Fred Dukes

Doing this myself pretty sure i got the jist of it. Im using the Felpro gasket..any tips or guidence for this job?

DanielP

It's pretty obvious but make sure you clean off ALL the old gasket, if not it could lead to some major leaking. Also torque all the bolts to spec afterwards.

Fred Dukes

Thanks Daniel i have a leak i suspect is the gasket that's on currently..but after this for my birthday im changing the power steering pump and the rack and pinion.. my whole steering system is in need 202732k miles on my girl "Kelly"

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Getting the pan off is tricky. The header b-pipe has to come down (I broke a manifold stud, so use a propane torch on the nuts over and over as you remove them). Trans brackets have to come down. Flywheel cover has to come down. After removal, be sure to look closely at the studs remaining in the block. Sometimes, the old gasket leaves it's metal spacer rings behind. This will cause a sure-fire leak.

Before installing the new gasket, put a thin layer of Honda bond over the seams where the oil pump meets the block, and where the rear main seal holder meats the block. Should be 4 small seams to cover. This is always detailed in the manuals for the B-series, but not the D-series (yet they still have the same seams). D-series also get honda-bond in the 4 sports where the hump of the crank is.

Torquing the gasket is tricky. The torque valve is very low. As you go around and around, the bolts seem to be loose again, even though you already torqued them. If you torque them over and over, the gasket will start squishing out. If you start to see the gasket squishing out of the sides, you've gone to far (back it all up)