MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

I swapped my 97 DX with a d16y8 and I have a few issues. First is the brakes. When I started to drive it and hit the brakes they didn't do anything, I hit them a couple times and they started working a bit but there isn't much pressure. Pressure seems fine when the car isn't running. Also, the car is running pretty rough and I'm not sure why. I never set the ignition timing, do I need to? I read that it will put itself where it needs to be unless you jumper it when you set it. I have engine codes p0453 and another for no secondary o2 sensor because the cat was deleted. I checked the cam timing and it looked good.

TomCat39

Did you hook up the brake booster vacuum line? This would do both, makes the brakes worthless as well as cause your engine to run horribly.

And yes, you still need to set ignition timing just to be sure it's correct.

Did you swap your ECU too?

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Brake booster hose is connected. I'm using the y8 ecu, y8 injectors, and y7 intake

White_EG1

Y7 intake manifold? Or just intake?


If manifold that explains why it's running like crap, but you still need to do ignition timing.

HondaPartsHero

Is this a manual car? If so you'll have to use a 2 IACV and a manifold that accepts that plus do the wiring. Did you wire up VTEC and knock?

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm using the Y7 manifold, I did the IACV wiring and VTEC and knock sensor

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

I didn't get a Y8 intake manifold, the only one I could find was automatic and it doesn't have the IACV mounting on it. I figured if I swapped the injectors over it would be ok though. Could i use the automatic Y8 manifold and the Y7 throttle body since I believe the Y7 has the IACV on the tb?

mk378

With a manual EX ECU, you have to use a 2-wire IACV, which is only found on the manual EX intake manifold. I think the injectors are the same for all models.

The brake issue is probably a coincidence, diagnose it separately. Did the brake rotors rust up while the car was waiting for engine swap? Could also be air in the lines or worn master cylinder.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

The rear driver side drum was locked up but I got it unlocked

mk378

If one or both of the rear drum brakes are not adjusted properly, you will have excessive pedal travel and poor braking all around.

Former User

Details?

FYI - This^ would cause a hard brake pedal not a soft brake pedal.

TomCat39

Thank you. I think I was thinking braking power, not really considering pedal feel. Appreciate the additional information.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

I'm ordering a manual IACV from eBay and tapping my automatic Y8 when it gets here. For now I got it running pretty good, I put in new plugs and switched back to the Y7 ECU for now. Still haven't figured out the brakes yet though. The drivers side rear had been locked up, and when I took it apart it was mangled and things were rusted/missing so I replaced the cylinder and brakes and put it back together and bled it but still have almost no brakes. Unfortunately all my bleeders are stuck, I tried PB but they wouldn't come. The driver side rear broke which is why I had to replace the whole cylinder. Any ideas on how to free up the bleeders?

EvilMunkey

Would this also cause a loss of power at 3k rpms (also have a hard brake pedal while running)? thinking I have a leaking booster myself on a '92 EG8 I recently bought, but was thinking of checking the timing as well just to make sure.

mk378

You should start a new thread. No, a vacuum leak wouldn't cause a problem off of idle speed. Inability to rev over 3000 but no CEL codes is usually because the timing belt and/or distributor is off time.

TomCat39

Isn't surging idle defined as a problem of idle speed?

mk378

That was for EvilMunkey, who jacked the thread with a different problem.

TomCat39

I got ya. You were providing a specific definition for the specific posters situation, not providing a general definition. Sorry I missed that.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Anybody ever drilled out an auto Y8 intake to convert to manual? Can I just leave the old IACV there but not hooked up?

tony_2018

You need to drill it out.2 big holes and 2 small holes, the 2 small holes will have to be tapped to bolt in the iacv. Yes the 2 wire iacv is need because the ecu looks for it.

mk378

If leaving the auto throttle body and unused three wire IACV you should fabricate a blank plate to put under the IACV gasket to block it off. This can be very simple for example use tin can material.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Is it necessary to block it off or will my car not run right with it still installed? I'm gonna try to find a blank plate on eBay or something

TomCat39

The IACV is an air bypass. You have no idea what position it was in when it was disconnected. As such, you don't know how much or how little air is bypassing the throttle body creating running issues.

Blocking it off removes it from the equation.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

the much simpler solution is to go buy a different intake manifold. z6, b7, m/t y8 are all pretty cheap.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Actually I have a z6 intake but I tried it and the throttle cable wouldn't work. What can I buy to make the z6 intake work? Can I use a Y8 manual IACV on a Z6 intake?