lejeaune

i have a 2000 civic si and i am swapping a b18c5 i bought a skunk2 intake manifold for my old b16 and it will fit my b18 i would like to know if it is better than the stock type r manifold and is worth putting on.

pdotjones

you might find some insight here.... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1871079

instrument

the skunk is supposed to be a copy of the type r
the only difference is if you're gonna nos it, which i doubt you are.

lejeaune

can't you p & p them your self

crazyguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the skunk is supposed to be a copy of the type r
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Thats what i heard too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lejeaune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can't you p & p them your self</TD></TR></TABLE>
plug and play for intake manifold? they are direct bolt on.

black_EM1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lejeaune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 2000 civic si and i am swapping a b18c5 i bought a skunk2 intake manifold for my old b16 and it will fit my b18 i would like to know if it is better than the stock type r manifold and is worth putting on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First off, with the money you spend on that "R" you can build a PoorMan's Type R, or turbo your B16 and be faster. Do a little research.

The Skunk2 is just a copy of the Type R, everybody knows that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only difference is if you're gonna nos it, which i doubt you are.</TD></TR></TABLE>



There's also an extra coolant hole on the side.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
plug and play for intake manifold? they are direct bolt on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he means port and polish. Probably just picked the term up somewhere.

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, with the money you spend on that "R" you can build a PoorMan's Type R, or turbo your B16 and be faster. Do a little research.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then again, you have to realize that there are other factors to consider. For instance, SO many people out there use that 'T' word (ie turbo) when it comes to cost effectiveness. This is particularly true when it comes to swapping vs turbo D-series. But there are some important considerations. One is cost. Sure, you can probably get together ALL the components for a turbo setup for less than an ITR swap. BUT, what about the cost of all the tuning required? What about the cost of an engine build to make the car at least somewhat reliable? When this is all taken into consideration, things start to look ALOT less attractive. Then there is reliability. Let's face it. Even the best turbo setup in the world is probably not going to be as reliable as a stock Honda motor. And while some people don't mind dealing with the additional issues that are presented by a turbocharged motor, others don't want to. The bottom line is that (1) turbocharging the stock B16A not going to be cheap if done right, and (2) turbocharging is not for everybody.

Although a poor man's Type-R can be MUCH more reliable than a turbo, there are cost issues even here. Specifically, how cheaply can you get all the parts that you need for the motor? This can especially become an issue when you consider issues like whether to use parts off your B16A OR sell it to bankroll the purchase of parts to build your motor. I have also found that building a motor to equal a Type-R is not as cheap as you think it might be. For instance, if you were to upgrade a GSR to equal an ITR, it would cost MORE than the price difference between the motors. So unless you are going to be doing some SERIOUS stuff to the motor, it might not be more cost-effective to go the 'Poor Man's ITR route'.

The bottom line is that the ITR may not be the fastest motor out there. And it's certainly not the cheapest. But it is hard to beat when it comes to a balance between performance, reliability, and value.

lejeaune

i have already bought the complete engine and lsd transmission. Itwill drop right in to my car and i am doining it my self with the the help of some grandparents and uncles. the only other part needed was a jumper harness of course and i have ordered that as well. my engine should be in, in about a week or so and i will put it in whenever i have time. i will take pictures.

B18C5-EH2

I'll go against the grain and say that I think you made a good choice by getting the Type R swap.

I've been running mine for about 7 years now with zero engine issues, EVER.

There are other "cheaper" ways to make more power, but none as reliable as a factory built engine.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll go against the grain and say that I think you made a good choice by getting the Type R swap.

I've been running mine for about 7 years now with zero engine issues, EVER.

There are other "cheaper" ways to make more power, but none as reliable as a factory built engine.

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As been said before, that (factory built reliability going down) is up for debate.

@ OP:
Seeing as how you posted here I'd say you're looking for advice, or rather "what others would do if they were in your position."

What I would do? I would sell the Skunk2 IM to some ricer who thinks the B16A2/3 is God's gift to the Honda world, then buy an Edelbrock Victor X. This is because I've seen, had, and heard of flow problems with skunk2's intake setups (TB's and IM's), while none with Edelbrock, also, they (edelbrock) have been making flow products for 70 years (this year, 70 flat).

black_EM1

In all right, the Skunk2 will be fine for you. The problem with Skunk2's TB's is that the butterfly gets stuck either open or closed, or doesn't open all the way. However, the Skunk2 IM is nothing but a copy of the ITR IM, so sell it and keep the stock one.

As for as the Edelbrock IM goes, it's more suited for F/I and high-RPM motors. For a relatively stock motor, it's not the best choice.