a small bit of FYI on the edlebrock D series IM manifold and triangulated strut bar
08-08-2004, 01:40 PM
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a small bit of FYI on the edlebrock D series IM manifold and triangulated strut bar
Well I seem to have had some problem with fitment of the SKunk2 IM so I swappped it out for the edlebrock 92-95 D series.
Skunk tells me 1 out of every 30 cars has fitment problems for reasons unknown
In retrospect I'm much happier with the overall design and quality from edelbrock anyway
The only fitment issue I had were the top mounting bolts, they did not machine reliefs around them so the stock bolts with there bell shape don't go all the way down - I fixed this by picking up some stainless steel 8mm 1.25 pitch nuts at Lowes
Other than that fitment was great and it comes with so many blockoffs that it could be considered a full race piece for the all motor guys, the only 2 I did'nt use are visible since the blockoffs would have been obviuos to the man should I get stopped, I even like how it comes with a replacment IM gasket and a optional block off for the IACV which includes both a custom plate and gasket, there are 7-8 vacum ports under it and they aslo relocated the IACV there for a really clean look
I would recomend you pick up some extra vacum and coolant hose to take full advantage and don't forget the anti seize lubricant before you start - BTW in the pic I have a Hondata IM gasket so it's a little farther out than stock
On mine no coolant flows anywhere through the manifold nor TB excepet the main port which I looped since I don't have a heater anymore
The strut bar is pretty straight forward install though since it's for the GSR a few things need to be done
1. Undo the uper A-Arm bolts (leaving the car on the ground so as not to preload the bases)
2. Slip the bases over the bolts and reattach the nuts halfway down so you can have some play ( you may have to pich the bases by hand to get them to slide on since every car has slightly different specs)
3. The bases have fout extra holes - if you have in the body as well pull off the 4 ruber gaskets and slip a 1.5 inch bolt through with washers on both sides and loosely tighen down
4. On mine the fuel filter line got in the way so I took a open ended wrench to the part of the filter right below the hose mounting point and tuned it clockwise slowly till I was @ the 8 oclock position, this also slightly bends the fuel harline so do it slowly or you might crease it. I also flipped it up side down since there is a bend in it ( you can get a small bender for the hard line or make a stainless one to get even better fitment )
5. On the fuel fitler there is also a sensor that needs to be moved. I simply moved it vertically down to the next bolt
6. The stock raingutter gasket has a plastic clip that protrudes down in the middle where you mount it to the firewall I sinply flipped it upside down
7. You can now mount the base plate to the firewall making sure you slip the ends into the strut mount plates but don't tighten down, Tighten the firewall mounting bolts all the way then the a-arm bolts and the other 4 bolts if you used them and finally the main 2 strut mount to reinforcement bar.
If you have a ITR style bar you can probably still use it as well. Sorry everthings not tigthened all the way in the pics because I still have alot of work to go right now
BTW the shock bolt clears all the way up for those with the adjustables the shock bolt will not an requires removing the centerpiece of the bar IT
In this pic the fuel line actually has .5 inches of clearance under the bar which is over 1in thick
The hole with no bolt is not threaded but you could still run a bolt through it by taking off the windsheild base piece thingy
Yes that 8 pound sealed battery runs my car fine - yes I'm having a second valve cover stripped and yes that is an SIR airbox and arm - yes it is a b16 TB though I'm having a second one match bored to 62mm with a taper which does bolt on stock with all four bolts - hopefully that covers it
Modified by eg1R at 10:52 PM 8/8/2004
Modified by eg1R at 10:54 PM 8/8/2004
Skunk tells me 1 out of every 30 cars has fitment problems for reasons unknown
In retrospect I'm much happier with the overall design and quality from edelbrock anyway
The only fitment issue I had were the top mounting bolts, they did not machine reliefs around them so the stock bolts with there bell shape don't go all the way down - I fixed this by picking up some stainless steel 8mm 1.25 pitch nuts at Lowes
Other than that fitment was great and it comes with so many blockoffs that it could be considered a full race piece for the all motor guys, the only 2 I did'nt use are visible since the blockoffs would have been obviuos to the man should I get stopped, I even like how it comes with a replacment IM gasket and a optional block off for the IACV which includes both a custom plate and gasket, there are 7-8 vacum ports under it and they aslo relocated the IACV there for a really clean look
I would recomend you pick up some extra vacum and coolant hose to take full advantage and don't forget the anti seize lubricant before you start - BTW in the pic I have a Hondata IM gasket so it's a little farther out than stock
On mine no coolant flows anywhere through the manifold nor TB excepet the main port which I looped since I don't have a heater anymore
The strut bar is pretty straight forward install though since it's for the GSR a few things need to be done
1. Undo the uper A-Arm bolts (leaving the car on the ground so as not to preload the bases)
2. Slip the bases over the bolts and reattach the nuts halfway down so you can have some play ( you may have to pich the bases by hand to get them to slide on since every car has slightly different specs)
3. The bases have fout extra holes - if you have in the body as well pull off the 4 ruber gaskets and slip a 1.5 inch bolt through with washers on both sides and loosely tighen down
4. On mine the fuel filter line got in the way so I took a open ended wrench to the part of the filter right below the hose mounting point and tuned it clockwise slowly till I was @ the 8 oclock position, this also slightly bends the fuel harline so do it slowly or you might crease it. I also flipped it up side down since there is a bend in it ( you can get a small bender for the hard line or make a stainless one to get even better fitment )
5. On the fuel fitler there is also a sensor that needs to be moved. I simply moved it vertically down to the next bolt
6. The stock raingutter gasket has a plastic clip that protrudes down in the middle where you mount it to the firewall I sinply flipped it upside down
7. You can now mount the base plate to the firewall making sure you slip the ends into the strut mount plates but don't tighten down, Tighten the firewall mounting bolts all the way then the a-arm bolts and the other 4 bolts if you used them and finally the main 2 strut mount to reinforcement bar.
If you have a ITR style bar you can probably still use it as well. Sorry everthings not tigthened all the way in the pics because I still have alot of work to go right now
BTW the shock bolt clears all the way up for those with the adjustables the shock bolt will not an requires removing the centerpiece of the bar IT
In this pic the fuel line actually has .5 inches of clearance under the bar which is over 1in thick
The hole with no bolt is not threaded but you could still run a bolt through it by taking off the windsheild base piece thingy
Yes that 8 pound sealed battery runs my car fine - yes I'm having a second valve cover stripped and yes that is an SIR airbox and arm - yes it is a b16 TB though I'm having a second one match bored to 62mm with a taper which does bolt on stock with all four bolts - hopefully that covers it
Modified by eg1R at 10:52 PM 8/8/2004
Modified by eg1R at 10:54 PM 8/8/2004
08-08-2004, 01:43 PM
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Re: a small bit of FYI on the edlebrock D series IM manifold and triangulated strut bar (eg1R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg1R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the windsheild base piece thingy
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the windsheild base piece thingy
</TD></TR></TABLE>
08-08-2004, 01:50 PM
#4
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Re: a small bit of FYI on the edlebrock D series IM manifold and triangulated strut bar (eg1R)
I think the word you are looking for is the COWL. Good FYI though 
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