mysuperslowej1

i've posted about it before with no results.
i have a 94 eg coupe my brake lights stay on i've replaced the switch i have the rubber piece in there still, i'm thinking i have a messed up ground, where would a good place to start looking be? oddly though a few weeks ago i put my car in reverse and my third brake light came on. hasn't done it since then but, some of the things that happen are like when i put a fuse into the fuse slot the for the brake lights it gives a little spark. is there a ground for each individual fuse? i'm at a loss it's been a few months and i have to drive this car everyday back and forth to work. it's not very safe. please help.

Former User

You don't have a ground issue.

Post pictures of the brake pedal switch showing the wires and wire colors.

Test the switch:

mysuperslowej1

will do, but i have cruise control.

Former User

The diagram also includes instructions on testing the switch when you have cruise control.

Note that, in your case, you want to look for continuity between terminals B & C when the brake pedal is NOT pressed.

mysuperslowej1

ok am i supposed to test both at the same time? or one at a time? and i've had a few people tell me to adjust my brake pedal but i don't see why they tell me to the switch is fully suppressed unless there is a second switch that i don't know about.

mysuperslowej1

bump

blackaneseman

the switch itself is adjustable. there should be a adjusting lock on the brake switch.
http://torontohondaparts.com/Part.as...=36750-SR3-003

Former User

Continuity between B & C. Touch one meter probe to B and the other to C with the meter set to measure continuity. Take two separate readings, one with pedal up and other with pedal down.

mysuperslowej1

yes I've played with that when I put a new one on. If i have it all the way against it ,it pushes my brakes too far down and my brakes turn on or whatever.

Ok thanks I'll post on this again in a few days when it's not snowy cause of the snow storm in the Midwest.

mysuperslowej1

so i don't have a multimeter and none of the mechanics at my shop do either which i thought was weird but, they had a test light so we played around with it for a while and then i unplugged the trunk wiring harness and tested the plug for each wire with a test light and it never came on. so i'm starting to think it's just getting a positive feed from another wire in the trunk some where cause all the wires are kind of messed up as it is. so i'm gonna buy a new trunk wiring harness and see if that fixes it. cause 2 other mechanics tested it with me and it's not the switch. does that sound right to you guys? since the test light wasn't being light up from within the plug? the brake lights even stayed on when we had disconnected the switch.

dazebreak

Buy a cheap digital multimeter, anything will do. Harbor Freight Tools has them for $4. Um, your mechanic doesn't have a multimeter, seriously?

mysuperslowej1

so i tested my fuse voltage for the brake light/reverse and it was 12.76 i know i should've replied to this 2 months ago but that's what it is.

mysuperslowej1

also i noticed when i had first got the car if i used my horn more than 2-3 times the fuse would blow along with my dome light fuse.

jbpnoman

A test light can't be used to test continuity. Get a voltmeter - they're cheap, and every back yard mechanic should have one.

mysuperslowej1

well if you would've read what i had just posted my voltage was 12.76