brian1121

I have a 1995 honda civic ex. I replaced the motor a week ago. Had a d16z6. I put the sane motor back in. I was driving the car and it just shut off. I found the wires leading to the map sensor burnt a lil. I replaced them along with the back up ecu fuse. Which is a. 7.5 amp fuse. Tried to start it back and it wouldnt start. I replaced the plugs. Now it will start but when i rev it the car bogs down. Ive checked tps with my multi meter. With throttle closed im getting 0.83. Open throttle im getting 5.23. Which is higher than what the spec is in the manual. I can slowly rev the car and it will rev all the way up. Im not getting and skip when i hold it steady. No cel No vacuum leaks Any ideas on what it could be.

fragmare

Did you perform a sweep test on your TPS? Stick a t-pin on the signal wire of the TPS and measure the voltage while opening the throttle very slowly (i mean VERY slowly, i'm assuming you're using a digital multimeter). You should see the voltage increase from ~1v to ~5v with every refresh of your multimeter. If it goes down or hits zero, you've got a dead spot in your TPS and it needs replaced.

Also, you said the MAP sensor wires got burnt. Have you tested the MAP sensor itself to make sure it's okay? You can run a similar sweep test on it with a multimeter if you have a small handheld vacuum pump (the same kind you can use to bleed brakes. they're fairly cheap at Harbor Freight). How did the wires get burnt in the first place? Any ideas on that?

brian1121

I was able to test the map sensor also i done this while the car was running i was getting 5v on the map sensor. Also i checked the tps opening very slow. Got the 5v that i should have when it was all the way open Never lost volts or decreased while opening. I had a tps and map sensor on my old intake off the other motor. I put them on and still got the same results.

As for the wires being burnt. Im assuming they were laying to close to the intake and got hot. I put them in a wire sleeve this time. Ive had a couple of people telling me its a bad computer. Ive also pulled the plugs to check them and there black. Not from oil but looks like carbon build up. Im kind of leaning for a short in a wire somewhere. Also am going to get the correct fitting and check fuel pressure to see if its dropping as i rev it up. The last option that i can come up with it to swap my intake mani out. But i dont see that being the issue. Anything else i can try or something to look for

fragmare

Your carbon fouled plugs would explain your stumbling, but there are a number of things that could be behind your plugs getting fouled like that... all of which point to your fuel mix being too rich. How many miles does your o2 sensor have on it? They can go bad at any time.

There are a few ways to test the o2 sensor. The most thorough being with a digital scope, but I'm assuming you don't have one of those. Sometimes an o2 sensor will not be producing the full range of voltage like it should (from .1v to 1.0v). One thing you can do (in addition to the test procedures for it outlined in the Honda service manual), without having having a scoping multimeter, is remove the o2 sensor, and bench test it with a blow torch and a regular digital multimeter. Stick the o2 sensor in a bench vise or something so you don't burn the place down. Then hook up the positive test lead to the signal wire and ground out the other test lead. Then start heating up the sensor element with a blow torch. You should see the o2 sensor go through the full range of voltage all the way up to ~1v without any dead spots or stopping short (at .7v for example). Try to keep the torch the same distance from the element without moving it around much, so you can get an accurate and valid test.

Fliptard

if your map shorted, it probably burnt out. or maybe fried something inside the ECU, try a diff map sensor first, then a different ECU and see if anything happens.

brian1121

Already tried a different map sensor. I used the header on that came on the motor which came with the the o2 thats on the car now. I have my o2 thats still on my old header. Ill buy nee plugs and swap that sensor out and see what happens. That could possible be the problem since im getting no cel.

Before the car just shut off it was missing every so often. But ran fine early that morning b4 it died that night.

brian1121

So tonight i tried something off the wall with the car. I advanced the timing by turning the distributor. By turning the distributor all the way to the front. I then gave the car throttle and it revved just fine. I think this is just timing problem. Tomorrow night im going to pull the covers off and redo the timing. Im thinking its off by at least 4 teeth. Does this sound right.

fragmare

That's possible too. Check the mechanical timing. If it's off, replace the belt. Jumping teeth is a sign your belt is worn. Also make sure you have the correct belt for your engine. Some have more teeth than others. Iirc, there is 103 tooth belt and 106 tooth belt. Not sure which the D16Z6 takes off the top of my head, but verify.

brian1121

I counted 104 teeth. I also checked the cam and crank marks at there both top dead center. Now im wondering why the car will run good when the timing is advanced but wont rev when its perfect. I havent drove the car with it advanced yet. Will it do any damage if i drove it with the timing advanced just to see what it will run like?

fragmare

Yea, 104 teeth is correct for your D16Z6. If you're absolutely sure the timing is correct for your engine (7 o'clock mark on cam pulley should line up with the 7 o'clock mark on inner timing cover, 9 and 3 o'clock marks should be slightly offset counterclockwise in relation to the edges of the cylinder head), i'd start investigating other possibilities rather than simply advancing the dizzy to maximum. Something is fouling your plugs, and some diagnostic work will reveal what that something is. Personally, i'd start with the O2 sensor.

brian1121

Thats my goal tomorrow is to change the o2 out. Ive been working 12hrs and have had very little time to work on the car. I did take it out for a test drive lastnight. It ran good for about 20 mins. Then i felt it miss one time. So tomorrow its getting new plugs and new o2

fragmare

Little word of advice if you plan on removing the O2 sensor tomorrow... Hit it with some kind of penetrating spray (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Aero Kroil, pick your poison... there are a ton of brands out there now. I even saw one recently called 'Nuts Off' lol) and let it sit overnight. Then get one of those offset o2 sensor sockets (like this http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...nch-97177.html). Don't get the deep socket type... they're junk. Then go out there tomorrow, warm the car up, and attack it with a breaker bar. O2 sensors have a tendency to really get stuck in there, due to the heat they experience.

brian1121

I dont believe anything i was checking was the problem. I switched to a ngk v power plug tonight A little under 9 bucks spent. I drove the car for 30!mins and it ran good. No missing or stumbling.

Fliptard

even the slightest bad wire/plug will cause a way loss in power.

Hope it stays fixed

brian1121

I hope it stays fixed to. Its usually something simple every time. What i dont get is the plugs that i had in there looked as if they were burning good. At least its running now. Now if it would stop raining so i can drive it lol

fragmare

Didn't you say you already changed the plugs?

brian1121

Yes i did. I put in some denso plugs only because every auto parts store near me didn't have the ngk plugs i wanted. It was a 3 day wait on them. So i bought the denso plugs to try and ordered the ngk plugs. It seams as my honda is very picky and didn't like the denso plugs.

fragmare

Strange... Denso (aka Nippondenso) are literally the ONLY other plugs besides NGK that Honda recommends for their engines. Were they gapped correctly?

brian1121

Yes. They were gapped at 39. Then i regapped them to 41. Its real strange that it wouldn't run on them.

brian1121

So the plugs wasnt the problem. Last night while the car was idling it just shut off but would start right back. So today i decided to take a chance and drive it to work. Starts right up no problem. On the way to work it missed maybe 4 times and they were random at low rpms. I hammered on it a few times and didnt get any misses.

Dont know if this will work but can i take and buy a 3 pin to obd2 adapter and put my scope on it to see whats going on.

brian1121

So i found that my pcv could be bad. I found slug all in the line and at the intake mani. Also found the line was collapsed. If i am correct this is where i am getting my random misfire at my rough idle.