PetesPonies

It sat for a few weeks, went to start and no fuel pump. Pulled the main relay and found a test online. It failed, so bought a relay. No difference with new relay. Checked the new relay and it failed the test as well. I found a schematic of the relay and realized the test posted was wrong. Tested it as per what I saw in the schematic and both replays passed. Tested to see if the black/yel wire was hot when key was on, it was. It doing all this, I ended up with the original relay back in and the car started. I started it a few times, then put it away for the night. next morning, back to a no start. I removed an alarm that was installed before I got the car, just in case something was acting up there, no change. I didn't even know the alarm was there, there was no remote, etc. Anyway, no difference. I pulled out the ECU to have a look. Others that have had computer problems mention it looked wet inside. Mine looked new, not a trace of any moisture or corrosion, looks like it just came from a box. Surely this doesn't mean anything couldn't still be wrong, but the fact that the engine started, after having the problem, means the ECU was working. A chip isn't going to not work, then work later. I have no access to another ECU, but really don't think that is the issue. Ideas??

tony_2018

Since you've check the main relay its time to see if the fuel pump is getting power, I would look there next.

PetesPonies

Fuel pump has never been a problem. When jumping power to pump, it always has come on. I just did these tests,. . . . I jumped 1 to 7 and 5 to 7 on the main relay, pump came on both times. I then went to the ECU and removed plug A. I grounded A7 ( green/yel ) and the pump came on. That to me, is saying the ECU is the problem. I just don't see how an ECU can be intermittent ? Thoughts?

tony_2018

you jump the plugs to ground the relay, did you check to see if the ecu was getting power? Is the ecu fuse good to go?

tony_2018

You also have to remember these cars are getting old, wires can become brittle at the connectors.

PetesPonies

THis is a 95 yes, but low mileage. Not thrashed at all. A true survivor where no punk kid has been All wires are pliable, no issues there, that are obvious. The ECU fuse is fine.

Red1995egcoupe

i put up my post 5 minutes before, and this guy already has 73 views and five responses and knobody has helped me with my urgent problem... Please someone help me!!!!

JRCivic1

Replace the ECU. If you don't want to spend the $$$ and just throw parts at it, try a KNOWN GOOD ECU and see if the fuel pump cycles at "Key-on".

Red1995egcoupe

ok thank you!

muellersfan

Check the 4 main ground pins on the ECU connectors, and also the thermostat housing ground.

muellersfan

OP— Please check the ECU grounds with a multimeter before buying an ECU.

PetesPonies

Yes, all grounds were good. Continuity through them not an issue. On a side note, everyone talks about a thermostat housing ground. My car doesn't have one there. It's a totally stock 84K car, no ground there, no signs of one either. Anyway, after the A7 pin check it seemed like a computer, just baffled me it would be intermittent. I found a $60 computer, delivered; great price. I just installed it and the fuel pump came on and . . it's running. Thanks for ideas.

muellersfan

bloomin

These cars are nearing 25 years old, the most likely problem is the electrolytic (gel filled) capacitors in the ECU, they have either dried out, or leaked. Many times replacing them can
repair the ECU, again they can be obviously failed (leaking or bulging case) or not, (dried out inside and no obvious signs on the outside of the case at all, I always tell people that have basic soldering skills to try and replace the few electrolytic capacitors inside as a really cheap and easy fix. It's only 5 bucks or less to replace theses too!