DroppedEJ6

My buddy has a stock d15 auto , ran into a problem with it over the week.

It runs drives good throws no check lights but heres the prblem

going down the road or sitting warming up it will just shut off but not like a stall like some one just turns the key to off him and it happens randomly can be 5 minutes or 2 hours, any advise

---- has new battery , & alternator ------

ih8speedbumps

I had this happen to me before, after replacing my battery, alternator, and starter.

I was stumped, brought it to a local shop, they diagnosed a bad distributer, replaced it for about $120, and bam, issue was solved.

I can't guarantee anything, but after replacing it my issue was resolved.

Good luck.

B_Swapped93

Coil or igniter....which are inside the distributer.

DroppedEJ6

Thank you guys ill help him change it out and post if it works or not

Former User

?

Why the heck would you replace anything before doing some basic no-start diagnostic tests?

DroppedEJ6

i started with the fuse's then scanned it with my obd2 reader and then did a live feed everything looks and feels normal . i took the cap off and the rotor was completely warn out so we replaced that car ran for 30 minutes and i drove it for an hour no problems. i sent him on his way and i went home he called me with in 15 minutes said the car had died

Shogun_35

Yeah HT let's get this figured out. I have the same problem with my 94 civic coupe. Its 5spd vtec. I replaced the coil and main relay. Still doing it.I wouldn't think it would be the ignitor because it still runs. I also wouldn't I think it would be the ignition switch because all the lights and everything is still on when the car dies. I checked all the grounds in the engine bay and also looked for loose wires as well. Dropped ej6 Iwill post any new findings asap. Everyone else with any info on this please respond. Thanks.

Former User

Stop randomly replacing parts and start doing some basic no-start diagnostics.

Shogun_35

Sure bud. So if it start fine, and starts right back up when it dies, is that basic no start diag.

Former User

CEL codes?

Has AutoZone tested the igniter unit?

Why would you conclude this^?

Shogun_35

If the igniter is faulty. I didn't think it would run. No spark. But I'm wondering now if it could be intermittent. I'm looking for a old dizzy right now.

Former User

Yes^. Have it tested.

Shogun_35

If the igniter is faulty. I didn't think it would run. No spark. But I'm wondering now if it could be intermittent. I'm looking for a old dizzy right now. also I have not had it tested. Figured it would be go or no go.

Former User

Not necessarily

Shogun_35

Sorry. Cell phone posts never turn out good.

Shogun_35

What about dropped ej6. Replaced whole dizzy. I understand we may have separate issues. Im looking into igniter issue now. May take some time.

Former User

This^

..and the OP can/should do no-start diagnostics because his engine does not always restart after stalling.

Shogun_35

Ok. I won't lie. Never dealt with a bad honda igniter. Just called AutoZone and they said it'll be good or bad. In my case, with it working then not working, will their test pick this up?

Former User

Wrong. I find that most of what AutoZone employees say should not be taken as fact.

Intermittent problems are always the trickiest to sort out, but you should have the igniter unit tested anyway. If it fails, buy a new one. If it passes, it still could be bad. In the latter case, consider buying a new one anyway. Then install to see whether the problem is fixed. Return for a refund if the problem remains.

Shogun_35

so I pulled a old ignitor out of an old distributor that I had lying around the car started fine and I drove into town to have the old ignitor tested it was fine. I drove back which was about 16 miles round trip and the car has been running solid for 40 minutes no issues. I will post if there is a reoccuring issue. thank you Ron J for applying pressure to the situation. why can't electrical issues be more straight Forward. to droppedej6 I think we have separate problems. I do know that Honda had a recall on does ignition switches a tell tale sign would be all your dash lights and everything completely stop working as the car dies if you have an update on your situation maybe we can help your problem

DroppedEJ6

so all the lights stay light , once it stalls out the check engine light comes on and the battery light comes on . but they dont dime or flicker or go out it just stops running but it doesnt always start right away , so it kind of sounds like the same problem as Shogun 35 ill have the ignitor tested tomorrow

Thanks guys

Former User

Does the CEL stay on? If so, pull the code(s).

And do basic diagnostics when the engine won't restart - spark and fuel pump priming.

DroppedEJ6

no once you turn the key off and go to start it no CEL and no codes, fuel pump is good and i haven't been able to test the spark for him because like i said the car stays running for me but im going to stay there intill it stalls tomorrow so ill test the spark

Former User

Before you turn the key off, is the CEL on steady? Whenever the CEL stays on steady, a trouble code has been thrown.

This^ isn't the specific question.

When the engine won't start, does the fuel pump prime when the key is turned from off to ON(II)?

Yes, check for spark when the engine won't start. Spark should be bright white at all 4 plugs.

Shogun_35

Droppedej6, you said you pulled the cap off and the rotor was worn out. So did you replace the rotor or the dizzy. Also remember i tested my ignitor and it was "good". As RonJ and I discussed. Electrical components are not always good or just bad. I am fortunate enough to have 20yrs of honda parts lying around so I was able to just try another one. So if the test is good, dont assume that the component is good.