tek_civic

oh and i tried the FI forums but no luck

so i am running WAY rich and got thinking of ways to solve it without buying something too expensive as i would like to save up for a good fuel managment system, and thought about buying a fuel pressure gague and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, can i use this to rough tune my air/fuel mixture while using the vortec fmu unit? here is what i am considering doing,
install fp gague and find out what the numbers are
install fpr and adjust to numbers previously found
tune down fpr a little from above numbers to get a better a/f ratio

will this work? let me know if i should do this or just get an apexi super afc or something similar. thanks

btw heres my setup
b16a II
t28 turbo
5psi non intercooled
shitty charge piping(i mean BAD)
vortec fmu(not sure of what spring or disk it has can i check?)

any other suggestions are greatly appriciated!

tek_civic

anyone out there?

edit: i mispelled out

Evs-One

you can do that,.


Are you running and inline pump or a drop in pump right now???

I just did that on my buddies turbo car. Running rich, so we adjusted fuel pressure from 42 to 39 and it wasn't as rich, but still had adequate fuel.

I would price all this out. Hondata might end up being cheaper, and have way better results

tek_civic

hey thanks for the suggestion, i might just do the poor mans hondata, safc hack. as noone near me can tune hondata and im not shelling out the extra $$ to tune it myself and possibly(more than likely) mess the motor up due to my inexperence in tuning, but i think i can tackle a safc. i was just going to get like a $50 b&m unit and a $30 b&m gague, but im not sure now.

Evs-One

won't hurt to give it a shot.

How rich are you running??? Be careful of cylinder wash

an inline fuel pump, Vortech FMU and AEM fuel rail was enough to last my buddy/room mate 3 years on his DragIII 98 ITR, along with a missing link.

Unfortunately Hondata is what finally blew up the engine when the tuner forgot to remove the missing link

tek_civic

damn that sucks, did he have to pay for it? i havn't had acces to a wideband but my a/f ratio gague says RICH and my plugs agree, i also let out a little black smoke when cruising, and my fuel economy is ****. so ya, its a little on the rich side. and what is cylender wash? im gonna do a search but thought i throw that in here as well. thanks

Ryan C

lol just searched it... no dice, i am curious as well

tek_civic

ok did a search on yahoo and here is what comes up http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Ser...h.htm

in case your lazy its where your engine doesn't start up right away and just puts a lot of fuel into the cylinders, enough to where the fuel reaches its saturation point and washes the oil off the cylinder walls causing there to be metal to metal contact(pistons, rings, to cylinder) which can cause scuffing of the cylinder walls which can cause loss of compression and exhaust blowby where the combustion will blow by the rings and contaminate the oil or oil will leak into the combustion chamber.

on a side note this site i stumbled on seems to have some really good info, here is a link to their index
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn that sucks, did he have to pay for it? i havn't had acces to a wideband but my a/f ratio gague says RICH and my plugs agree, i also let out a little black smoke when cruising, and my fuel economy is ****. so ya, its a little on the rich side. and what is cylender wash? im gonna do a search but thought i throw that in here as well. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

he didn't pay for it. I ended up building him a new engine with solid deck sleeves with a 84.5mm sleeve..it's a nice setup tho. It was our buddy who tunes it...Hondata was cheap and tuning is free. The build was gonna happen, just not that soon

you answered yiour own queastion, but here's what I told Ryan C in a PM

"when there is too much
fuel on the cylinder walls and it washes away the oil, causing
loss of lubrication for the piston...scarring the piston and/or
cylinder"

I would get a FPR and go from there. You'd be fine with it set around 38 or so...depending on how the rest of the fuel is setup

tek_civic

hey thanks, sux about your buddies motor, and it sucks even more when the tuner is a friend, but it sounds that now the motor is going to be even better so it sounds good. im probibly going to hold off on all tuning for a little bit since its running fine right now and i have a road trip to my new home in a few days, so i will let it wait a little, or maybe i will get the fpr and fpg anyways and maybe get a little better gas milage(will that change in fuel psi make a dif in milage?). i dunno we will see. thanks for the advice.

oh and have you heard anything good or bad about the b&m adjustable fpr? its the kind where you cut your old fpr and install a new hat to allow for tuning, thats what im looking to get.

Evs-One

I don't have personal experience with the B&M, so I can't help you on that.

And yeah, it's a monster. Got about 5k miles on it already and it's rediculous at 7 psi...let alone when it goes up to 18 tuned and 400+ whp

tek_civic

hey when you tuned your buddies fpr did you leave the vacume/boost line attached or did you block it off? thanks

Evs-One

it was a GSR Civic coupe with Greddy kit and blue box.

We just fired it up, left it at idle, and back it off until the pressure dropped a few psi to 39