Lmgrcivic

I put a new remanufactured motor in my car its a stock d series motor but when I try to start it, it cranks really slow and wont turn over. Any ideas why this would be its in time and the crank pulley isnt over tightend thanks

nocturnaldragon

I would check your battery first to make sure it has enough juice to turn the motor, then check the starter. Other then that Im out of idea's.

anony95ex

Once it cranks, does it fire up and run properly? If the engine was just put in and the car was sitting for a few days, it's quite possible that the battery lost some of its juice. If it'll start and idle, let it idle for awhile, then shut it off and try to start it, see if it still cranks slow.

The most common cause of this is a weak battery. Any AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts will test your battery and alternator for free.

old man neri

Battery, grounds, starter.

Also if you are in a colder climate and you are running 10W30 oil it can slow cranking down.

amckee

Did you check the firing order. Sometimes it's the simple things. Voltage on the battery should read 12.5 to 12.7 If it's below 12.3 it's weak, charge it.

92vx-t

My batteries voltage it at like 11.9 when the car isnt started, and when its running mine stays around 13.6

amckee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92vx-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My batteries voltage it at like 11.9 when the car isnt started, and when its running mine stays around 13.6</TD></TR></TABLE>You have a good alternator and a weak battery.

anony95ex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92vx-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My batteries voltage it at like 11.9 when the car isnt started, and when its running mine stays around 13.6</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not the way to test a battery. You have to load-test it for amperage. It could be putting out 11.9 volts and only 100 amps, or 11.9 volts and 500 amps.

amckee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's not the way to test a battery. You have to load-test it for amperage. It could be putting out 11.9 volts and only 100 amps, or 11.9 volts and 500 amps.</TD></TR></TABLE>Anyone whos battery reads less than 12 volts has a battery that needs charging or is living on borrowed time. (or their volt meter is bad) For 25 years all the good, charged batteries I've seen read over 12.3 volts. Most read around 12.7 . I realize though, that people like you NEED to go to Autozone to figure out if it's your battery or alternator or starter or cables. I can walk up to ANY car with a meter and tell you in about a minute exactly which problem you have. Lead acid batteries do not like fluctuations in their state of charge. If you draw one down too far you will lose one of the cells. If you see a 12 volt battery with less than 12 volts, get ready to buy another or throw the jumper cables in the trunk. That being said, alot of batteries go bad because of underperforming alternators and bad cables not allowing the battery to charge properly.

Lmgrcivic

aight guys the battery is good its brand new and no it doesnt even start. It gets to where it starts to crank fast but it just wont turn over and the oil is 5w30 the starter I havent checked yet but I will do that.

amckee

I know the motor is a reman but you still need to start with the basics. Check the firing order and, if you can, make sure the timing marks line up. Then you need to check for fuel and spark. A noid light stuck in the injector pigtail should flash as you spin the motor. This will tell you the ECU is OK and is sending signal for fuel and spark. You just need to verify that you are actually getting them both. One of these is most likely your problem.