suspension doing it right from the start
 

I just got a 96 dx coupe that I want to do full suspension and brake upgrade, but don't want to get stuff I don't need or stuff I might regret afterward.
what would be the best route to get front ,and rear sway bars, rear disc brakes, coilovers and full urethane bushings on this swaybarless drum ridden lump

Re: suspension doing it right from the start (gtlaw1)
 

Sway bars and strut bars will help a lot with your bodyroll. And they are the easiest things to install. Sway bars may be difficult if you don't have the mounting points already. Not sure if the dx has them or not. As far a poly bushings go, they are nice but if you do that and springs/shocks, you will have a rough ride. You will feel every bump in the road. If this doesn't bother you then it's not a bad idea. However I still have stock bushings on my car and it handles just fine, and is still comfortable to ride in even with full suspension and chasis mods. If you do a nice set of springs/shocks or coilovers, front and rear sway and strut-tower bars you will feel a very big difference in your ride. After that, you can do lower tie bars, frame-locks, and some nice grippy tires. As far as brakes go a rear disk upgrade would be good. If you upgrade the front to bigger rotors you may have to get bigger rims if you don't already have some. I think most front upgrades require at least 16inch rims. If you don't want to size up the front rotors, just upgrading to cross drilled or slotted rotors with some nice pads will help you out a ot and get rid of a lot of brake fade. Steel braided lines are good to.

Re: suspension doing it right from the start (PhantomLord)
 

easiest cheapest way to do it imho is junkyard an integra, swap the rear discs in grab the sway bar, while you're in there get w/e suspension you like better koni blue's with w/e spring you want. or kyb agx's with w/e spring you want. strut bars, stainless steel brake lines, 15/16 master cylinder 91 ex sedan, asr subframe brace, and thats where id stop with a daily maybe a few things up front like bigger sway,


if you want to go crazy oem style, upgrade calipers to NSX or legend base model calipers both are a 2 piston deighn, and i forget what brake rotors bolt up to stock but are bigger ill find out in a few


haha i love these honda cars becuase you can just swap just about anything in their lineup into a 2000 dollar car and make it haual ass, stop better than anything else on the lot https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

If you're doing full urethane bushings, don't use the aftermarket tie rod ends, rear trailing arm bushings, or the ball joints.

Also, your car will be down for at least a couple of days with having to cut out all the old bushings and press in the new ones.

As for swaybars, the easiest option for a front bar is getting an Integra Type R bar with front LCA's. It'll bolt right up, and should cost you less than $150.

For the rear, there's many fine aftermarket and OEM bars to choose from. I do recommend getting an ASR or KTeller subframe brace for anything 19mm or greater. 96-00 Civics are very prone to subframe tearout. It's not a cheap fix, or an easy one, let me tell you.

As far as shocks and springs, I highly recommend either Tokico Illuminas or Koni Yellows coupled with a good sport spring such as H&R Sports, Neuspeed Sports, or Eibach Sportline. If you want a little stiffer rate and height adjustability, get Ground Control sleeve coilovers.

For strut bars, get a nice solid 3-point for the front. For the rear, there's a couple good options. I really like the EM Racing setup, because you can triangulate your entire hatch.

C-Pillar
Rear Strut Tower
Triangulation Between the two.
Trunk Floor Bar, with triangulating bar to the strut tower bar.

http://www.emracing.com/products/tp06.jpg

The best part of the EM Racing bars is that they're quick release. If you need to carry passengers, or cargo, you can unhook your bars in a matter of seconds.

Re: (Eran)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're doing full urethane bushings, don't use the aftermarket tie rod ends, rear trailing arm bushings, or the ball joints.

Also, your car will be down for at least a couple of days with having to cut out all the old bushings and press in the new ones.

As for swaybars, the easiest option for a front bar is getting an Integra Type R bar with front LCA's. It'll bolt right up, and should cost you less than $150.

For the rear, there's many fine aftermarket and OEM bars to choose from. I do recommend getting an ASR or KTeller subframe brace for anything 19mm or greater. 96-00 Civics are very prone to subframe tearout. It's not a cheap fix, or an easy one, let me tell you.

As far as shocks and springs, I highly recommend either Tokico Illuminas or Koni Yellows coupled with a good sport spring such as H&R Sports, Neuspeed Sports, or Eibach Sportline. If you want a little stiffer rate and height adjustability, get Ground Control sleeve coilovers.

For strut bars, get a nice solid 3-point for the front. For the rear, there's a couple good options. I really like the EM Racing setup, because you can triangulate your entire hatch.

C-Pillar
Rear Strut Tower
Triangulation Between the two.
Trunk Floor Bar, with triangulating bar to the strut tower bar.

http://www.emracing.com/products/tp06.jpg

The best part of the EM Racing bars is that they're quick release. If you need to carry passengers, or cargo, you can unhook your bars in a matter of seconds.

</TD></TR></TABLE>what is subframe tearout?

Re: (jewpont)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewpont &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is subframe tearout?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look under the rear of your car. You'll see two arms connected to the shock forks and brake hubs.

They also connect to what's called a subframe. It's the odd piece of metal that hangs down from your chassis that the lower control arm pivots from.

Subframe tearout is when you rip that metal.

Re: (Eran)
 

Swaybar + No re-enforcement on a stock subframe = GFG

Re: (95ProjectEJ1)
 

stock ls/gs/rs integra swaybar + no reinforcement bar= fine

Re: (Team RS2)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team RS2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock ls/gs/rs integra swaybar + no reinforcement bar= fine </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true. 14mm is nothing to worry about.

Re: (Eran)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team RS2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock ls/gs/rs integra swaybar + no reinforcement bar= fine </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Very true. 14mm is nothing to worry about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info, thank you for the clarification. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

Re: (Eran)
 

why not the rear trailing arm bushings??

for the rear bar your assuming I did the rear brake conversion and now have mounting points for the links right? or is there some other way to do it? I seen suspension techniques has a kit for civics that don't come with a front bar how does that work?

do you have any experience with road magnets springs I hear from se-r guys they are supposed to be great and they have civics on sale for $169