sludge in engine?
#1
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sludge in engine?
After my car has been sitting for a good while, I get in, start it up, and try to drive off but it doesn't act right. The car boggs down and it takes a few presses of the gas pedal to get it moving right, then after a few hundred feet or after coming to a complete stop for a light or stop sign it acts like it should.
This problem is aparent on level ground and going uphill, but not when going down hill from a stop (obviously the gravitation force helps the car overcome the 'problem' that otherwise I kinda have to help it through).
At first I thought it was my transmission causing the problem.
Now I'm thinking maybe I have oil sludge in my engine somewhere, so I was thinking about changing my oil tomorrow. It couldn't hurt, plus my engine has start burning oil a bit more than before.
**I even thought about removing the oil pan and checking the oil screen until I read the manual and seen it has 18 bolts to it!!
I'm going to check out my spark plugs, and I planned to buy a compression tester for $9.99 at Harbor Freight but I don't think the compression test is that important right now, I want to figure out this bogging problem.
Please give me some idea of what this may be?
This problem is aparent on level ground and going uphill, but not when going down hill from a stop (obviously the gravitation force helps the car overcome the 'problem' that otherwise I kinda have to help it through).
At first I thought it was my transmission causing the problem.
Now I'm thinking maybe I have oil sludge in my engine somewhere, so I was thinking about changing my oil tomorrow. It couldn't hurt, plus my engine has start burning oil a bit more than before.
**I even thought about removing the oil pan and checking the oil screen until I read the manual and seen it has 18 bolts to it!!
I'm going to check out my spark plugs, and I planned to buy a compression tester for $9.99 at Harbor Freight but I don't think the compression test is that important right now, I want to figure out this bogging problem.
Please give me some idea of what this may be?
#3
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oooh yeah, I've seafoamed twice before, back in the day. Haven't done it this year though (2006)...
Imma have to look into that one.
Imma have to look into that one.
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#8
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Re: (iheartjayDem)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iheartjayDem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeahh thats where i did it.
if you unplug it and start your car it sounds like a turbo timer.
idle goes up and down..haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>do you know what a turbo timer is? and what it does for that matter?
and as for this problem, its probably not a buildup of any kind becaues that dosent "go away" shortly after startup
honestly sounds like a coolant temp sensor problem. when the engine is cold the ecu has to change the fuel delivery. if the ecu dosent know what the engine temp is, it just assumes its hot.
Modified by Kamin at 2:37 AM 7/22/2006
if you unplug it and start your car it sounds like a turbo timer.
idle goes up and down..haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>do you know what a turbo timer is? and what it does for that matter?
and as for this problem, its probably not a buildup of any kind becaues that dosent "go away" shortly after startup
honestly sounds like a coolant temp sensor problem. when the engine is cold the ecu has to change the fuel delivery. if the ecu dosent know what the engine temp is, it just assumes its hot.
Modified by Kamin at 2:37 AM 7/22/2006
#9
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well my engine coolent temp gauge works fine though.
Maybe I'll see if the times I have problems if it's registering a temperature yet...
Maybe I'll see if the times I have problems if it's registering a temperature yet...
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Re: (Paprika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my engine coolent temp gauge works fine though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The temp gauge often uses a different temp sensor than the ECU. So your temp gauge can work great, but the ecu can get a bad signal.
Not sure if temp sensor is your problem or not, poking around with an ohm meter and a manual will tell you.
The temp gauge often uses a different temp sensor than the ECU. So your temp gauge can work great, but the ecu can get a bad signal.
Not sure if temp sensor is your problem or not, poking around with an ohm meter and a manual will tell you.
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Re: (jibs)
Well I've been searching an awful lot the past hour here on Honda-Tech trying to see possible problems/solutions for my situation.
Here is the closest problem to mines I've found: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1525727
Exceptions: I have a non-vtec engine. (D15B7) and my ECU is stock (not chipped).
Maybe if you compare my original post to this one you can get a better idea of what I'm going through. Yes I have sent that user a PM asking if he solved his problem (currently awaiting a response), but I am still wanting suggestions and ideas right now!
TIA
Here is the closest problem to mines I've found: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1525727
Exceptions: I have a non-vtec engine. (D15B7) and my ECU is stock (not chipped).
Maybe if you compare my original post to this one you can get a better idea of what I'm going through. Yes I have sent that user a PM asking if he solved his problem (currently awaiting a response), but I am still wanting suggestions and ideas right now!
TIA
#12
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Re: sludge in engine? (Paprika)
i wouldn't try seafoam, i've read on here when that crap always seems to mess something up. for engine to have sludge you have had to have some really old oil or a bad gasket. IMO, change your oil doesn't hurt. the bogging is most likely gas. the gas is probably bad since it's been sitting for a while. get rid of the old gas and fill it with some 93 octane. oh, it might help to change the plugs as well.
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Actually...
I put new gas into my car about every 2-4 days. I bring it close to Empty alot, so I'm not sure there is OLD GAS still laying around.
I know bringing the tank close to empty isn't a good thing, so I put in a new Fuel Filter (like no more than 1 month ago). It didn't fix my problem but atleast I know now I don't have to change it for like... eternity.
I think my engine is burning a good amount of oil and that may be messing up the plugs. For today, I'm going to pull my plugs and look at them and take some pictures for analysis.
More suggestions appreciated, and thank you all very much for your responses so far!!
I put new gas into my car about every 2-4 days. I bring it close to Empty alot, so I'm not sure there is OLD GAS still laying around.
I know bringing the tank close to empty isn't a good thing, so I put in a new Fuel Filter (like no more than 1 month ago). It didn't fix my problem but atleast I know now I don't have to change it for like... eternity.
I think my engine is burning a good amount of oil and that may be messing up the plugs. For today, I'm going to pull my plugs and look at them and take some pictures for analysis.
More suggestions appreciated, and thank you all very much for your responses so far!!
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Re: (Paprika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could I get some advice please before I blow this car to expletive pieces?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats your best bet anyway
I have ever had any problems with seafoam. Try it out
Thats your best bet anyway
I have ever had any problems with seafoam. Try it out
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Re: (cambopheonix56)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats your best bet anyway
I have ever had any problems with seafoam. Try it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I need to. I can't decide what to do first, this car loves to act expletive-ly stupid.
Thats your best bet anyway
I have ever had any problems with seafoam. Try it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I need to. I can't decide what to do first, this car loves to act expletive-ly stupid.
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Re: (schlit)
Yeah.. I should have checked the distrobuter right after i got home. I had the idea to check the resistance of the coil, but then again my Multimeter is gay. I actually don't trust it.
I should buy a new one in the morning...
So yeah I'mma try checking the Dizzy tomorrow.
Also, the throttle body? That is like the strangest thing I could think of. How could the throttle body play into this problem? Its such a simple part!
Also, thule.. I was thinking it was my transmission too! I want to have the Transmission flushed by the local Honda Dealer, I gotta call them or pay them a visit tomorrow to see how much that would cost and what not.
I should buy a new one in the morning...
So yeah I'mma try checking the Dizzy tomorrow.
Also, the throttle body? That is like the strangest thing I could think of. How could the throttle body play into this problem? Its such a simple part!
Also, thule.. I was thinking it was my transmission too! I want to have the Transmission flushed by the local Honda Dealer, I gotta call them or pay them a visit tomorrow to see how much that would cost and what not.
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Re: (schlit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope you're kidding. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You hope I'm kidding? Yeah okay, whatever. I don't come into the model specific technical help forum to make jokes about **** I need help with. And don't come at me like I forgot to read something; I can imagine a throttle plate getting stuck if it was dirty enough, but if it did you'd think it would be accompanied by a faster idle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ever see a carboned up throttle plate? They'll stick and leak air causing the car to run rough. Sounds like your engine isn't running too good and it needs a basic tuneup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what others said before but it's like not too long ago I replaced the rotor, cap, and wires. Today I have to test all of that stuff, including my ignition coil to see if it's all within spec.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If your trans fluid was that dirty that it was seizing and causing the car to bog, you'd have other symptoms.....such as rough shifting!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The fluid needs replaced, lets leave it at that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would check the basic things before you go out and buy a compression tester.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point I guess... There isn't a real possibility that anythign a compression tester could find (can't find much other than a low compression cylinder) would be causing this problem right?
I hope you're kidding. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You hope I'm kidding? Yeah okay, whatever. I don't come into the model specific technical help forum to make jokes about **** I need help with. And don't come at me like I forgot to read something; I can imagine a throttle plate getting stuck if it was dirty enough, but if it did you'd think it would be accompanied by a faster idle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ever see a carboned up throttle plate? They'll stick and leak air causing the car to run rough. Sounds like your engine isn't running too good and it needs a basic tuneup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what others said before but it's like not too long ago I replaced the rotor, cap, and wires. Today I have to test all of that stuff, including my ignition coil to see if it's all within spec.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If your trans fluid was that dirty that it was seizing and causing the car to bog, you'd have other symptoms.....such as rough shifting!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The fluid needs replaced, lets leave it at that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would check the basic things before you go out and buy a compression tester.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point I guess... There isn't a real possibility that anythign a compression tester could find (can't find much other than a low compression cylinder) would be causing this problem right?
#24
Re: (schlit)
here is the big question if i need to clean my tb how am i suppose to do that... what would be the best way... i being totally honest here and do not have a clue! so if someone could give me some advice here.. thanks
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Re: (thule)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thule »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is the big question if i need to clean my tb how am i suppose to do that... what would be the best way... i being totally honest here and do not have a clue! so if someone could give me some advice here.. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here. I forgot to ask.
I think that if it could be a sticking plate, first check it.
Do this by hitting the gas pedal a few times sometime easy, sometimes hard, to mimick some actual driving conditions for it. Then go check for clearance between throttle stop screw and throttle lever at full close position. There shouldn't be any clearance. Then check an see if it looks like its even open still when u look into the TB.
To clean it. grab a papertowl.. wet it with carb cleaner or whatever then fully open the throttle using the lever the gas pedal cable connects to, and wipe the Throttle plate off real well, including the edges. Also clean the area surrounding the plate when it's close, to ensure that all significant surfaces are clean.
Thats how I would do it if I didn't have any better way to do it.
Same here. I forgot to ask.
I think that if it could be a sticking plate, first check it.
Do this by hitting the gas pedal a few times sometime easy, sometimes hard, to mimick some actual driving conditions for it. Then go check for clearance between throttle stop screw and throttle lever at full close position. There shouldn't be any clearance. Then check an see if it looks like its even open still when u look into the TB.
To clean it. grab a papertowl.. wet it with carb cleaner or whatever then fully open the throttle using the lever the gas pedal cable connects to, and wipe the Throttle plate off real well, including the edges. Also clean the area surrounding the plate when it's close, to ensure that all significant surfaces are clean.
Thats how I would do it if I didn't have any better way to do it.