Spark testing method debate
06-22-2015, 04:51 PM
#1
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Spark testing method debate
You can have them for cheap (10 bucks) on amazon.com:
The color of the spark will tell the quality of the spark, which in turn will tell you the quality of the coil/wires. If the coil is weak, the quality is poor. If the wires are going bad, the quality is poor.
06-22-2015, 05:00 PM
#2
Re: motor not running right. Need help
Or if the spark plugs themselves are old, the color can also be bad.
Healthy spark should be white, with a hint of blue. If it isn't, then you have a problem in your ignition system and more testing is needed.
Healthy spark should be white, with a hint of blue. If it isn't, then you have a problem in your ignition system and more testing is needed.
06-22-2015, 05:02 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: motor not running right. Need help
Here's a link from the faq sticky about checking spark and other ignition components.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...blems-2919450/
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...blems-2919450/
06-22-2015, 05:22 PM
#5
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
Granted I'm assuming the user is going to know what a bad plug looks like compared to a new good one.
06-30-2015, 06:54 PM
#6
06-30-2015, 10:32 PM
#7
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
Can be had for 10 bucks as I linked up.
Spark plug isn't definitive for testing spark quality just like non HEI spark testers. You can get spark on none HEI testers but fail the spark test when you use an HEI test same is true using a spark plug to test with. And since Honda's utilize an HEI ignition system.....
That was the purpose of the HEI tester, not only does it provide definitive information about have/don't have spark but it also provides definitive quality information.
I know up here it's 5 bugs a plug so only the cost of 2 plugs to get a solid tool to test for spark and quality of spark.
Spark plug isn't definitive for testing spark quality just like non HEI spark testers. You can get spark on none HEI testers but fail the spark test when you use an HEI test same is true using a spark plug to test with. And since Honda's utilize an HEI ignition system.....
That was the purpose of the HEI tester, not only does it provide definitive information about have/don't have spark but it also provides definitive quality information.
I know up here it's 5 bugs a plug so only the cost of 2 plugs to get a solid tool to test for spark and quality of spark.
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07-01-2015, 05:04 AM
#10
Re: motor not running right. Need help
The NGK ZFR5F-11 spark plug actually costs $2.09 at my local auto parts store or at Amazon. The spark tester is 5 to 7 times higher price than the Civic spark plug.
White spark = good. Definitive.
Simple as pressing threads to valve cover. The spark tester also risks improper grounding.
That's the wrong way to test spark. Press the threads to the valve cover to ground.
White spark = good. Definitive.
That's the wrong way to test spark. Press the threads to the valve cover to ground.
07-01-2015, 10:31 AM
#11
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
The understanding I came to have from the HEI tester is that it stresses the ignition system. So if you have spark and quality spark with it, then you know without a doubt all the components of the ignition system are good.
With a regular spark tester or a spark plug, it's the standard gap and so can work without stressing the components. So an intermittent problem can slip through the cracks as you have spark and it's white and then you start loading the engine driving and the problem starts occurring.
It's also why I believe the HEI is preferred tester over the older regular testers as the regular testers is pretty much just a glorified spark plug.
Simply, with a spark plug or regular plug tester, you can get spark in testing while not get spark or quality spark at times in running conditions.
With the HEI tester, if you get quality spark, you will also get quality spark in all running conditions as the tester stresses the system beyond any normal running conditions.
At least that's how I understood it. To me, that's worth the extra 5 bucks it costs me for the HEI tester. And once I have the tool, I have it for all future tests and don't need to go buy another new spark plug to test with unless it needs a full round of plugs/wires etc.
As for ordering on Amazon.com, I have to pay shipping and exchange so it's still right up to 5 bucks a plug.
With a regular spark tester or a spark plug, it's the standard gap and so can work without stressing the components. So an intermittent problem can slip through the cracks as you have spark and it's white and then you start loading the engine driving and the problem starts occurring.
It's also why I believe the HEI is preferred tester over the older regular testers as the regular testers is pretty much just a glorified spark plug.
Simply, with a spark plug or regular plug tester, you can get spark in testing while not get spark or quality spark at times in running conditions.
With the HEI tester, if you get quality spark, you will also get quality spark in all running conditions as the tester stresses the system beyond any normal running conditions.
At least that's how I understood it. To me, that's worth the extra 5 bucks it costs me for the HEI tester. And once I have the tool, I have it for all future tests and don't need to go buy another new spark plug to test with unless it needs a full round of plugs/wires etc.
As for ordering on Amazon.com, I have to pay shipping and exchange so it's still right up to 5 bucks a plug.
07-01-2015, 10:35 AM
#12
Re: motor not running right. Need help
The understanding I came to have from the HEI tester is that it stresses the ignition system. So if you have spark and quality spark with it, then you know without a doubt all the components of the ignition system are good.
With a regular spark tester or a spark plug, it's the standard gap and so can work without stressing the components. So an intermittent problem can slip through the cracks as you have spark and it's white and then you start loading the engine driving and the problem starts occurring.
It's also why I believe the HEI is preferred tester over the older regular testers as the regular testers is pretty much just a glorified spark plug.
Simply, with a spark plug or regular plug tester, you can get spark in testing while not get spark or quality spark at times in running conditions.
With the HEI tester, if you get quality spark, you will also get quality spark in all running conditions as the tester stresses the system beyond any normal running conditions.
At least that's how I understood it. To me, that's worth the extra 5 bucks it costs me for the HEI tester. And once I have the tool, I have it for all future tests and don't need to go buy another new spark plug to test with unless it needs a full round of plugs/wires etc.
With a regular spark tester or a spark plug, it's the standard gap and so can work without stressing the components. So an intermittent problem can slip through the cracks as you have spark and it's white and then you start loading the engine driving and the problem starts occurring.
It's also why I believe the HEI is preferred tester over the older regular testers as the regular testers is pretty much just a glorified spark plug.
Simply, with a spark plug or regular plug tester, you can get spark in testing while not get spark or quality spark at times in running conditions.
With the HEI tester, if you get quality spark, you will also get quality spark in all running conditions as the tester stresses the system beyond any normal running conditions.
At least that's how I understood it. To me, that's worth the extra 5 bucks it costs me for the HEI tester. And once I have the tool, I have it for all future tests and don't need to go buy another new spark plug to test with unless it needs a full round of plugs/wires etc.
07-01-2015, 12:01 PM
#13
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
By design the HEI uses a very large gap forcing the coil to produce it's maximum output. A regular spark plug and even the old regular spark testers do not do this.
You are the physics/science guy, I am not sure where you are having confusion on the advantages of a spark tester designed and built around the specifications of High Energy Ignition systems, like what is used in Honda's.
Here is a write up about them from an experienced mechanic that has write ups on how to diagnose lots of different cars, not just Hondas:
The HEI Spark Tester (The Best Spark Tester On the Market)
I think that write up can explain it better than I ever could.
07-01-2015, 12:09 PM
#14
Re: motor not running right. Need help
Linking to the product's advertisement is not particularly compelling given the bias to sell the product for profit.
In addition, do you understand that the coil produces the same energy spark regardless of engine load or demand? Spark timing changes, not spark quality.
07-01-2015, 12:43 PM
#15
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
It's not an advertisement. The website doesn't sell these things. And I don't know why the link is failing for you. It's the write up about the tool on the mechanics website. Maybe the NSA is censoring you since you are in the states? 
And yes I understand engine load isn't going to change the conditions of the coil. Spark gap will which doesn't change and heat will. And I realize gap doesn't change but very slowly over time.
The point of the tester is if the coil is weak and struggles once the engine is loaded (engine temps in the bay are severe) for a duration and struggles to produce spark, a spark plug might not pull those results once you are testing (hood up, heat dissipated etc). The tester on the other hand is going to change the parameters with a large gap to force the coil to work it's hardest.
If the coil is struggling the tester is going to bring that to light. A spark plug quite likely will not.
Here is the write up I linked that you can't seem to go visit:
If you can ever make it to the website, those 5 are links to his other articles/how to's. Also of note, the cut and paste job didn't copy the formatting completely accurately so it looks sloppy here. But the content is there, that's what is important.
So would you mind telling me how that's an advertisement? Can't even see the page and make an accusation blindly like that is rather surprising. Is that an attempt to discredit me? I'm not really sure where that came from.
And yes I understand engine load isn't going to change the conditions of the coil. Spark gap will which doesn't change and heat will. And I realize gap doesn't change but very slowly over time.
The point of the tester is if the coil is weak and struggles once the engine is loaded (engine temps in the bay are severe) for a duration and struggles to produce spark, a spark plug might not pull those results once you are testing (hood up, heat dissipated etc). The tester on the other hand is going to change the parameters with a large gap to force the coil to work it's hardest.
If the coil is struggling the tester is going to bring that to light. A spark plug quite likely will not.
Here is the write up I linked that you can't seem to go visit:
A great tool like the HEI spark tester is no good to you if you don't know how to use it or read its results. To really take advantage of the spark tester you need to know the theory of how it works. Here's a basic summary:
The HEI spark tester helps in the diagnosis of the Ignition System by stress testing the ignition coil and any other component between it and the spark plug (like: a distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition cables, etc).
As you can see in the photo, the tester looks like a spark plug with some very big and obvious differences. The biggest one is that there's no ground electrode hovering over the center electrode. Instead, there's a huge air gap between its center electrode and its body.
When you connect the spark tester to the spark plug cable or the ignition coil Boot (for Coil-on-Plug Systems) and crank the engine, the HEI spark tester forces the ignition coil to produce its maximum output so the spark can jump across the very large air gap. This action stress-tests the ignition coil.
The voltage necessary to fire the HEI spark tester is around 35,000 volts. This kind of voltage produces a very bright and bluish spark that's also audible. This method of testing for spark is the best one and does not cause any damage to the components.
If the ignition coil or whatever component that is in between it and the tester are on their last leg, you'll get a NO-SPARK result on the tester.
The beauty of this tool lies in the fact that you get one of only two results to interpret. Either a spark jumping from the center electrode to the outside metal body or NO Spark. Thats it! It's a very easy tool to use.
So, lets say that you're testing the ignition coil and you got a No Spark Result. This would indicate that the ignition coil is faulty. To be absolutely certain, you would only need to check the Power and Control Circuits of the coil. If the coil is getting power and it's being pulsed by its control module, the ignition coil is BAD!
The HEI Spark Tester: One of the BEST tools ever!
Behind every great tool, there's a great test. To effectively use this tool, I recommend reading the following articles (within this site) to learn more about this tool...
1)TESTING THE HONDA CIVIC IGNITION SYSTEM. This article is the most comprehensive article on how to use the HEI spark tester to test the ignition coil, the Distributor Cap, the Distributor Rotor, and the spark plug wires. I highly recommend this article!
2)FORD COIL PACK TEST (V-6 ENGINES). Another good article that I highly recommend on how to use the HEI spark tester, this time to test a modern coil pack type Direct Ignition System (DIS).
3)MISFIRE: A CASE OF CARBON TRACKING -Step by Step Testing of the Ignition Misfire.
4)Testing the Ignition System for Spark. Article on the basics of testing a CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START CONDITION.
5)How Does an Ignition Coil Work? Easy to understand explanation of how the ignition coil and the Ignition System works.
IMPORTANT you'll notice in most of the photos, in this site, the HEI tester is grounded by a battery jump-start cable. Why? you might ask.
Well, more and more, plastic is replacing metal in the engine compartment and so it's difficult to find a good grounding point. And if you do find one, the spark plug cable or the ignition coil Boot is not long enough to reach it with the tool attached.
Also, the only (and it's a big one) fault with this tool, is that its grounding clip is very flimsy. If you use it, it'll break in a few uses. So I find it easier to ground the tester with the jump-start cable.
The HEI spark tester helps in the diagnosis of the Ignition System by stress testing the ignition coil and any other component between it and the spark plug (like: a distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition cables, etc).
As you can see in the photo, the tester looks like a spark plug with some very big and obvious differences. The biggest one is that there's no ground electrode hovering over the center electrode. Instead, there's a huge air gap between its center electrode and its body.
When you connect the spark tester to the spark plug cable or the ignition coil Boot (for Coil-on-Plug Systems) and crank the engine, the HEI spark tester forces the ignition coil to produce its maximum output so the spark can jump across the very large air gap. This action stress-tests the ignition coil.
The voltage necessary to fire the HEI spark tester is around 35,000 volts. This kind of voltage produces a very bright and bluish spark that's also audible. This method of testing for spark is the best one and does not cause any damage to the components.
If the ignition coil or whatever component that is in between it and the tester are on their last leg, you'll get a NO-SPARK result on the tester.
The beauty of this tool lies in the fact that you get one of only two results to interpret. Either a spark jumping from the center electrode to the outside metal body or NO Spark. Thats it! It's a very easy tool to use.
So, lets say that you're testing the ignition coil and you got a No Spark Result. This would indicate that the ignition coil is faulty. To be absolutely certain, you would only need to check the Power and Control Circuits of the coil. If the coil is getting power and it's being pulsed by its control module, the ignition coil is BAD!
The HEI Spark Tester: One of the BEST tools ever!
Behind every great tool, there's a great test. To effectively use this tool, I recommend reading the following articles (within this site) to learn more about this tool...
1)TESTING THE HONDA CIVIC IGNITION SYSTEM. This article is the most comprehensive article on how to use the HEI spark tester to test the ignition coil, the Distributor Cap, the Distributor Rotor, and the spark plug wires. I highly recommend this article!
2)FORD COIL PACK TEST (V-6 ENGINES). Another good article that I highly recommend on how to use the HEI spark tester, this time to test a modern coil pack type Direct Ignition System (DIS).
3)MISFIRE: A CASE OF CARBON TRACKING -Step by Step Testing of the Ignition Misfire.
4)Testing the Ignition System for Spark. Article on the basics of testing a CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START CONDITION.
5)How Does an Ignition Coil Work? Easy to understand explanation of how the ignition coil and the Ignition System works.
IMPORTANT you'll notice in most of the photos, in this site, the HEI tester is grounded by a battery jump-start cable. Why? you might ask.
Well, more and more, plastic is replacing metal in the engine compartment and so it's difficult to find a good grounding point. And if you do find one, the spark plug cable or the ignition coil Boot is not long enough to reach it with the tool attached.
Also, the only (and it's a big one) fault with this tool, is that its grounding clip is very flimsy. If you use it, it'll break in a few uses. So I find it easier to ground the tester with the jump-start cable.
So would you mind telling me how that's an advertisement? Can't even see the page and make an accusation blindly like that is rather surprising. Is that an attempt to discredit me? I'm not really sure where that came from.
07-01-2015, 03:31 PM
#16
Re: motor not running right. Need help
It's not an advertisement. The website doesn't sell these things. And I don't know why the link is failing for you. It's the write up about the tool on the mechanics website. Maybe the NSA is censoring you since you are in the states?
And yes I understand engine load isn't going to change the conditions of the coil. Spark gap will which doesn't change and heat will. And I realize gap doesn't change but very slowly over time.
The point of the tester is if the coil is weak and struggles once the engine is loaded (engine temps in the bay are severe) for a duration and struggles to produce spark, a spark plug might not pull those results once you are testing (hood up, heat dissipated etc). The tester on the other hand is going to change the parameters with a large gap to force the coil to work it's hardest.
If the coil is struggling the tester is going to bring that to light. A spark plug quite likely will not.
Here is the write up I linked that you can't seem to go visit:
If you can ever make it to the website, those 5 are links to his other articles/how to's. Also of note, the cut and paste job didn't copy the formatting completely accurately so it looks sloppy here. But the content is there, that's what is important.
So would you mind telling me how that's an advertisement? Can't even see the page and make an accusation blindly like that is rather surprising. Is that an attempt to discredit me? I'm not really sure where that came from.
And yes I understand engine load isn't going to change the conditions of the coil. Spark gap will which doesn't change and heat will. And I realize gap doesn't change but very slowly over time.
The point of the tester is if the coil is weak and struggles once the engine is loaded (engine temps in the bay are severe) for a duration and struggles to produce spark, a spark plug might not pull those results once you are testing (hood up, heat dissipated etc). The tester on the other hand is going to change the parameters with a large gap to force the coil to work it's hardest.
If the coil is struggling the tester is going to bring that to light. A spark plug quite likely will not.
Here is the write up I linked that you can't seem to go visit:
If you can ever make it to the website, those 5 are links to his other articles/how to's. Also of note, the cut and paste job didn't copy the formatting completely accurately so it looks sloppy here. But the content is there, that's what is important.
So would you mind telling me how that's an advertisement? Can't even see the page and make an accusation blindly like that is rather surprising. Is that an attempt to discredit me? I'm not really sure where that came from.
Points to consider about the link you posted:
1) Nothing in the spark tester article states that the tool is more reliable than a regular spark plug or other methods to test for spark or spark quality. No reliable comparisons with any other products are ever presented.
2) All the articles are written by a single author: Abraham Torres-Arredondo.
3) The articles are clearly written to convince you to buy products. All of Mr. Torres-Arredondo's articles eventually lead to a direct link to Amazon where you can purchase the tools/items he praises.
With this^ said, I think the product he's trying to sell you probably works fine. Is it better than other less expensive options? I remain highly skeptical.
There's a link at the end of each article where you can e-mail Mr. Torres-Arredondo. I wonder what his response would be if you asked him how much he was paid by Amazon or the companies selling the products he endorses for writing the articles.
07-01-2015, 04:38 PM
#17
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
That is an understandable position. Now I understand your previous comment and the meaning behind it. Not that I agree, but I do understand. 
I find it interesting that you imply the motive of the site is monetary when the products in question are minimal in cost. So with that view the links we share to inexpensive but useful tools and/or parts here at H-T is so we can make some money? We're making commission every time someone follows the link and then buys? We aren't just providing a link to the cheapest spot we know to find the tools and/or parts we think are helpful?
To expect a mechanic to share their experience with the public with running a public website while not trying to offset some of the costs of holding said website with some small commissioned links to the cheap, useful products and adding external advertisements to the site just seems unreasonable to me. I mean just because there is links to what the other feels is valuable tools, the experience of the author and what he shared is now null and void? He's just being greedy and wants money, it's not to help others.
I really think we view the site in two different lights. You seem to think it's a site to make money. I see it as someone who has lots of experience that wants to share some of that experience with others. However the world turns on money right now so it's not like you can hold a site up for others for free. So you'll do what you can to offset some of those costs with adding advertisements to the site and maybe even get small commissions for the tools you found most useful.
I highly doubt he's making money and I'm fairly confident he is pretty experienced with getting and keeping a wide range of cars running.
Couple that with the knowledge of just what it takes to make electricity jump through the air, I realize the power in a tool to provide consistent parameters to an HEI ignition system.
But you may be right, the site very well could be a cleverly designed website to lure unknowings into providing him a commission if they happen to buy the cheap tools through the links he provides. I personally just don't buy it. The commissions on those cheap of tools just doesn't seem sustainable to be even a modicum second income for all the expenses to keep the site up.
I find it interesting that you imply the motive of the site is monetary when the products in question are minimal in cost. So with that view the links we share to inexpensive but useful tools and/or parts here at H-T is so we can make some money? We're making commission every time someone follows the link and then buys? We aren't just providing a link to the cheapest spot we know to find the tools and/or parts we think are helpful?
To expect a mechanic to share their experience with the public with running a public website while not trying to offset some of the costs of holding said website with some small commissioned links to the cheap, useful products and adding external advertisements to the site just seems unreasonable to me. I mean just because there is links to what the other feels is valuable tools, the experience of the author and what he shared is now null and void? He's just being greedy and wants money, it's not to help others.
I really think we view the site in two different lights. You seem to think it's a site to make money. I see it as someone who has lots of experience that wants to share some of that experience with others. However the world turns on money right now so it's not like you can hold a site up for others for free. So you'll do what you can to offset some of those costs with adding advertisements to the site and maybe even get small commissions for the tools you found most useful.
I highly doubt he's making money and I'm fairly confident he is pretty experienced with getting and keeping a wide range of cars running.
Couple that with the knowledge of just what it takes to make electricity jump through the air, I realize the power in a tool to provide consistent parameters to an HEI ignition system.
But you may be right, the site very well could be a cleverly designed website to lure unknowings into providing him a commission if they happen to buy the cheap tools through the links he provides. I personally just don't buy it. The commissions on those cheap of tools just doesn't seem sustainable to be even a modicum second income for all the expenses to keep the site up.
07-01-2015, 04:58 PM
#18
Re: motor not running right. Need help
I read those links to be written by an individual or group individuals who cleverly hid advertisements within DIY articles in an attempt to mask their true intent. You could steal DIY text from forums like H-T, and then conjure up articles like those with no knowledge whatsoever of the topics discussed. Just consider all of the spam that appears on H-T everyday or in your e-mail inbox, and you'll understand the power of money to create spectacular deception.
Finally, in none of the articles does the author show evidence that he compared the endorsed product to some other option and found the endorsed products best. Just out of the blue, he states that those products are best. You were so convinced that you also endorsed the product over all else. However, what evidence or proof did Mr. Torres-Arredondo or you present to support the conclusion of superiority? I'm not trying to belittle you. I'm just a born skeptic.
Finally, in none of the articles does the author show evidence that he compared the endorsed product to some other option and found the endorsed products best. Just out of the blue, he states that those products are best. You were so convinced that you also endorsed the product over all else. However, what evidence or proof did Mr. Torres-Arredondo or you present to support the conclusion of superiority? I'm not trying to belittle you. I'm just a born skeptic.
07-01-2015, 05:00 PM
#19
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
How about this article, it doesn't link anything and even SNAPON has an HEI spark tester.... There must be a good reason for it as SNAPON wouldn't have tools Mechanics don't use:
http://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uplo...EI-Testing.pdf
In the article, HEI preferred, not absolutely required but preferred. That tells me you get better more consistent results with the HEI. Non HEI or just a spark plug COULD give bad results. The HEI is calibrated for HEI systems.
http://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uplo...EI-Testing.pdf
In the article, HEI preferred, not absolutely required but preferred. That tells me you get better more consistent results with the HEI. Non HEI or just a spark plug COULD give bad results. The HEI is calibrated for HEI systems.
07-01-2015, 05:10 PM
#20
Re: motor not running right. Need help
How about this article, it doesn't link anything and even SNAPON has an HEI spark tester.... There must be a good reason for it as SNAPON wouldn't have tools Mechanics don't use:
http://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uplo...EI-Testing.pdf
In the article, HEI preferred, not absolutely required but preferred. That tells me you get better more consistent results with the HEI. Non HEI or just a spark plug COULD give bad results. The HEI is calibrated for HEI systems.
http://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uplo...EI-Testing.pdf
In the article, HEI preferred, not absolutely required but preferred. That tells me you get better more consistent results with the HEI. Non HEI or just a spark plug COULD give bad results. The HEI is calibrated for HEI systems.
07-01-2015, 05:18 PM
#22
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
There are a ton of spark testers out there, including adjustable ones. However not all of them are going to simplify the process. That's the convenience of an HEI tester.
I mean, with an HEI tester, a poster need not be asked, "what color is the spark, you have to know how to 'read' the spark". It takes that out of the question. If the system can make it spark... it's good. That's the whole idea. Simplicity, one of two results. With a standard inline spark tester you then have to "evaluate" the spark.
Like hammering a nail, you could use a ball peen hammer but it makes it more challenging than it needs to be.
07-01-2015, 05:35 PM
#23
Hysterically Calm
Thread Starter
Re: motor not running right. Need help
I don't remember the numbers but what I do remember is the higher the voltage, the higher the gap it can cross.
The gap on my spark plug is .043" so in normal dry air should easily spark with less than 10,000 volts. I think it's typically accepted that 30000 volts per inch. But I guess that also is dependent on the ends of the electrodes.
Common math and logic suggests that a spark plug isn't going to require the coil to have to operate at it's maximum to bridge the gap on a spark plug.
The HEI I think is closer to .25" or a 1/4" gap, that is obviously going to take a much higher voltage to jump the spark over than .043" or forty three one thousands of an inch.
In the engine, of course the spark requirements increase under compression so the .043" is optimal for the conditions, but outside the motor for testing, 0.043" takes little to no effort for the coil and ignition system to do, even a weak coil should be able to manage a mere .043" spark. Going greater than .25" for my understanding could cause the coil to discharge through the ICM/Ignitor which could cause damage there. That's why I have no desire of making my own tester.
The gap on my spark plug is .043" so in normal dry air should easily spark with less than 10,000 volts. I think it's typically accepted that 30000 volts per inch. But I guess that also is dependent on the ends of the electrodes.
Common math and logic suggests that a spark plug isn't going to require the coil to have to operate at it's maximum to bridge the gap on a spark plug.
The HEI I think is closer to .25" or a 1/4" gap, that is obviously going to take a much higher voltage to jump the spark over than .043" or forty three one thousands of an inch.
In the engine, of course the spark requirements increase under compression so the .043" is optimal for the conditions, but outside the motor for testing, 0.043" takes little to no effort for the coil and ignition system to do, even a weak coil should be able to manage a mere .043" spark. Going greater than .25" for my understanding could cause the coil to discharge through the ICM/Ignitor which could cause damage there. That's why I have no desire of making my own tester.
07-01-2015, 05:38 PM
#24
Re: motor not running right. Need help
You could but usually when some scam like that is being pulled you can find issues with the DIY's when there is a large quantity of them. I've gone through most of the articles and they are pretty well done and pretty on point for what I know. So I didn't find the typical red flags beyond the website is trying to supplement it's costs with adverts.
It wasn't just the website and what was said there but my knowledge on electricity and having a basic understanding that the Honda is an HEI system...
Here's your original claim:
With a regular spark tester or a spark plug, it's the standard gap and so can work without stressing the components. So an intermittent problem can slip through the cracks as you have spark and it's white and then you start loading the engine driving and the problem starts occurring.
It's also why I believe the HEI is preferred tester over the older regular testers as the regular testers is pretty much just a glorified spark plug.
Simply, with a spark plug or regular plug tester, you can get spark in testing while not get spark or quality spark at times in running conditions.
With the HEI tester, if you get quality spark, you will also get quality spark in all running conditions as the tester stresses the system beyond any normal running conditions.
It's also why I believe the HEI is preferred tester over the older regular testers as the regular testers is pretty much just a glorified spark plug.
Simply, with a spark plug or regular plug tester, you can get spark in testing while not get spark or quality spark at times in running conditions.
With the HEI tester, if you get quality spark, you will also get quality spark in all running conditions as the tester stresses the system beyond any normal running conditions.