em1gbray123

so i got a 2000 civic si. it was running fine my gas light came on and i pulled in and got gas. went down the road for 1 mile then it started boggin down then stalled and wouldnt start for a good 10 mins then started and did the same things. i changed the fuel filter, put fuel treatment in, and gave it a go... nothing... so i pulled the plugs then i wasnt spark so i changed the coil and ignition modgular and still no spark so now i am thinking the crank position sensor or ecu... so my buddy had a p28 ecu with a jumper harness and a b16 map and i hooked it up and did nothing and with that ecu you it shouldnt of mattered if the crank position sensor was bad or not.. so i am lost.... anybody have any ideas?

Former User

Any CEL codes?

Does the fuel pump prime?

Is dash fuse 9 blown?

em1gbray123

no cel codes. feul pump primes. and no blown fuses

Former User

Is there battery voltage on the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM when the key is in ON(II)?

Is the timing belt snapped or stripped?

em1gbray123

there is power to the coil and icm i just replace both and and there it power to them, and i used a muti meter and tested the plug going to the disturbitor and it is a full 12v... i just wonder how this happen randomly

Former User

Check the timing belt. Does the CEL work?

If those are fine, check the Yel/Grn wire that runs between the ICM and ECU for a short or open.

paowa

i'm also thinking its the timing belt. does the it crank over? what happens when you crank the ignition?

em1gbray123

It cranks over fine. If the crank position sensor is bad will that cause it to not have spark? What do you mean by the short and open on the yellow and green wire. i know thre is power to the black and yellow wire to the coil. i am just really confused on what it could possibly be..

Former User

Yes. Do you have a CKP sensor CEL code? Does the CEL work?

If the Yel/Grn wire has a short to ground or an open (broken wire), there will be no spark.

em1gbray123

cel works.... when i turn the car on(II) the check engine comes on for like 3 secs and shuts off which is normal. so what should i do check the conduity of them wires?

averyvm

iTrader: (1)

I think theres an OPEN in one of your distributor pick ups. When it gets hot and doesnt start I would check the resistance across those three pick ups in the Dizzy. I believe two of them are need to create injector pulse.

em1gbray123

so most likely there is a open somewhere between the ecu and dizzy? and what do you mean when what gets hot?^^

Former User

Have you checked the timing belt?

em1gbray123

timing belt is good. and if it was the crankshaft dont you think the cel light would stay on when the key in on(II)

Former User

Nope

em1gbray123

so if i have a obd1 jdm b16 ecu where i believe there is no crankshaft sensor.... and i used a obd1 to obd2 jumper harness would that bypass my faulty crankshaft sensor or would it still not start. just throw ideas out there because i really dont feel like changing my crankshaft sensor if its not the case... is there any way to check if the crankshaft sensor it bad with out actually taking it out?

dohc_sedan

Might have to check the diodes in the dizzy. Could be a cheep quick fix. Also make sure ure using 91 or better octane. Could of caused the initial bog that caused these problems. My em1 ran like poo on low octane.

em1gbray123

well i just changed my crankshaft sensor and nothing so i am just gonna change my whole dizzy

em1gbray123

i'd figure i would come on here and tell you guys want happened. i brought it to honda they charged me 2000..... it acually had them stumped for 3 weeks. it was 2 wires in the distribtor that melted a lil and they sparked and shorted out the ecu. now the dizzy and ecu had to be replaced at the same time....

steven_bobby

was the issue solved sorry I have the same issue dont wanna bring up old threads

TomCat39

Title says solved, as well, you quoted the resolution.

Please start your own thread with your issue if this resolution doesn't help you.