swap HELP d-series pros needed!!!!
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swap HELP d-series pros needed!!!!
I have a 99 dx coupe and swaped a jdm d15b turbo and the swap came with everything except the harness. I kept my stock obd2 Dx harness and rewired some of the sensors with clips from a scrap EG. I wired injector clips from a talon for the DSM 450cc injectors and a resistor box from a EF. Im using a chipped p28 with a obd2b to obd1 conversion harness. The car does not start and if I crank the starter long enough the car will backfire. I checked for fuel pressure and there is, timing is good. I checked for spark and from what I can see only two of the cylinders have spark. I tried changing the plugs, wires, and the cap and still no start. The distributor does work because I drove the car with my motor before I bought the swap. I cant think of anything else. Please HELP me any input anyone may have will help. Thank you in advance.
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Re: swap HELP d-series pros needed!!!! (boost and bass)
Try changing the igniter, it's in the distributor.
If it's backfiring that means fuel fell into the downpipe - which means it's fueling fine (or good enough).
So the problem is definitely a spark, easy enough to check, so you say it only has 2, which means the igniter is good (scratch what I said up top).
So it has to be in the connection from the igniter to the cylinder. Power goes from the igniter, through the rotor, out the nodes in the cap, through the wires, to the spark plugs. You said you changed plugs, wires, cap, did you change the distributor rotor as well? The tip is probably worn on that, should be changed with the distributor cap.
If that's a yes, I'd say change the igniter anyways, it may only be working half the time or something (though I've never seen that happen).
If that's a no, change it, it's supposed to be changed with the distributor cap. It's like a 10 dollar part.
If it's backfiring that means fuel fell into the downpipe - which means it's fueling fine (or good enough).
So the problem is definitely a spark, easy enough to check, so you say it only has 2, which means the igniter is good (scratch what I said up top).
So it has to be in the connection from the igniter to the cylinder. Power goes from the igniter, through the rotor, out the nodes in the cap, through the wires, to the spark plugs. You said you changed plugs, wires, cap, did you change the distributor rotor as well? The tip is probably worn on that, should be changed with the distributor cap.
If that's a yes, I'd say change the igniter anyways, it may only be working half the time or something (though I've never seen that happen).
If that's a no, change it, it's supposed to be changed with the distributor cap. It's like a 10 dollar part.
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I used the nicest of the two rotors from both my distributors and i checked for spark several times and it seems the first time I only had spark in cylinder two then in two and four so maybe its not catching every time
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Re: (boost and bass)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boost and bass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the nicest of the two rotors from both my distributors and i checked for spark several times and it seems the first time I only had spark in cylinder two then in two and four so maybe its not catching every time </TD></TR></TABLE>
Try the "not nice" rotor, or buy a new one, they're not expensive or anything, and it very well could be the cause of the problem.
While the problem could also be a bad connection to the igniter or something, causing it to fire intermittently, the problem is most likely in the rotor or cap if it's not firing on certain cylinders, so change the rotor, buy a new one or something to go with ur new cap.
Try the "not nice" rotor, or buy a new one, they're not expensive or anything, and it very well could be the cause of the problem.
While the problem could also be a bad connection to the igniter or something, causing it to fire intermittently, the problem is most likely in the rotor or cap if it's not firing on certain cylinders, so change the rotor, buy a new one or something to go with ur new cap.
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seems to have compresion when i crank I could try a compresiion test but i dont think thats the problem. could it be that the resistor box is wired incorectly? I took the 4 yellow/black wires from the injectors wired them each to one of the black wires from the box then the one red wire i split 4 ways and back to the yellow/black wires from what i know this is correct
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