StealthSol

I'm having trouble with my Sol after a mini-me rebuild. It was running fine for a few days other than the ignition timing wasn't dead on and it would die at stop lights occasionally, so I drove it to work a couple times since it was getting cold and winter weather sucks on a motorcycle. I went to leave work one day and was just driving normal about to shift into third then my tach went to zero and the motor quit. Tried to start it back up a few times and all I hear is the starter spinning. It's turning the crankshaft and alternator belt, so the starter is engaging, but the starter is all I hear. It's like the motor is not even trying to crank up. I replaced the starter with a brand new one since I had warranty. I jump started it with another vehicle to make sure it had enough power and it did the same thing. Could it be electrical? I read in some places online it could be my body-transmission ground or the positive and negative cables coming off of the battery. Any help would be appreciated, riding to work is miserable at 20 degrees on a crotchrocket. Thanks.

delsolintegra

I have a 93 Sol and fixed similar problem.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?
If not it could be the main relay, or the main relay ground on the thermostat housing or the fuel pump.
There has been a lot of discussion on this in this forum.
Do a search on "main relay" and you'll find these discussions.

delsolo95

are you getting fuel and spark and cranking the engine?

NVturbo

Check your timing one more time. In my previous EG hatch, I swapped in a D16z6 motor and I thought the timing was correct. I was able to drive it to the nearby Advance Auto Parts store but when I was about to leave, I was stuck. Come to find out, the timing belt was off by 1 tooth...

98slowvicEX

first off, i would do a compression test. Then i would make sure you are getting spark to all 4 cylinders. Just take out each plug one at a time and leave it connected to the spark plug wire and put it against metal as someone turns over the motor and see if each cylinder sparks. Make sure your fuel pump is priming when you turn car on, you should be able to hear it when you turn the ignition switch to on. Check your timing, both mechanical and ignition. Sounds like you may have been running with the belt a tooth off.

Archidictus

So wait...let me get this straight.

You determined through testing that the starter was 100% working the way it is supposed to and your first instinct is to spend $100 to change it out, as if the starter has ****all to do with your car starting beyond turning the rotating assembly exactly like it was when you pulled it?

Beyond that utter retardation, let's delve into the advice you're received so far:

Main relay. A viable answer, though not entirely likely if the vehicle was running on and off and the tach was dropping to zero before it died.

Timing. No. Just no. The distributor does not have enough slop to keep the car from running properly and the mechanical timing is static - either the vehicle will run on the static timing or it won't. It might run like ****, but it'll run or it won't. Plus, if the mechanical timing is off, you know it. The car feels like it's running on one cylinder and it makes strange noises.

Compression test. No. Bad compression/blown gaskets/cracked rings/damaged valves do not present this way. This is a bad theory.

Spark to all four cylinders. Now we're talking.

One of the biggest weak-links in the heart of the 92-200 Civic and 94-2001 Integra is the distributor and distributor coil. They are both frightfully easy to replace (10 minutes or less, no lie) and not ball-bustingly expensive (probably the cost of that starter you bought).

Remove the cap and rotor from the distributor. Have a friend crank it. If there is no spark or intermittent orange bullshit instead of white-hot death lightning, replace it.

Tach signal is picked up directly from the distributor. Watch your tach if you are able to get the car started. Does it jerk or twitch or lag? Distributor problem.