gsrauto98

First off i have a 98 civic with a GSR swap.
So today when i was leaving school, i was pulling out and the car started like bucking for a second and then died. So then i start it again and i make maybe 20-30yds and it does the same thing. I try to start it again and it will not start.
I got it towed to the house and i tried starting it, and it fired up, and then died in like 10 seconds.
So i replace the plugs and wires and it starts for a few seconds and then dies again. So what do you think is the issue? Seems kinda strange.
Please help, all help is appreciated.

gsrauto98

So i swapped out the TPS and it stays running now. But it wont rev past like 2800?

gsrauto98

Bump i need to get this fixed and i'm stumped!

gsrauto98

Well I got it running. The TPS was on wrong at first, which was why it wasnt revving correctly.
On another note, I was hoping this massive site would be a little more help...

EFbomb

Nice.

Remember you have to calibrate the TPS while its in the car with power to it. 0 - 4.5v spread from closed to wot

jdmh22eg2

^ bad info i have calibrated many many b,d,h tps

.5v at idle sweeping to full 5 volts at WOT

gsrauto98

I've read about calibrating it. Do you do it with just the key in the "on" position?
Not sure how you change the voltage to it either...

jdmh22eg2

do it running

u dont change the voltage per say urself u move the TPS(alot like dizzy in idiot terms) when u have a multi meter on the 5v wire

gsrauto98

gotcha, now i just need a multimeter lol
Which way you move it to adjust up or adjust down?

jdmh22eg2

well it will only go one way when u have a meter on the wire IIRC it is the middle wire but dont hold me to that

with the lead on wire at idle u want to move the TPS to rea .5 at idle screw it back down and check rest of prm range on meter .5-5v at WoT

now i have seen were u may need a tad more or a tad less depending on ur current setup and how tempormental ur motor is lol but u will only know if it needs a tad more or less under load via boging MINORLY

gsrauto98

So it kinda wants to do the same thing as before if i do not let it warm up.
So i'm guessing it was not the TPS. What else could it be?
The last thing i fooled with was the FITV, you think that could be it?

jdmh22eg2

what CEL u have on

gsrauto98

Not sure the last time i tried to check it by jumping the little blue plug by the ecu it didnt work, the cel just came on and stayed on. And i am positive i was doing it right too. I have tried it with a obd2a p72 and a obd1 jdm p72(which is what is in the car now)

jdmh22eg2

well u should b useing the 2 wire plug for jumping if it is a EG chassis and how long has the swap been in

gsrauto98

It's an Ek chasis. And the swap has been for over two years probably. Just now kinda having problems

jdmh22eg2

oh idk if u can jump the plug on ek like an eg obd1 it may be ur dizzy dieing idk tho find a way to check ur CEL's

gsrauto98

I was thinking dizzy also, i am going to try and find another obd1 b-series vtec dizzy to try. And also figure out how i can check the codes.

gsrauto98

A few people have been saying maybe moisture was getting inside the dizzy? making it cause this problem?

gsrauto98

So i figured out what the codes were...IACV and code 21 and 22, both vtec codes. So it is dumping a bunch of fuel at idle causing to idle like complete crap and is bogging when driving. Not sure why the IACV is not working at all, it is getting voltage to it. And vtec worked just the other day before it broke down. so wtf?

gsrauto98

Also the car was once an automatic and still is using the automatic engine harness. Does anything need depinned and repinned on another location for the iacv or something?
I dont know what the deal is with vtec, used to always work and now it took a ****?

jdmh22eg2

well take iacv off and clean inside with brake clean and see if that does it