sorta2

My last thread( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2173482 ) did not give me any results so I am trying again.

I still think that the problem is the ignition switch, like it says in the other thread when I turn the key to the I position nothing happens. No dash chime or lights come on, also the fuel pump does not prime. I checked the voltage to the ingnition switrch and one of the leads was hot all the time, one became hot when I turned the key to the II position, one I suspect is a ground and the other did not do anything. Does this sound right?




Modified by sorta2 at 10:28 AM 1/8/2008

mini-meEj1

have you also checked all your fuses? it does sound like something would be wrong with the ignition
if you not getting anything while turning the key. have you also checked the main relay?

sorta2

checked the main relay it is fine. All the fuses are fine just checked them again, all of them this time.


Modified by sorta2 at 5:27 PM 1/7/2008

mini-meEj1

yea it sounds like it is coming from the ignition harness

sorta2

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Modified by sorta2 at 10:32 AM 1/8/2008

sorta2

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gsrhatch2356

Well I tried to look it up on alldata but did not see any good pics. but there is no ground on the switch. think about what happens when you turn the switch, one should have voltage all the time and when you turn it to the first posistion it will supply voltage to acc so now you have 2 wires with 12v then the third pos. is where you supply voltage to comp, cluster, chime (if it has one, I just say that cause I dont know what car it is and mine dosent chime but most cars do when you get to the second pos.) so now you should have 3 wires with 12v. then as you go to start it the 3rd pos where it kicks back you should be giving voltage to one other wire and the others will drop voltage untill you let off from third pos. thats why radio turns off or blinks for a sec while starting car its to make sure that most of the available amps are given to the starter. I hope that helps just make sure that you are holding the key in the start pos. while looking for voltage on one of the wires.
Good Luck

v8destroyer

its the ignition switch. ive had a 90 crx si and a 95 civic ex and on both cars i had the same problem.

gsrhatch2356

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8destroyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the ignition switch. ive had a 90 crx si and a 95 civic ex and on both cars i had the same problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I love Diagnostic 8 *****, where did you get yours. I am sorry I am really not trying to be mean but I dont like it when somebody from another city or somebody for that matter hasnt even looked or done testing on a car and condemed a part. for the most part his explantion in his post shows that there is voltage on other wires as he turns the key so with out really standing there and looking I would say it is probally good but neither I or you will know cause we didnt test it. but please dont lead the stray. the whole point of this is to help share info and learn from it and throwing parts at something is not the way to do it.

sorta2

Just went back and retested all the leads coming to the ignition switch, sorry about the shitty pic cell phone, flash light, and a tight garage make for a bad pic. [IMG][/IMG]


Modified by sorta2 at 6:37 PM 1/8/2008

sorta2

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techb

what I would do is disconnect the ignition switch wires I think they are 5 pin and 7 pin. In the I position check continuity between white/black and white. In the III position check continuity between white and black/yellow and black/white. If there is no continuity any of these positions then replace the ignition switch. Hope this helps.

gsrhatch2356

or take a screwdriver or something metal and supply 12v to that one wire and see if it starts then. then you know for a fact that it is a switch.

sorta2

Just tried to jump the dead lead and the car still did not start. First tried to jump the Ignition 2 lead with the Battery lead when I did that all the dash stuff lit off and I could hear my fuel pump priming, then I tried it from Ignition 1 to Ignition 2, then I tried from Start to Ignition 2. I am getting frustrated and tired of filling up my Jeep every two days$$ .

sorta2

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gsrhatch2356

alright I dont think that I completley understand. does your lights come on when the key is turned hot? and are you sure that all your fuses are good? I am sorry I know that might be basic stuff that you have already done but I need to know so i can better understand and help. the next thing I would ask is does the starter turn or not? and when you jumped the lead and heard the fuel pump prime, does it not normally prime without it jumped? if the fuel pump does not normally prime then you probally need to look at the main relay. if you have a main relay problem you should turn the key hot and look for 12V at injectors if you do not see voltage on either side of injector, go back to main relay and jump the yel\wht and the yel\black wire this will supply power to computer as long as fuses are good. and in order to prime the fuel pump you will need to jump the blk\yel wire and the yel\grn. when you jump these wires it elimantes the relay so if it starts then you know one of two things either the relay is bad or one side of the controler is bad so if you get that far and discover that is the problem I can send you a wiring diagram to help you diag it.

sorta2

My head lights/ dash back-lights still work. I checked all my fuses they are good, without jumping anything the starter still turns. And yes when I don't jump anything on the switch the fuel pump doesn't prime. I swaped out the main switch with no results either way. If you could send me a wiring diagram that would e cool I have a Ciltons book but it doesn't have very many wiring diagrams.

To give you more background in to this problem. When I bought the car it had a kill switch that cut off power to the fuel pump. The leads on the switch broke before, and when that happen the car would almost start and die at the same time. When that happen I just sodered the wires back on to the switch, and it was all fine. Before my car died this time, a couple times while I was driving the dashlights would dim and the wipers would start to move very slow, and my speedo and tach gauges would stick and jump and stick again, I parked it came back a couple hours later and it hasn't started since. So this time it was doing the same thing starting and dieing at the same time, So I just went ahead and totally eliminated the kill switch, I did that no results, thought it might have been the main relay, replaced it no results, then I started posting my threads here. Thanks for your help btw.

drtysohc

I didn't read through everything, but if the motor has been out recently check the ecu ground on the water neck.


Edit: nevermind.

gsrhatch2356

Ok with that info I would completly get away from the switch right now. adress the fuel pump sitiution. so its not priming so you need to make sure that you are getting power back to the fuel pump. first thing to do is make sure you have 12v at the blk\yel wire on main relay, if you do then jump that wire to the yel\grn wire at main relay this will send power back to the pump. important to know is the blk\yel wire is only hot in on or start. so as long as that is all good go back to the pump and check for 12v on yel\grn wire coming out of pump. if you have 12v there and you have a good ground then you need a new fuel pump and also it wouldnt hurt to disconnect fuel line from up front to verify cause a weak pump might spit a little fuel but not make any noise. if you do get the pump to come on then you need to go back to the main relay and check the control side of it. try that first and then we can move on.

sorta2

Ok I tested the Blk/Yel on the main relay and I was only getting 9v on start and not on "on". I also tested the injectors and the same thing 9v on start and not on "on". I know I said I swapped out the main switch and I did but I was strapped for cash at the time so I returned it thinking that it was not the problem.

gsrhatch2356

Ok well I would make sure that you have 12v at battery, the 9v thing could be just a dieing battery but as long as you see battery voltage at that blk\yel wire any way with there only being battery voltage at that wire during start and not the on position then you know that all the wiring between there should be good. but go back to the ign switch and look at the blk\yel wire on switch and check it for the same thing voltage during run and start if you do not see this then you need a switch but the only thing that throws the whole thing off is that you car should have started when you jumpered the ign switch. so you may have more than one problem but like I said address the fuel pressure issue first. so once you can get 12v during start and run on the blk\yel wire you can continue your diag from there.

sorta2

I replaced the ignition switch today, still no start. I have voltage to all the leads on the new switch. Everything on the dash works fine with the exception of the chime that sounds when you turn the car on. The fuel pump is priming and I can smell fuel after cranking the motor. I checked for spark and don't have any, checked for power to the coil and had power to the coil, replaced coil still no start.

gsrhatch2356

I found this info on built in sensors in the distrubtor so try this cause with out good crank signal then no spark
each coils\ sensors resistance should be within 350-700ohms

TDC Sensor org\blu
wht\blu

CKP blu\grn
blu\yel

CYP orange
wht
Blk\yel wire should be hot in run\start and the case is the ground so check resistance from negitive side of battery to case of dist.

gsrhatch2356

just curious but did you just get this car and it was not running or this just happened one day. anyway you took care of the fuel pump problem and can move on to the next one you should be up in running within the next couple of days.