CanSi2g

I usually post on Superhonda but I'm not getting any response over there (don't know if anyone even goes there anymore) I haven't really had any issues with my 2000 SOHC vtec until now. I recently changed the cat for emission's test. I also changed o2 sensor's.

The part's guy only had two different brand o2's in stock. One NTK and one Bosch. The pre cat one is bosch post ntk. The car now drop's idle/rpm's when on throttle about 30 seconds after any start. When I'm on the throttle the rpm's just drop to allmost stalling then it kicks back in again and almost spins the wheels. After that it run's fine for the rest of the drive until I restart it again.

I've cleaned IAC and powered it to see if it moved I can hear it click back and forth (was dirty) changed PCV (couldn't hear it opening and closing) changed spark plugs, cleaned rotor and cap pickup's (had fair bit of oxidation on them)

Any other idea's other then the o2's possibly not coming up to operating temp or something? If it was TPS wouldn't it do it all the time? same with fuel related issue's?

CanSi2g

I should also mention that I'm not showing a code. I have also unhooked the battery to reset the ecu. The car also failed the etest after the new o2's and cat. I haven't tested it after all the rest of the work I've done. The idle also stay's at about 1300 after I've come to a stop at an intersection then drops to 1000 and stays a couple second's after.

Former User

Stock 00 Civic EX?

Is the ignition timing set to spec?

Have you cleaned the throttle body? Is the throttle cable adjusted too tightly? It should have as much as 1/2" of slack.

CanSi2g

It's a bolt on's car. I did clean the throttle body as well with degreaser and then blew it out with air in all the little hole's and what not. Is there a chance the gap on the distributor cap might be too wide now? I have never touch the timing on the car

Former User

If you want help, you'll need to give more detailed answers and to answer all questions.

CanSi2g

Ok well as far as bolt on's it means intake, pulley's, h22 throttle body, exhaust. I'm not sure how much more detail I can give the car's run great until i changed the cat and the o2's. I noticed the rear o2 bng is welded on about a 45 degree angle to the main pipe. I can't remember what the stock one looks like.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You still didn't answer ANY of these questions. This is going to take a while if you don't provide all the information that is asked for.

CanSi2g

Sorry but I did answer the throttle body question and I have never touched the timing. I don't know for sure if it's in spec as I don't have a timing gun. All I can say is that it should be cause I've never moved it. I was careful not to move anything when I pulled the dissy cap off.

Former User

Still no satisfactory answers to questions about throttle cable and ignition timing. By the way, you can rent a timing gun at some auto parts stores or pay $30 for a new one.

CanSi2g

What about the FPR? Any chance it's hanging up and restricting fuel flow until it get's to a certain psi? It only does this right after a startup. How would the throttle cable cause this? As well if the timing was off wouldn't it do it all the time? If I didn't mention it also drop's rev's while idling after the same amount of time.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

8 days and you have YET to answer EITHER of the questions about the throttle cable OR ignition timing.

CanSi2g

I will try to check both but IMO both of these thing's would affect the car all the time not just once after a restart. Unless the car is seing the wrong timing and then compensating for it in that case it's doing a good job.

Former User

Not necessarily.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I could say the same thing about an FPR.