joelmatt89

So the car is a 93 ex coupe with a b16a2 swap. I have posted this numerous times before but i still have the problem and if anything it got worse after i got the oem o2 sensor. Last tank of gas i kept it under 3k almost all the time maybe went to 3.5k like 5 times and i got 13mpg. Here is everything i have checked/cleaned/fixed that could possibly be related to this problem: vacuum leak, fitv, iacv, iat sensor, tps sensor, o2 sensor, no exhaust leaks, new cat within last two months, new ws2, ran injector cleaner, new fuel filter, short ram intake. So I cannot think of anything else and i really want/need to fix this. Here is the only things I can think of possibly the cat could be clogged or something i know there is a spec where you can test them by the temp it should be based on the temp the engine is at does anyone have this spec or another method for testing it. When i have the heat or fan on it smells gassy but when i turn it off or put the windows down it goes away. Also could something be wrong with my injectors. It is running on a p28 chipped by phearable, so it has a resistor box, could something be wrong with that. That brings me to my last suspicion, obviously a ecu chipped with the basemap is going to run rich but it should not be this rich is it possible phearable.net F***** it up when they chipped it or something. Please help me out guys i am quite desperate.

honda_hackett

you could have really leaky injectors... which causes the gassy smell. thats just one option that could be taken away if you replace/have them tested.

joelmatt89

i guess that could make sense but they are the same injectors that were on there before the swap and b16 that the previous owner put in there was his and he had driven it for a few years prior and he said it was perfect so I doubt that is the case. If they were that leaky I would think I would see some gas around them and i have checked for that. any other ideas has anyone had any problems with a ecu chipped by phearable, i have only heard good things about him but no one is perfect and i just can't imagine at this point what else it could be.

joelmatt89

bump

B serious

iTrader: (1)

everyone makes mistakes. take it back to phearable. See if everything is correct. Make sure your MAP/TPS plugs are not mixed up and make sure your CTS/VTEC plugs are not mixed up.

Do you have any CELs?

joelmatt89

okay ill send him an email the thing is i am gonna have to mail it to him and i don't have an extra ecu so ill be out of the car for a while. I would like to find a dyno in my area that doesn't charge over $500 to tune it but for some reason that is turning out to be a challenge. I have no cels, and i have tested all those plugs you mention to make sure they all have continuity to the correct pin on the ecu.

joelmatt89

bump for any ideas, the thing i forgot to mention is the car wasn't driven after the swap until i got the ecu chipped so it is really hard to just say it must be the ecu. Could i try running a stock p28 or another ecu instead and see if my gas mileage is significantly better so I can know for a fact the ecu was chipped bad, and it isn't something else caused during the swap.

vtecbrown

I would try putting the stock injectors back in there. In conjunction with that, if phearable chipped it the right way, you should be able to take the cover off the ecu and pull the two-pin jumper near the chip in order to return it back to stock fuel/ignition values. I don't have a picture of what the jumper looks like...but if you're afraid of doing this, try to track down another p30 or p28.

joelmatt89

Okay thanks that makes sense. It does have the stock injectors in their from the b16, since I have a p28 I had to install a resistor since the obdII injectors run at a different resistance.

joelmatt89

Well i talked to the guy at phearable.net he says the chance of them screwing something up is completely unlikely. He said they have chipped hundreds of others with that same basemap with no problems. He also said it bench tested fine before they shipped it. But he did say the only thing they can't test is the injector drivers. This leads me to wonder if this could be the problem. When i first got the car the previous owner had forgot to get a resistor box. He had only driven it a couple times and i realized it before i drove it, but i know you can fry an ecu like that normally in ten minutes or less. So what do you guys think could driving it without the resistor box screw up the driver for the injectors. I am starting to think i should find another p28 or p30 to try and run in it and see if it's my problem.

Former User

Sorry to hear that this is a continuing problem.

I think you already checked the ignition timing, right?

Are all four injectors clicking the same way when the engine is idling?

Have you tested the 2-wire coolant temperature sensor under the distributor?

Is the thermostat stuck open?

joelmatt89

yes i checked ignition timing it was right on what it should be, i will check to see if i hear for the clicking from the injectors with a screw driver or something, i will also test the 2 wire coolant sensor. I don't think the thermostat is stuck open. I can feel that coolant isn't running through the tubes when it hasn't warmed up. As far as testing the coolant sensor i am assuming that is a thermistor so does anyone have the specs of what values of resistance i should be looking for from it to determine if it is working correctly.