Didly

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I'm looking to trouble shoot instead of replacing random parts.
First things first is I am replacing spark plugs because I know they havnt been replaced in awhile.

Then I'm going to have my ICM tested and test the coil myself.
If I cannot find a y7 header I'm going to have this crack welded up.
Is it possible that the crack has ruined my catalytic converter to?
Is there a way to test it?
I really don't wanna weld the crack only to find out the cat is bad.

About the car:
96 civic automatic d16y7 100% stock
The header has a pretty big crack that has progressively gotten bigger.
I believe the crack ruined my o2 sensor at least a year or 2 ago.
I had a cel for o2

I put in a spare o2 I had and the cel is gone.
The idle has also been low ever since I noticed the crack

I took the car to get smogged immediately after replacing the o2
The car would bog out on the 15mph test..
Basically at 15 mph it will bog randomly.. As in it doesn't do it every time but, then again I never cruise at a steady 15 mph.

Loss of power until you power through it..
There is no other issues with the car.. If it's driven hard no bogs
It did this 3 times on the dyno.


Hopefully Ron can chime in and help me trouble shoot rather then wasting money.
My thoughts are plug wires, fuel filter, ICM, coil,
I suppose it could be the injectors as well.

Any help is appreciated

Former User

Currently no CEL codes like P0171 that can be thrown by a cracked manifold?

1) Have the crack in the exhaust manifold welded as that is likely the least expensive option.

2) Do a full tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, ignition timing. Test the coil and ICM - only replace if they test bad.

3) Then go from there.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

No cel at this time..

I can't even get the rotor off to access the damn ICM and coil...
And thanks Ron..
Is it possible that the cat is ruined due to the crack?
Plugs were pretty worn out..
And the timing was good (said the smog guy, he check it with a timing light on the dyno.
He said it was "about 10-11" then said "it's supposed to be 12"

Former User

Does the CEL work? If you unplug a sensor, is a code thrown? Or did you try pulling codes with a code reader?

Are you having a problem getting the screw out or removing the rotor from the shaft?

Yes, if the crack allows outside air to mix the exhaust, then the engine may run rich. The unburnt fuel ends up burning in the cat and melts the substrate. This is why I'm asking about CEL codes as a crack that lets air in will generally throw code P0171 (lean).

Sounds good.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I havnt tried unplugging a sensor.. But I had a cel for a bad primary o2 sensor.. I put a spare o2 and now no code..
I don't want to pay to have this thing welded just to find out the cat is ruined.
How do you feel about a temporary epoxy on the crack just to see if it passes smog?
And I couldn't get the screw out.
It's out now and I'm bout to test the coil.

Former User

I think the job would be relatively inexpensive if done by a welding shop. Just shop around for best prices.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

They want at least 50$....
What's the point of welding it if the cat is ruined?
You may call that inexpensive but I'm short on cash.. And my reg is 111$ the smog was 32 but 11$ more to get the cert if I pass..
Plus the tune up..
I'm trying to save as much as possible the rotor needs to be replaced

Former User

I understand. I thought the price would be lower. However, if the cat is dead, you will probably pay triple the welding price for a replacement.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's what in afraid of.

Former User

Believe me. I'm all for economical. Need evidence -- I drive Civics.

Anyway, given that code P0420 (bad cat/exhaust leak) is not currently thrown, I'd go for the $50 weld job. There's some risk that P0420 will pop up after the install but I think the risk may be worth taking in this case.

Can you post the emissions sheet that explains the failure?

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I didn't get a emissions sheet because they aborted the test because it wouldn't stabilize due to the bog.

Former User

Oh, okay. I asked because the emissions measurements would probably tell you whether the crack is causing an exhaust leak and whether the cat is bad.

Have you removed the manifold to check whether the crack goes all the way through to the other side? Can you post pictures?

Didly

iTrader: (1)

ICM tested bad.. I have another one from a vtec dizzy the guy cross ref'd the part number and said that it's the same..

I'm going to have then test that one as well.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

So my other ICM Tested bad as well..
So on a hunch I asked them to test a brand new one and guess what? It failed of course... So now I have no idea which one to use..
I'm 100$ in to the tune up with oil and filter now...
Cap, rotor, wires, + oil

Former User

Who is them? AutoZone?

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Auto zone

Former User

AutoZone has a manual instructing employees on choosing the correct ICM adaptor and how to do the test on the machine. Some employees get overwhelmed and make mistakes. I have found the need to watch them closely so they choose the correct adaptor and do the machine test as per the manual's instructions.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was watching them.. The manual didn't have the exact page they needed.. But they printed out the instructions and then flowed them.. I helped and double checked everything..
I think it's the machine
Getting frustrated now.

Former User

Go to a different AutoZone in 714. They must be as common as gum on the sidewalk.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Lol! They really are that common.
There is 3 within like 2 miles from my house..
I just almost feel like that **** is designed to fail.

Former User

Try another AutoZone so you get a clear answer. Right now, you have no idea whether the ICM is good or bad.

Also Ohm test the coil. Remove it and bring it indoors to cool and then do the tests.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Brand new one failed at 2nd autozone...

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I tested the coil but it wasn't at room temp. It was 0.7 then dropped to 0.5-0.6
It was 75ish degrees out. Lol

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I am done with it.. I'm gonna finish the lose ends and hope it was something I replaced.. The plugs were shot the **** out.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

None of the **** they sold me seems right.. The rotor is different the cap doesn't fit.. And the plug wires coil stick out an inch past the plug

Ron.. Will the dizzy cap and wires work from a z6 motor?