_TaintedRarity_

For the past few weeks the car has had trouble starting, at first one of the spark plugs was faulty so i replaced it and afterwards it seemed to help. Then maybe about a week later started up again so i went and replaced the dist. cap, rotor buttons, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel pump, replaced injectors and before the car would have a hard time starting but once it did it was fine no problems at all. NOW it will cut on and run for about a minute then die on its own and it used to NEVER stall like that or misfire and now it is. No CEL light either. Any ideas?

Former User

Does the engine easily restart after the stall?

When the engine stalls, do the cluster warning lights turn on and stay on?

_TaintedRarity_

yes it does easily restart. The lights flash on for a sec then go back off as it normally would when stalling.

Former User

Just to clarify, the charging system light (battery symbol) in the cluster remains lit after the engine stalls?

Under what circumstances does the engine stall?

Have you cleaned and tightened the battery connectors/posts, as well as the battery ground wire attached to the chassis?

_TaintedRarity_

Yes that light normally stays on. The car stalled at a red light then cranked right back up made it a bit further then it stalled again. When i went into the eye doctor and came back out i had to hold the key for a sec then it went a large bit further then died again. This time it wouldn't restart. So the next day when we came back out to look at it the fuel pump was replaced and thats when it we noticed it had a misfire which it didn't have before. And it would run for about a min or more then stop on its own. We checked to make sure the battery posts were attached tight enough. Not sure about the chassis. Some ppl are telling me it could be the ecm failing.

Former User

If you want to pinpoint the problem without randomly replacing parts, then you need to be prepared to some basic troubleshooting when the engine stalls and won't restart immediately.

When this happens, start by checking for bright white spark at the plugs and listening for whether the fuel pump primes.

_TaintedRarity_

I hear the fuel pump priming, had the spark plug wires and plugs checked and they are fine. If the check engine light would come on it would be alot more helpful but its not thats whats odd. I did have the injectors replaced recently and bought them from a low mileage salvage yard and they looked and check out fine. Could this cause these problems? Or maybe the ecm?

Former User

This^ is not very informative. You actually need to check for spark at the plugs when the engine will NOT start. Click the Spark link in my signature.

_TaintedRarity_

Well my dad did a spark arch test and no sparks from the wires, a mechanic tested the end of the spark plugs while the the key was turned and they checked out.

Former User

^When the engine would NOT start? If so, was spark bright white or yellow/orange or deep blue?

_TaintedRarity_

well he didnt do that way he used a multimeter to test the voltage when it would NOT start. I guess i have to do that test as well.

Former User

Yep. You won't know whether or not there's a spark problem until you directly test for spark when the engine won't start.

_TaintedRarity_

I will test it next time it wont start. Right now its at the Mazda dealership where i bought it, they are going to run tests and figure out whats wrong with it for free so that i can have an idea and stop taking it to a shop time after time.

Former User

Hopefully they can sort it out for you.

_TaintedRarity_

Yea i hope so...cause i love my honda but im at wits-end...Thank you for your help

Former User

My wild guess would be bad ICM or coil based on the misfire codes. Let's see what the Mazda people say.