Lee_Delso

After 1 hour of searching about slotted brembo rotors I have not found the answer to my question.

Right now I have a set of slotted brembo rotors with some aem pads, I know that there is a brake in period or bedding procedure. Now anybody have any thoughts or insights.

How long and how do I break/bedding my new rotors and pads?

IVI

just drive it normally without heavy braking for a few miles so that the pad can sit correctly into the rotor.

i never really brake it in, as long as it was machined properly and installed properly i think its fine.

AutoXer

The proper procedure is to do 2-3 hard stops from 20mph, then 30mph, then 50. 'Hard' stop meaning full pressure, keeping the tires from just locking up. This will heat cycle the rotors, and deposit some of the brake pad material onto the rotor wich will increase friction when the material is sheared from itself (on the microscopic level).

Of course you could always 'granny' them in if you're just going to be using them on the streets. This is what most auto manufacturers suggest in the manual becuase the above procedure is pretty dangerous for an average person to do, so they don't want to have any liability. Also the average person won't benifit from it anyway.

Lee_Delso

Pretty much this will be for daily driven, I kind of notice that with my stock rotors and pads are not stopping to good with my 17's. I thought maybe if I upgraded them it should help me out. For example, the other day when I was doing some hard driving and after a couple of times of hard breaking, I noticed that my car was having problems stopping like it did before. Pads still have about 75% of life left but I just want to be on the safe side.

So this weekend I'm going to flush my brake fluid and install the new rotors and pads and see if that will help.

IVI

the reason they stopped working as well after hard braking is that first of all you have 17's.

then when you hard brake constnatly the rotors and pads heat up.

heat is the enemy. when the brakes overheat they dont work anymore.

you have to let them cool off. slotted will help by having a fan-like effect cooling the brake system quicker.

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slotted will help by having a fan-like effect cooling the brake system quicker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, they won't. Slots have absolutely no effect in cooling or fade prevention.

IVI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, they won't. Slots have absolutely no effect in cooling or fade prevention.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought they did, your correct.

according to one site i just looked at, the purpose is to actually increase temprature and improve clamping force, and keep a clean surface on the pad.

however i doubt that would help you.

Lee_Delso

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i thought they did, your correct.

according to one site i just looked at, the purpose is to actually increase temprature and improve clamping force, and keep a clean surface on the pad.

however i doubt that would help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, I thought they would. Oh well maybe those aem pads wil help a little, or else I just might have to sell them and get somew 15's?

turbotime

i just went thru this whole debacle a few months ago upgrading my rotors.

Basically the consensus was slotted - slotted/crossdrilled rotors have little effect on braking performance and are much more apt to crack. Basically you pay for the bling factor.

I ended up getting brembo blanks (solid) and hawk hps. I daily drive the car and ppl who've driven it are pretty impressed with the brakes.

Oh also get SS lines while ur at it

ABK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i thought they did, your correct.

according to one site i just looked at, the purpose is to actually increase temprature and improve clamping force, and keep a clean surface on the pad.

however i doubt that would help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It also lets the gasses escape, so the brake pad actually touces the rotor instead of floating on gas.

chris_c

http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...s.htm

Lee_Delso

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chris c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...s.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does that apply to Brembo rotors?

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It also lets the gasses escape, so the brake pad actually touces the rotor instead of floating on gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's only a problem if you're using brake pads from like the 1950s . . .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lee_Delso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does that apply to Brembo rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It applies to all brake systems.

Lee_Delso

Can I slowly just break them in or do I have to do what it says?

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lee_Delso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I slowly just break them in or do I have to do what it says? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can do whatever you want.

However, the proper way to do it is the method described on their page.

Lee_Delso

Thanx, I'll wait til it's warm enough out side then I'll take it out.

caonima

tilt

I've done the Stoptech's method on 4+ cars. No probs so far.