gamby

This isn't a "look at my stuff" post. More of an overview of the part and install.

This is the Suspension Techniques lower tie and sway combo. The tie has a thick aluminum plate that attaches to the subframe to help prevent tearout. The strongest mount point bolts the plate to the subframe using the LCA pivot bolts (they provide new bolts). It uses the stock top subframe mount point, but you
need to drill a new bottom hole--no biggie. The sway is 7/8" whch DWARFS the stock piece. Overall, a pretty beefy setup.

The kit comes with all new hardware and everything is top-notch quality. Instructions have plenty of photos, which were hugely helpful.

Although not purely bolt-on, the install was pretty straightforward (even for a suck mechanic like me). The biggest problem was getting the rusted stock endlinks off. If you live in a rusty area, be prepared to cut them off. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel (3 of them, actually). Otherwise, everything else comes off without much drama.

When the instructions say to re-torque the hardware at 10, 100 and 1000 miles, do it. It loosened up quite a bit after the first drive. To all the people who say "it'll still tear out", well, I think if it stays torqued, it probably won't.

I haven't had the chance to drive the car much (not my daily driver) but the car does feel really "planted" for lack of a better term. It really stiffens things up out back. We'll see how it is when I autocross it.

BTW, Shocks are Koni yellow, springs are Neuspeed SofSport.








Modified by gamby at 8:18 PM 5/18/2004

gamby

I thought I gave the relevant points. Before I got the kit, I didn't know exactly where it mounted on the subframe. Hopefully, I'll enlighten others. The instructions that came w/ the kit were very thorough.

I guess the endlink info wasn't relevant, huh?

EK4civichatch

How thick is the bar??

gamby

Edited for a bit more info.

The bar is 7/8".

How-to--

* Remove old endlinks (cutter)

* remove stock swaybar and all hardware.

* measure for new hole in bottom of subframe and drill out w/ 5/16 bit.

* file out hole.

* Remove stock LCA pivot bolts

* mount lower tie using new LCA pivot bolts.

* mount new sway bar through the lower tie and onto subframe using new hardware.

* install new endlinks. Pre-assemble them just so you know how they go together. You'll probably take them apart again, but familiarity is a good thing here.

* torque everything to spec. Retorque. Retorque. Retorque.

Enjoy.

(Better?)

seppuku

I strongly recommend using a thread locker...the bolts tend to come loose.

I have the same kit...it rocks...even on a stock suspension...the twisting of the rear end has been drasticly reduced.

gamby

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seppuku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I strongly recommend using a thread locker...the bolts tend to come loose.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why didn't I think of that??? Oh yeah--I'm a suck mechanic. I guess I'll buy some and put it on next time I'm under the car.

Thanks.