Mr Shaggy

hey guys, i hope this is the correct forum, as i have a few problems to address, but also am looking for a little advice.--

my welcome page is here, as im a nooby
https://honda-tech.com/introduce-you...-read-3267126/


So, i'll just run down the list of things.
99 honda civic DX 1.6, stock engine-

basically, from my starter page, i went into how i ran into a rad fan issue-
radiator fan wasnt spinning, turned out that i had a crack in my rad near the top that wasnt able to be spotted until my mechanic uncle came in. diagnosed the problem as "you have a cracked radiator- basically, your thermostat isnt getting enough temperature pressure to kick the fan on, despite coolant boiling out of the top"
-short story, i replaced the rad, both hoses, clamps, thermostat, fan switch, coolant temp sensor-

either way, today i had to put another 2 pints of coolant in-
is this because there is a leak, or simply because its getting extremely cold outta nowhere?

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question two- power steering pump noise

basically, whenever i am sitting at a stoplight, stop sign, or just idling still, i hear an annoying WE-WE-WE-WE-EEK'ing, whining noise. however, the moment i press gas, the sound goes away. i also noticed, whenever i push my hood down, i can hear the same squeek. thoughts?
remedies, suggestions?

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next, and the biggest thing-
p0420, blah blah efficiency bank 1
came on the moment i replaced my ignition coil after my car died on the highway (the coil fins literally broke in half).
autozone says
bad cat, hole in exhaust before cat, bad ATF ratio (i see a lot of exhaust when i gas it), or ignition problem


the exhaust system is 16 years old, and never messed with.
cats heat shield rattles when i drive, and its rusty as fu

thoughts? i plan on replacing everything from the headers back anyway, so i can use some suggestions to stay in a $400 budget for the entire exhaust system, including headers and a cat (that must pass smog)-

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next, braking issue-

when im slowing down from 40mph, or higher/lower, sometimes when i brake slowely, i get a NOTICABLE drop in speed outta nowhere. its kinda like a roller coaster when youre pulling back into the station and youre slowing down and it just slows REALLY hard (this happens when applying the same pressure to the brake pedal and it slows REALLY hard)
that sounds really stupid, i know, but i can barely hold the pedal down, ill brake really slowly and then outta nowhere itll slow really hard while holding the same pressure


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last issue for now... hmm...

idk if its a transmission slipping or not, but i drive an auto (oh, shut up.) lol- sometimes itll shift really well, sometimes it shifts pretty shitty and late.

fluid has a translucent reddish hue.




thanks for stopping by gearheads!
-Shaggy

jonsey1886

Q1.) Your coolant system (along with all other fluid taking systems) is pressurized. At no point should you need to add coolant provided you put a full gallon of 50/50 mixed coolant into the system after the replacement rad was installed. If you have to add coolant you are either leaking it somewhere or you had a rather large air pocket in it from not bleeding the system or bleeding it improperly. Other issues that come to mind is a crappy generic t-stat (ALWAYS USE OEM T-STAT) and/or generic rad cap (ALWAYS USE OEM CAP). Sources for OEM parts are listed in the FAQ stickies as well as a list of OEM for certain items (brake pads, rotors, ignition coil, etc). Read the FAQ please.


Q2.) Based on your intro thread it's either the cracked spring or else the D/S inner tie rod boot & bellow issue. Seriously fix the boot sooner rather than later unless you want damage to the shafts and/or expensive *** p/s rack replacement job.

Q3.) Install new 02 sensors you can get both for about $27 each + shipping from RockAuto. And for the love of mike buy OEM (DENSO). The heat shield can be ripped off at the point it's at and a new one purchased from RockAuto.
www.rockauto.com

Q4.) Flush & bleed the brake system, check the front pads & rear discs for uneven wear, check for any stuck calipers.

Q5.) Run a can of SEAFOAM TransTune through the transmission and run the car at highway speeds for at least 10 minutes. While you're doing that stop at the dealer & buy honda fluid (ATF-DW-1) or ebay/google for DW-1 transmission fluid if you'd rather. Auto trans takes ~3 quarts and be prepared for the TransTune to kick a lot of sludge free. The older Honda formulation (ATF-Z1) was found to have a nasty property of sludging up after a few years so Honda changed it in 2010. Did this suggestion to mine about a month back & shifts wonderfully now at 196k.

Mr Shaggy

Jonsey1886

Wow man, thank you so much for the advice and everything- really man, that's freaking awesome. Thanks so much for your help.

I'll do everything you said.
I'll be buying 5 LS Mesh wheels with 5 nitto tires, a short ram, a power steering pump, both o2 sensors, a radio and a new Distributor cap and fuel filter for $350 in a few weeks, so I'll check the brakes then!

I've never flushed a transmission before, so hopefully the seafoam really helps out. I'm pretty excited because I really want to get better automatic low-mid/mid-high shifts as the noise / feeling doesn't sound 100% and im sure it needs a new tuneup.

Im very happy, all in all with my decision to go with my childhood dream car.
Granted, it's not metallic dark green, with a gold pinstripe, but I'll certainly take it!

It's a shame that a year of insurance and title/Tags cost more than the car

jonsey1886

Dizzy cap, o2 sensors, and fuel filter should all be OEM. P/S pump doesn't have to be OEM but stay away from cheap crap. Again read the FAQ sticky esp the part about OEM suppliers for various parts.

Also you aren't flushing the trans-doing so on a Honda automatic will kill it you are doing a heavy duty drain and refill.

electronblueej8

For the noise try and check your bushings in between your head lights that hold your hood. Adjust them and keep closing your hood and checking
till it is level on both sides. Also make sure no headlight bolts or anything are lose and shaking

jonsey1886

Probably not happening with a D16Y7 engine-those have the cat welded into the exhaust manifold from the factory unless you want to convert the entire exhaust system to an EX system. Both options will probably run you at least $400.

Just FYI the D16Y7 & D16Y5 have the same rotten (IMO) cat/em combo design. The D16Y8 ('96-'00 EX ONLY) & B16A2 ('99-'00 Si) have an in-line stand alone cat that can be removed and replaced independent of the em. Also I'm almost positive you have to have the factory exhaust config in MD to pass inspections used to live there and grateful I no longer do.

How are the various fixes coming along?

Mr Shaggy

Heya, just a small update.

Ive got a guy in VA who is selling me tons of parts from his car which is a 99 ex

5 nitto tires wrapped around LS Mesh wheels
Power steering pump, entire exhaust system, cat, o2 sensors, short ram intake.
All for $400

Waiting on tax money.

Will I run into any problems Swapping the EX to my DX?

Former User

I believe that installing the EX exhaust system and O2 sensors will require modification of both O2 sensor wires.

tony_2018

Yes it does

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

@HondaPartsHero used to (I don't know if he still does) sell an extension harness that made it plug and play. If he doesn't, I'd be willing to bet it wouldn't be hard to find anyway.

jonsey1886

Yea I've been looking into doing the same thing (swapping from my LX exhaust with integrated cat to an EX exhaust) and found O2 wire harness extensions for about $20 on eBay & Amazon.

HondaPartsHero

Still do check my sig

Mr Shaggy

Thanks for all of your info guys, as it really does help.

I had someone in VA who was going to sell me his LS Mesh/nitto x5, his catalytic converter, a short ram, dis cap, splash guard, a clean as **** valve cover, a headlight, lip, and a bunch of other stuff for 350 because he totaled his car and wanted to make a few bucks... Well, his dad found out about our deal and told him that he needs to charge 400, AND give him my tires and wheels.
Low and behold, im probably scratching the idea outright.

Now, I just want to rebuild the entire exhaust into an ex conversion. I have a budget of 450, but I don't want my car to sound like ****. Last thing I need is a popcorn popper that sounds like 80 miles an hour pulling out of the driveway.. This is where I ask for some help... I have a budget of 450-500 and I really want a decent sounding exhaust which isn't loud and sounds like **** that doesnt need a 4.5“ tip. Hell, I don't even want anything over 3, but I can go 3.5...

Its a lot to ask, but I've wanted to build this car since I was 12 years old, and finally. got one. All advice / parts lists will be greatly considered and appreciated. Sadly, eBay might be my option

But I do need a cat for emissions next month

Mr Shaggy

went ahead and tightened these, and the idle noise went away completely. my ANSI mechanic friend was wrong yet again, and it was just the hood rattling around and NOT the PS pump....

electronblueej8

Good to hear

DJBLUEB20

please let us know how the transmission fix went, did it work?

Mr Shaggy

Hey! I ended up putting a bottle of seafoam In about 20 miles before I changed the atc
I ended up buying 3 QT of oem Honda dw1 at

I ended up lifting the car, and nothing I tried got the bolt loose to drain the transmission. Ended up sliding PVC piping over my wrench and kicking the hell out of it to break it loose. It was never done before

The transmission fluid that came out had the consistency and color of what you would see coming out of a fondue machine. Thick, browner than **** atf.
Dumped 3 quarts of genuine in and immediately noticed a massive shifting difference and much better throttle and acceleration. It helped tremendously. No more loud and late shifts. Better mpg as well. Huge difference. Absolutely amazing.

I still have two more changes to go!

Mr Shaggy

Got my BAFX obd2 scanner in the mail, downloaded torque pro, and popped it in. (holy **** this thing is amazing)

got these results while attempting to diagnose my p0420 CEL

If you're unsure what you're looking at, the top meter is the primary o2 sensor voltage and the bottom meter is the second o2 sensor voltage
(i bring the RPM gauge in just after the video starts)

EDIT: since i uploaded the video to facebook, this site wont allow me to post the link- standby for 5 mins

I'm being told that the first o2 sensor should go from rich (.9v) to lean (.3v)
while the second should stay very close to .5v and not move much from there rapidly.

Should the second o2 sensor move around much, the cat is failing?
(also, the thing rattles like hell when driving)

Mr Shaggy

hondur

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if o2 #1 should be dropping below .3v

jonsey1886

The rattle is probably your heat shield as I said before. Rip it off and the rattle should go away. I still have my OEM cat on my Y7. The 0420 I had was fixed by replacing the old gas cap and O2 sensors. Try replacing the O2 sensors first AFTER testing them to ensure they're properly working

DJBLUEB20

That's awesome to hear about the transmission. Did you shift through all gears while at idle?


heres's a link that i think will help with your O2 exploration. P0141 Diagnosing O2 Sensor Heater Failure Codes - EricTheCarGuy- Stay Dirty!

O2 Sensor Basics - EricTheCarGuy- Stay Dirty!

How To Diagnose Exhaust Restrictions - EricTheCarGuy- Stay Dirty!

Hope these links help.