B17SolRide

I just got my del sol tuned at a local shop. I brought the car there to get tuned because I changed out the throttle body and intake manifold. After I got the car back from the shop it ran the best it has ever ran. I drove the car for an hour so then I got gas and drove for another half hour or so. I parked the car for ten minutes and when to start it back up and got the same clicking noise numerous times. To my knowledge this was the starter solenoid. However after trying and trying the car tried cranking over but wouldn't start without pressing the gas pedal down. The car started and ran extremely rough and couldn't even hold an idle. If I let go off the gas the car RPM would drop straight down and die. I called the guy that tuned the car and he said it sounds like it could be the MAP sensor wiring. I had a passenger in the car and my ecu and underhood fusebox is down in the passenger footwell. I'm thinking maybe he kicked something or there is a break in one of the MAP wires. I am going to test the MAP wires for continuity when I get the chance. Any other suggestions on what may have happened or what to test for? Seems really bizarre that my car went from running flawlessly to barely running and starting. Also when it did start it smelled as if it was running rich. Suggestions?

tony_2018

Full detail on your cars setup.

JohnSamTest

bad gas

B17SolRide

I have a B17A1 All motor. Had a turbo about 4 years ago. Still have turbo cams, pistons, valve springs, retainers, darton sleeves.
Aem V2 Intake
Skunk2 70mm Throttle Body
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 Fuel Rail
750cc Rc Injectors
P30 Hondata ECU
Walboro 255 lph fuel pump
Bisimoto Header to Greddy Exhaust

Any other parts you are asking for in particular?

Didn't even think about bad gas.. You make a good point though since I did get gas just before that.. It was running fine after I got gas though for about a half hour until I shut it off.

tony_2018

Wiring.

B17SolRide

My wiring is all OBD1. Engine harness is a B series Chasebays Harness. Only other alterations to wiring was I relocated my underhood fusebox to the passenger footwell about a year ago. Also just recently installed a hondata map sensor before the tune when I installed the throttle body. Feels almost as if my hondata totally dropped the tune or went into some kind of limp mode.

tony_2018

If you give it gas while starting does it stay running?

B17SolRide

It will not hold any type of idle and dies without giving it gas. Smells like it is running rich too. The car will not start without pressing the gas pedal either.

tony_2018

Check your tps, your map, your distributor.

B17SolRide

Thank you I will check those Sunday when I get the chance. I will check for continuity in the wires from map and tps plug and distributor to the ecu. Also I will check data on my hondata for tps and map sensor. I will also check for spark on all four cylinders. Any other suggestions on what to check for? I appreciate the help and info!

tony_2018

Start with that first. No point in doing multiple things and not knowing whats doing what.

B17SolRide

Well it's been a little while but I finally got to work on my car yesterday. I checked my plugs and they were wet with fuel. I replaced the plugs and tried starting the car and it was still refusing to start. It would turn over but still wouldn't start without pressing the gas. Next I checked my main relay and the circuit on it was burnt pretty bad so I replaced that as well. Still had the same issue after replacing that. Next I did a compression test on the cylinders. I also noticed that my brand new plugs that I pulled back out for the test already had some fuel on them.

Cylinder 1-180
Cylinder 2- 0
Cylinder 3-180
Cylinder 4-200

Next I did a wet compression test on cylinder 2 but still got 0.

I talked to somebody about this and he said one of my injectors could be stuck open causing no compression. I also know this could be a valve issue with no compression in one single cylinder.

I'm assuming I should check and make sure my injectors are fully functional next. Any other ideas?

B17SolRide

Okay so here is an unfortunate update on my current situation..

I did a cylinder leak down test on my dead cylinder..

After applying the air to the # 2 cylinder I got air shooting out of my intake manifold and it was a very significant leak. My applied psi was about 90 psi and my holding psi was down to about 15 psi on the other gauge. To my knowledge and from what I read this means faulty intake valves. However, I also read that the valves can just be stuck open..

My questions are:

How do I know if my valves are actually bent or stuck open? Borescope it?
Also, if my valve is stuck open how do I fix this?
If my valve is bent do I replace all of the valves or just the faulty one or two on cylinder two?
Is there anything else I could do while I'm in the engine that may need to be done? ETC. headgasket?

Thank you for your time!

tony_2018

Valve stuck open could either be carbon build up is keeping it from closing,

B17SolRide

Okay so I was able to get some work done during this past week. Out of frustration of my borescope I ordering not getting me anywhere I started taking the header and intake manifold off the head. I took the intake manifold off and looked into the number two cylinder part and finally found my problem. I had a screw wedged in between the valve and the seat. SOmehow this screw must have fell in there when I changed out my intake manifold. Either way I got the screw out but my compression still isn't looking very promising. I was able to crank the engine by hand but got a very small amount of pressure built up. Unfortunately my battery needed to be charged so I will try another compression test Sunday using the car crank. My question now is can I just get away with getting an angle job on this one valve or should I just got through and do all valves at the same time?

Thank you