got_no_sol

Ok I've got a b16 swap in a ef (yes I know this is the eg thread but ef side is no help and I'm obd1) the car is running very rich smoking ect , the car is throwing code 1, 14, 22 , I'm not worried about the vtec so 1 and 14 are where I'm at , I've wired in two different Bosch o2 sensors 1 unknown part number and the second is supposed to be the universal replacement for the car it still throws codes for 02 I've rest the ecu multiple times .. now for the ivac code 14 I've tested the wires I have continuity on the ground an 12v on the positive with the ignition in the on position , I've checked the ivac it's self and the selinoid works open closed etc if I unplug the ivac with the car running there is no change at all I've adjust the fitv to the proper location , my tps sensore is reading .5 closed and 4.50 something wot . I've also swapped map sensors , the base map on the ecu is b16a forsure I've swapped 3 chips same maps .. Can someone please tell me wtf is wrong with this car ? I have to drive it almost two hours on Monday and are unsure if it's safe to do so or not

mk378

Make sure all the 2 wire sensors are plugged in properly (check the wire colors). I think the only way code 14 occurs is IACV unplugged or open circuit, or the IACV plug is plugged into something else. Or your OBDII to OBD1 conversion is mis-wired.

Engine running badly, throwing black smoke etc. it is pointless to worry about the O2 sensor. O2 sensor will not cause that; it is for fine-tuning.

got_no_sol

The car doesnt run badly that's what's got me fucked it runs like a champ pulls hard ,etc , I just have a bouncing idle between 1500/1800 rpm untill it warms up and the it drops down to like 8-900 like normal an has no issues , just rich like leave black spot on the ground you see the smoke if you look directly at the exhaust exist and when the wind blows it will move it to the side for awhile I just thought it was moister but I've driven and idled the car long enough it shouldn't be doing that and it doesn't evap it fades away , the exhaust smells like a arc it dirt bike when you first start. It

tony_2018

Go splice some wires and report back.

Jimi Hondrix

Have you checked the spark plugs for fouling (dark soot) that would indicate a fuel rich condition? Figure out if it's affecting all, some or just one cylinder. Do a power balance test by removing each fuel injector harness one at a time and listen for drop in idle. Do a compression test. Also,pull the injectors and spray into a bucket...watch spray pattern and spray timing..leaking injector(s) can cause rich condition.

got_no_sol

Compression is good , I just changed the plugs I'll check them tnrw , I'm starting to think injector also , how would spray them into a bucket without them Comjng off the rail

Jimi Hondrix

Unbolt rail and pull them out..just held in by rubber o-rings. Lube o-rings with synthetic grease before re-installing

got_no_sol

I know how they come apart , I was asking how am I supposed to keep rhem in the rail while spraying into the bucket 38-50 psi seems like it will push them out

got_no_sol

this is what my idle is doing untill the car warms up which takes forever I'm currently waiting on fuel to get here to continue on

mk378

You should not expect it to idle properly with a code 14 active. Troubleshoot the IACV circuit. Did you check the sensor plugs?

got_no_sol

I have 3 two wire sensors the one I have on my ivac is white plug , black/yellow and orange wires if I plug it in or un plug it nothing changes ,but the ground on that plug has continuity and the positive side has 12v with the ignition on the next two wire plug is green , black yellow /blue yellow going to the intake temp sensor , the third plug is white , green / white and red / yellow going to the temp sensore at the thermostat so far I've not found a diagram that matches these colors

got_no_sol

Nvm I had the ivac plugged into the intake temp sensore , give me a few I'll see if that fixes the problem and report back

Jimi Hondrix

Plastic is just a cover.. disconnect harness connection from other three inectors and test each one individually holding injector in hand or needle nose vice grips with rubber tubing over tips to avoid damaging injector ..do not overtighten grip.

JRCivic1

Wow... just because a plug is close to where it MIGHT fit doesn't mean that it is the correct one or place. You need to focus on the WIRE COLORS that are associated with the sensors and devices that properly run the engine and deliver information to the ECU.

IACV wires: black/yellow and blue/black
IAT wires: green/white and red/yellow
Purge control/Tandem valve wires: black/yellow and orange (or solid red)

So, you need to unplug the purge control plug from the IACV and plug in the proper plug (the one with the black/yellow and blue/black wires). Second, you mentioned you had the IAT plug installed on the thermostat housing... the sensor there on an OBD-1 "B" series engine is the cooling fan control switch... the wires from the original EF harness would be found in the area under the intake manifold near the alternator... there are two wires with milky white barrel connectors... one is black, the other is yellow/green. They may still be found inside a large black rubber boot that covers the original EF "D" series cooling fan switch. Lengthen these two wires and change to a plug that fits the new sensor on the thermostat housing.

Next, remove and check your IAT sensor. You have had 12v+ applied to it for some time... and it is a 5v+ circuit. Many times, the end is melted off under these circumstances... so make sure it appears OK and test the ohm resistance to verify it is within spec. Replace if damaged or fails the resistance test. Otherwise, if all looks and tests good, connect the green/white and red/yellow plug.

Obviously, if wiring needs to be lengthened to reach the sensors and devices I have described here... do so in the proper manner.

Lastly, reset the codes by either unplugging the ECU or remove the ECU and back-up fuses from the under-hood fuse box, wait 20 to 30 seconds and re-install. Crank the car and see how it idles and what codes return. With any luck, all you have left is the 22 which you said you know how to fix.

Good luck.

got_no_sol

I have done all the above stated , I'm still throwing ivac code and it tested fine on the multimeter although the car is running better a new problem has developed , if you "rev" the car and let of the rpm will drop way down and either almost kill the engine or it will kill the engine , other then that it idles 8-1k and drives fine almost like it can't compensate for the lack of throttle fast enough