kay_animation

1- Is it better to drive at high or low rpm's? Gas wise and engine health wise?
(I always drive around 2-3Krpms and usually shift around 3-4Krpms)

2- If your driving and somebody in front of you keeps slowing down a little, is it better to brake while still in gear or should you take it out of gear, brake a little, then put it back in gear to keep driving? (I mean just slowing down like 5mph at a time, not just completely stopping)

3- I'm driving a stock d16y7 for now, (hopfully a b series soon), and I think the redline is like 6.5 or 7K rpms. Is it bad to overshoot red line? (not a lot but its hard to shift at 6.5K exactly, usually at 6.6 or 6.7 is when I actually leave the gear. (I know that when you completely rev too high, the engine will cut off, and thats never happened to me, so I'm not overshooting a lot..)

4- Is it bad to just slam into the next gear while driving hard and make the car like jerk forward hard? I mean for the transmission of course.

5- When you want to start moving when your at 0 mph, should you give it a little more gas then it needs to grab the clutch right or can you just give it just what it needs and then just let the clutch catch slowly? ( usually do the second option) I guess I'm trying to say clutch wise cause I know this can't hurt the engine right?

6- Does my car have some gear limiter on it or something? It seems like when I'm shifting, the car wan't let me get in a gear that too high or too low. I have to force the shifter in a little harder than normal.

7- Why the hell can't I shift in reverse if I'm rolling backwards already? I understand that you shouldn't be able to shift in reverse rolling forward, but like when I'm in my driveway, I just like to let the car roll down the driveway in nutral cause its kinda steep, but then I may roll into the street in reverse, and come to a stop from momentum, but still need to use the engine to go in reverse, then I have to come to a complete stop, go in reverse, then reverse. Kinda anoying. Or I'll forget and try to shift in reverse while I'm rolling backward and here that gear grinding sound and it won't let me get in.

8- are topspeed tests bad for the engine? I say this cause you end up in 5th gear with a full open throttle in the end. Does this hurt the engine to be on full open throttle so long?

9- as far as rpm's go, do you use the same engine work at the same rpm nomatter what the mph is? For example, is driving in 2nd gear at 3k rpm's the same work for the engine as driving in 5th gear at 3k rpm's?

Thats all for now but I'm sure I will come up with some soon.

I only owned my furst mt car for .5 years but I already know a lot about them from this short time. In this time, I have already complete slipped an oem clutch and ended up going with a exedy organic clutch so I guess I'm just trying to figure out if I'm not driving correctly and thats whey the oem one went out. I know that when I slipped it, it was right after I installed my spoon ehaust and I was trying to do a decent launch and run with it on for the first time. I just reved it up to like 3K rpm's, droped it in 1st, punched the gas, and watched the rpm's rise fast while the car when forward very slow. I don't want to break another one cause I'm not driving right, so thats why I have the questions.

redlinetuning

yeah dude. talkaabout stupid questions.. learn to drive.

edit: I'm editing my post becuase I can only make 5 posts per 24hrs..

besides.. just becuase i'm a trial user doens't mean i don't know anything. one more thing.. get to the point!


Modified by redlinetuning at 2:05 PM 1/2/2004

kay_animation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlinetuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah dude. talkaabout stupid questions.. learn to drive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought I was just undereducated, but thanks, now I feel kinda stupid too

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlinetuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah dude. talkaabout stupid questions.. learn to drive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

eeh from a trial user...

westsidejdmyo

1 you're fine how you are, 2 leave it in gear, 3 you'll be fine, even hitting the stock limiter won't damage anything, things just wear quicker, 4 try and be smooth, no slamming, 5 less clutch slippage = less wear, 6 it should shift fine into the next gear at redline, don't chnage down at redline, you'll probably float the valves, 7 put in reverse from a standstill, no syncromesh on reverse 8, no but it'll wear out quicker so keep up the maintainence to reduce the effect and watch the temp, 9 no depends on the throttle position 5th gear crusing at 3k rpm requires not much work whilst accelerating at this speed does.

btw..its not like the questions he's asked are that obvious to a lot of people, so give him a break man..they're good questions..

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDMDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

eeh from a trial user... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice another worthless post...keep up the good work

1. Low RPM's. You want to press in the gas pedal as least as possible...you dont wanna drive too low cuz then you'll have to shut the pedal in. Shifting between 3 and 4 is fine, and keeping your cruising revs around 2.5 is good...

2. NEVER brake in gear. Always push the clutch in with your brake...braking in gear is bad beacuse if you get too low in the revs you can stall out

3. Not really. As long as you don't stay there. Shifting at redline in 3rd to 2nd and manually revving the car to 10 grand will kill it. But if you're accelerating and you pass the redline...dont worry about it.

4. No...it will just destroy your ISB over time (like mine). I am violent with my clutch because it has 160,000 miles and the rougher you let it out...the less friction material you use up...problem is this destroys your tranny over time.

5. Put the pedal in a bit and give it like 1000-1500 revs and let the clutch out slowly...not moving the gas at all...once you have released the clutch COMPLETELY give it more gass.

6. That means you need better transmission fluid. Try GM Synchromesh friction modified part # 12377916 from the chevy dealer.

7. Reverse isnt synchronized...you need to be not moving...and you need to throw it into one of the forward gears first before you put it into reverse.

8. No worse than acceleration runs...but why would you be topping out a Y7? 4th ends at like 115...you have NO reason to be going that fast.

9. Yes...all the engine does is rev...the amount of work it does is proportionate to the revs its in. Each of the gears puts the power to the ground in a different way.


Dont slip the clutch. Dont even be easy with it...be easy with it when you start but try to shift quick when you're driving...and let the clutch out fairly quickly (i'm not talking like racing shifts but make sure the car doesnt rev up when you're shifting)

Mike_C

Low RPMs = motor doing less stuff, it's better.

Leave it in gear.

Stock redlines are made conservatively. It is safe to be revving 1-200rpms past what your motor is rated for but I certainly wouldn't make it a point to do so often. There is no reason to be redlining on the street anyway.

By not matching RPMs properly you are putting strain on your syncros, this is what causes the "lurching." While it is not a great thing, it is sorta what they are made for.

I'm not 100% sure what you're saying but riding the clutch longer (2nd option I think) will just wear it out more quickly. However, both methods seem perfectly alright.

Don't force your shifter to do anything. If it doesn't want to downshift it means your RPMs are not matched very well, this will put a great strain on your syncros. Blip the throttle and it will slide in much more nicely.

Not 100% sure but I believe the reverse syncro isn't much of a syncro at all. I think you have to be at a complete stop to get in to reverse.

Shouldn't hurt anything other than those people that you hit when you're no longer in control of the vehicle.

I'm pretty sure, that's the reason at 4k rpm in 3rd gear I wouldn't get nearly the same mileage as 4k rpm in 5th gear.

I'm at work and just answering to the best of my knowledge, I don't claim to be 100% correct.

ProEater

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlinetuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah dude. talkaabout stupid questions.. learn to drive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i hate you.

westsidejdmyo

lol..disagree with your point 2 bauley, you should always leave it in gear when you brake and change according to the revs unless of course you are about to stop in which case clutch down obviously..point 9 when cruising all the engine has to do to stay at 3k rpm is compenstate for internal frictional losses and do work against drag, if you floor it a 3k it will use more fuel and start to accelerate, lower rpm doesn't always mean lower fuel consumtion..3k in 5th will use much more fuel than 3k in fourth due to increased drag on the car

Civiclx

for being brave asking questions on ht
to the noob (<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlinetuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah dude. talkaabout stupid questions.. learn to drive. </TD></TR></TABLE>)

Civiclx

for being brave asking questions on ht
to the noob (<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlinetuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah dude. talkaabout stupid questions.. learn to drive. </TD></TR></TABLE>)

jdmkevin

iTrader: (1)

Wow, lots of questions...anyway where to start?

1. your driving speed and shift speed is good. Gas wise, I'd say keep it between 2K-4K. Engine wise, pretty much anything goes, I mean use common sense...don't cruise at 6K for half an hour or anything like that, but keepin' it below 4K on the highway is probably the safest.

2. I'd say it doesn't really matter. Sometimes it's easier to leave it in gear and let the engine slow you down. But as for downshifting (coming to a stop, etc.), save it for the track, It's a lot cheaper to replace brakes than it is to replace a clutch.

3. On my D16, redline was 6.7K...i think. And overshooting it won't hurt it every once in a while. Honda tachs are notorious for being a little inaccurate anyways, so if your "shifting" at 6.7K your really shifting at like 6.5K or something like that. Or at least that was the case on mine.

4. "slamming" it is not as bad for the transmission as it is for the clutch. Like most other things, every once in a while won't hurt.

5. I guess just give it as much gas is necessary. Too much wastes gas and could wear out the clutch a little more.

6. There is no "gear limiter", if your car is older...perhaps an EG, with a lotta miles on her, than maybe your synchros are starting to go bad, or it could be as little as needing a tranny fluid change.

7. I'm not sure, but I know why it won't let you, but your not alone, mine did the same thing...I guess your just have to accept it.

8. Topspeed tests aren't bad for the engine as long as when you reach it then back off, don't cruise at 120+ or anything like that. ...Oh yea, and they're dangerous as hell!!

9. Absolutely, if its turning 2K rpm's, then that's how much "work" it's doing, no matter what gear your in.

Pheeewww ...hope that helps

Good ol' Screwtape

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. NEVER brake in gear. Always push the clutch in with your brake...braking in gear is bad beacuse if you get too low in the revs you can stall out
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think question/answer 2 is controversial. I mean, some people, for example when having to a little abruptly at a red light from a 35mph like to just disengage the clutch and press the brakes; Meanwhile other people like to downshift, heel-n-toe or not, to let the tranny assist in the stopping as to reduce stress on the brakes. Or, while crusing at 75mph on the freeway and you see a cop, some people would disengage the clutch and brake, while other people would simply let off the gas and let it slow itself down in gear.

*shrug*
Either way is ok, I suppose, as long as everything is done smoothly...i.e. downshifts while slowing down. But if you think about the choice between using the brakes to stop the car, or using the tranny/engine to assist speed reduction...Which one would you rather fix/replace/maintain? Brakes of course. I'd rather fade my brakes more often than mess with my clutch more often.

But then there's different answers to that 2nd question depending on speed. For example...cruising in nuetral at extremely high speeds can starve the gearbox for oil. bligGiTy BlooH blaH!

Dunno what I'm talking about.
Still drunk.

sinatra

1.) low rpms =less wear high rpms = high wear (Think of it like running or walking, which would you rather do all day?)

2.) It depends on how long you want to be out of gear. If you are sitting at a light go out of gear, foot off the clutch. If you are doig the stop and go thing just disengage the clutch and brake.

3.) Ok your stock tach is off thankfully (all hondas are to some degree) shiift at around 6k. Trust me I don't believe your stock d16y7 is making power consistently through 6500 rpms.

4.) Yes, from the awesome power of the d16 you could break and axle, k J/king. Seriously though it can be a bad habit when you do get power because you can break driveline parts by shifting very hard.

5.) Ok for this you can do what i did to teach my GF how to drive a clutch. Go to a cleared out parking lot on Sunday or something. Then practice stopping and going in 1st gear. Find the rpm range that just gets it going and you aren't making the car go, "reeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnn" you know the sound

6.) Could just be an older tranny.

7.) Hondas are notorious for having trouble going into reverse. First off, stop when trying to go into reverse. Secondly, when you are having trouble going into reverse put it into 1st gear first then go into reverse. I am not going to go into the explanation for this I just know it works, if you want it PM me.

8.) How long can you run at a full out open wide sprint? Would you eventually pass out if you couldn't stop when you had to? This is what is happening to your car at topseed tests.

9.) Yes

Basically you can drive as mean or as nice as you want, these are just things I do especially since I just got done driving for clutch and motor break in. I have just kinda gotten used to it.

westsidejdmyo

yeah that's true...although if you choose the right time to downshift there is very little wear on the clutch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R_EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think question/answer 2 is controversial. I mean, some people, for example when having to a little abruptly at a red light from a 35mph like to just disengage the clutch and press the brakes; Meanwhile other people like to downshift, heel-n-toe or not, to let the tranny assist in the stopping as to reduce stress on the brakes. Or, while crusing at 75mph on the freeway and you see a cop, some people would disengage the clutch and brake, while other people would simply let off the gas and let it slow itself down in gear.

*shrug*
Either way is ok, I suppose, as long as everything is done smoothly...i.e. downshifts while slowing down. But if you think about the choice between using the brakes to stop the car, or using the tranny/engine to assist speed reduction...Which one would you rather fix/replace/maintain? Brakes of course. I'd rather fade my brakes more often than mess with my clutch more often.

But then there's different answers to that 2nd question depending on speed. For example...cruising in nuetral at extremely high speeds can starve the gearbox for oil. bligGiTy BlooH blaH!

Still drunk. </TD></TR></TABLE>

westsidejdmyo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinatra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

8.) How long can you run at a full out open wide sprint? Would you eventually pass out if you couldn't stop when you had to? This is what is happening to your car at topseed tests.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

good analargy but its not like that, my car ran for 20 minutes at 7000rpm and is a stock d series, no problem at all, just wears things out quicker

kay_animation

Well, thanks a lot you guys. These are questions that I had not to drive better but to make my engine and transmission last a little longer. I am getting to the point where I just want to mature with my thoughts and concepts about automobiles and its scary but I'm starting to understand my mom about some of the stuff I did to previous cars I had (modding wise) so I am to the point where I just want to use my civic to learn how to drive the best I can and as a learning tool rather than trying to mod it for speed or anything. But you guys have helped me out a lot.

I especially thank people for actually answereing the questions though some of them were kinda simple and thanks for not slaughtering a person asking such questions after driving a manual for almost a year coming July.

I guess I'm just kinda understanding a lot of older people who I talk to who say why buy a cheaper car and spend a lot of money modding it to compete with present cars when you can just shop around for a car that you fully like from the dealership. I also have a close friend who always makes me think about what I am doing to my civic with his questions, like his first question would be how the interior is arranged and what features like seat warmers does it have before he even wants to car about how much HP the car has. But I'm ranting about off topic stuff now...

Well, again, thanks all for helping out me who I though would be driving an automatic forever till the hatch came along

kay_animation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R_EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But then there's different answers to that 2nd question depending on speed. For example...cruising in nuetral at extremely high speeds can starve the gearbox for oil. bligGiTy BlooH blaH!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't know that, I cruise in nuetral coming down big hills because I thought it would help by saving some gas and some engine work, but I guess thats not right then.

Chris y0!

no fuel is injected into the motor without your foot on the gas. roll down a hill at redline and you wont use any gas.

best thing to do is just push in the clutch, though.

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no fuel is injected into the motor without your foot on the gas.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no fuel is injected into the motor without your foot on the gas. roll down a hill at redline and you wont use any gas.

best thing to do is just push in the clutch, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how does your car idle then numb nuts?


Do you keep your foot on the gas at every stop light also?? I doubt that.

There is always fuel being injected into the engine, but when the throttle is closed, enough fuel is being dumped in to keep the car at idle at 750 rpm....but not at 7k rpm

kay_animation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinatra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5.) Ok for this you can do what i did to teach my GF how to drive a clutch. Go to a cleared out parking lot on Sunday or something. Then practice stopping and going in 1st gear. Find the rpm range that just gets it going and you aren't making the car go, "reeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnn" you know the sound
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha ha, I'm not that bad. I'm been driving the car at least once every day in the .5 years I had it, so I pretty much have basic driving down. I guess most of this stuff is just things that I was worrying may be hurting the car. But you did help me a lot.

I guess with question 5, I was just asking because I drive with some people who when the light turns green, kinda rev to like 1.5 or 2K rpm's then let the clutch out slowly and take off which is good when I first started and didn't know the play between the gas and clutch, but now I fully know the play and can just gas and clutch to the spot in an instant and just take off hard in an instant without doing it slowly any more, and I was just wondering it this like launching but slower speed and therefore wearing the clutch or should I ease it every time like I did when I first learned?

kay_animation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the neutral comment. HA HA, I thought this picture was for me I was like dam, my simple questions don't get a break

Chris y0!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how does your car idle then numb nuts?


Do you keep your foot on the gas at every stop light also?? I doubt that.

There is always fuel being injected into the engine, but when the throttle is closed, enough fuel is being dumped in to keep the car at idle at 750 rpm....but not at 7k rpm</TD></TR></TABLE>

you know what i mean

KiDSoL

Thanks for asking these i never had the ***** to ask because i figured id be flamed all to hell, ive had mine as long as you cept i had mine converted to a 5 speed. So i kinda had to adjust right away and it was my first 5 speeed.....