pumpkyn

i know i could go big and just get something else but i just need to rebuild this as i am saving money for another swap at a later date.

but i was just curious if anyone had an estiated cost of what it would be to rebuild the bottom end of a Y8 with really only new rings, bearings, crankshaft and block machined.

the motor has slight rod knock and by slight i mean it just sounds like someone is tapping on the window lightly when above 4k.

and i want to do it myself but estimates from someone else doing it would be helpful as well

Murk 'EM

why do you assume you need to replace the crank and have the block machined? if your luckey and you get to it early it will just be the bearings that need replacing.. unless you spun a bearing.. but thats a compleetly diffrent sound then rod knock.. if doing it your self and all your replacing is the rings and bearings just go to a napa, autozone somewhere and ask them for oem parts if your crank is scored have that machined getting a new crank will cost you.. get the bearings and rings then take it apart and see what else you need (pretty certin you dont need a crank or even have it machined for that matter

pumpkyn

its been lightly knocking for 6 months now that why im assuming that the crank would need to be machined. sorry that what i meant was having the crank machined.

can i remove the crank with the engine still in the car?

i have a spare block that i can rebuild on, and what would i need to do if by chance i wanted to get ARP rod bolts?

pumpkyn

Rod bearing kit at Napa for $40 does that sound right?

pgpbubble

ACL's are around $80-90; I've even seen them somewhere on here for $30-40 just don't recall ATM.

But if you've been driving for 6 months; on a knock; expect to have to do more then replace bearings.

pumpkyn

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACL's are around $80-90; I've even seen them somewhere on here for $30-40 just don't recall ATM.

But if you've been driving for 6 months; on a knock; expect to have to do more then replace bearings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well in the 6 months ive only put about 1500 miles on it

stock_honda_coupe

If your engine starts to knock, you should stop driving right away. The longer you drive the faster internal wear will happen.

Murk 'EM

i think you fucked yourself.... but we cant say anyting till yo udo it.. some just get lucky 40 for oem replacment bearings arnt bad... why would you want arp rod bolts? your not boosted are you? dont waist your money youll need to get the studs removed from the rods and the new studs put in there.. its not worth it (at least thats the way i rembember it)

pumpkyn

that what im thinking but i wont know til i tear into it. but the ting im trying to decide is if i should just rebuild the spare block i have already that will for sure need new rings, bearings, and need to be machined or use the block i have in my car now that has about 165 PSI across, no smoke, and will most likely just end up with new bearings and possibly remachined crank.

it only knocks when the car is in gear above 3-4k depends on how much throttle there is, does not knock when the car is idle and reving it up. but ever since it showed its head finally i have not gone higher than 4k and 95% of the time shifted at 2.5k