SINFULLSPEED

Was driving home today, and when i down shifted i started to hear a tapping or knocking. Sounds like #1 side of engine. Taking it to shop on monday but wanna ask yall. It still drives and makes the noise mostly at higher RPMs.
Worst still is the noise it makes when started now, hard to explain but a loud clunk then normal idle.

Also im in Maryland, if anyone knows of a good honda shop that is trustworthy in the area please.

ABK

If it's pretty loud then you got a tappered cylinder (beating too much on the motor), or spun rod bearing.

$$$$$$$$$$

SINFULLSPEED

IF those are it how did they happen? and do you have any idea the cost or any shops in MD good at working on a modded honda?

THanks though gonna look into it monday

SINFULLSPEED

Bump

It is a spun bearing, assumed mroe so now but still havent taken the engine apart.

ANyone know where i can get a LS engine cheap but good on the east coast?
I need it soon, preferably low miles and No issues, i already have one with issues.

THanks for any help yall can manage because right now im without car.

95hbMatt

Here's some stuff from other posts:

Check the oil pan and pick-up for bearing backing bits. All of that stuff needs to be cleaned out before it goes back on the engine.
The good news is that you might not have spun the bearing. The bearing might be worn into the backing and broken, and the crank might only have minimal damage.

The bad news is that the rod might have been heat stressed and might need to be replaced. You should also have the rod journal polished, if possible, to remove any of the scoring on the journal.
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If you spun a bearing you'd know because it would start making a loud rapping sound like someone knocking on your engine block with a hammer and it would get a lot louder as RPM's increase. If it's a loud ticking noise it could be in the valve train. Pull your oil dipstick out and examine the oil on the end of it closely under good light. If you see small metallic "specs" in it, odds are you've spun a bearing.

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spun bearing. 2 options.

1. cut down what ever journal is bad .010 and use aftermarket .010 over bearings.

2. get another ls crank, and get new bearings, oem or aftermarket.

i reccomend another crank, and oem bearings. if you spun a rod bearing really bad, you might need a new rod as well.

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Causes: Over revving, lack of oil, or bad clearances.

95hbMatt

My PM's aren't working here at work, I'll hit you up when I get home. Also call up Brian at MidAtlantic. He might be able to hook you up. He is LSiTurbo on here. Tell him I sent ya..he knows who I am and the car.

SINFULLSPEED

Hey MATT,
Long time. Yeha a friend of mine is gonna come look at it. He is a ex honda tech and also good with aftermarket, built his own turbo for a D16
ANyway are you still stateside man?
I think if it is a spun bearing im just gonna replace the engine, and use the old one to build for power
Anyway call me or email me sr20det_ina_240@yahoo.com

95hbMatt

Sup man, naw not stateside right now. They sent my *** to Korea and here till April...sucks *****. Any updates to the car? Any pics?

SINFULLSPEED

Man i have been so short of money til past month nothing done to it. NADA was saving up for turbo before all this.
Do have a clarion MP3 head unit to replace that kenwood which died
and the side skirt is still MIA.
IF this problem doesnt empty my wallet, i should have some head work done and maybe a stripped and painted interior by Xmas
Other than this problem no complaints at all. Love throwing her around. straight line is still a little light but i go out into the mountains and have fun. Or i did.

Well anyway hope korea isnt too bad. When ya get back you should come see it.. As i said im stripping everything behind the driver and painting it black.

And by april ill have it autoXed and see hwo it makes out.

Well its good to hear from you. and i might have some questions if i have to swap in another LS. especially on the wiring (OBD2 and 1). Also is 1400 good for a swap, engine and all. I dont have a shop to do it myself. THough everything else i have been, bleed the brakes and clutch, something wierd happened when we did the clutch. anyway ill talk to you later but she is my baby and such a blast.

95hbMatt

That's cool, so I take it the suspension is holding up eh?! That rear sway bar I put on there made a big difference and the bushings too. But if you get a new LS motor whether it's obd1 or 2 it's all plug and play. You won't have to get anything extra. So what happened when you bled the clutch? Btw, I put Honda MTF in there before handing her over to ya.

I don't know, $1400 sounds steep to me. Since it only cost me $40 to put that one in..hehe I mean if you're only buying the block and having it put in it should be cheaper than that. You could probably find a shortblock for around $500..I doubt labor is gonna cost ya 1k...that's crazy!! Plus if you can find a B20 block you could go that route too...just swap over the intake mani from the LS.

SINFULLSPEED

Suspension IS GREAT.

1400 is engine and install. Long block.

Its all they had anywhere ive found #1. #2 i am gonna take the old engine and peice together a more powerful bottom end. THen turbo that motor and take the new one out.
WEll thats the plan anyway.
Will the B20 require me to change anything, wiring etc? mounts? because im scrapping the bank for this swap.

ANy help would be great, also that guy brian, i Pmed him and havent heard back. Also when you saiid midatlantic did you mean midatlantic motorsports? and either way where is this place? I have been talking with tempest racing in waldorf.

flatty

the only good shop i know is tsr on crain hwy in glenburnie
good people great prices and the know all about the h&a field

95hbMatt

So you haven't been able to find just a block? Oh, and if you do get a longblock don't forget to pull the ACT clutch and use it. There's nothing wrong with the tranny you have now right?

But yeah you'll be paying about $600 in labor...crazy!!! Just my opinion..hehe
If I was still there I would hook it up....

SINFULLSPEED

yeah they are talking about 10 hours labor. Kinda hooking me up with 60 a hour because of honda-tech other wise its 75
SICK

If i had anyone around here with a engine hoist id do it myself.
But its also time table, cant be without wheels too long. This is the busy season in my work. 6 days a week. and long days. Pre season i was pulling 80 hours a week. Its how i can now afford the swap if need be.

I need to look up more on this B20 idea. How much and how much will have to change to do it. More torque would only help.

Well im outta here for now. Gotta work at 9 and then i am going to NC because my boys dad is in the hospital.

THat guy brian with midatlantic. Is that a shop? where is it? will he hook a brotha up?

SINFULLSPEED

And if anyone is gonna give me a shop name if ya have their addy or web site or phone number it would help.
As of right now im looking at Tempist racing.

95hbMatt

He's has a shop in Baltimore...here's his info:

7418 Eastern Ave, Baltimore, MD
#410-288-1802


On the b20 swap you can use everything from the LS that you already have...wiring harness, ECU, Intake mani, and the LS tranny. All you need is the B20 block.....you'll get a little more torque and lower compression. Since you're going turbo tho you might want to get it sleeved tho. B20 blocks are farely cheap too. About the same price as the LS.

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30025


Modified by 95hbMatt at 3:12 AM 10/6/2004

SINFULLSPEED

im gonna stick with LS i think. PLus the engine is here for 650 no shipping. Freash outta a LS teg that got a turbo GSr put in. I dunno gonna have the vavles adjusted or checked at least make sure im not hearing vavle tap. But it sounds way way to loud for valve tap but who knows id love that to be cheaper. Keep some $$ in bank for turbo.
A turbo LS EG. HOTNESS
Oh i also put yoko avid es 100s on the rims. Great grip.