Shifter sucks.
#1
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Shifter sucks.
My shift linkage sucks ***. The part where it connects to the tranny is all loose. I can't see/think of any way to tighten that part up. It seems like the little washers or whatever is in there are totally worn out, there is just a lot of slop. The shifter has as much left/right movement in gear as in neutral.
Can i fix this?
Where can i get new OEM or aftermarket replacement shift linkage for not to much?
I really want the shifter to feel solid like it did before my b16a2 swap. Plus i'm worried about the loose linkage increasing wear rates on my tranny?
Thanks!
Can i fix this?
Where can i get new OEM or aftermarket replacement shift linkage for not to much?
I really want the shifter to feel solid like it did before my b16a2 swap. Plus i'm worried about the loose linkage increasing wear rates on my tranny?
Thanks!
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Re: (GreenEX)
Just making sure but you do have a roll pin connecting the shifter linkage to the transmission right. No matter how good a fit it is a bolt and nut will never be tight enough to use in place of a roll pin (aka bitch pin). You have to have one of those in there or else youll never get the play out of your shifter. A lot of people just replace the pin with a bolt and nut during a motor swap because its alot easier then to smash the pin back in but thats a big no no....
If you do have a roll pin in there the next thing to do like the guys above said is to get some prothane or energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I just installed some on my car this weekend and they made a drastic difference. The shifts feel so much more precise. I got the energy suspension bushings off of ebay which rang up to about $25.00 shipped, which is an excellent deal for what it does in the end.
Give those a try and I hope you get it all worked out.
If you do have a roll pin in there the next thing to do like the guys above said is to get some prothane or energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I just installed some on my car this weekend and they made a drastic difference. The shifts feel so much more precise. I got the energy suspension bushings off of ebay which rang up to about $25.00 shipped, which is an excellent deal for what it does in the end.
Give those a try and I hope you get it all worked out.
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Re: (aw1234dude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aw1234dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just making sure but you do have a roll pin connecting the shifter linkage to the transmission right. No matter how good a fit it is a bolt and nut will never be tight enough to use in place of a roll pin (aka bitch pin). You have to have one of those in there or else youll never get the play out of your shifter. A lot of people just replace the pin with a bolt and nut during a motor swap because its alot easier then to smash the pin back in but thats a big no no....
If you do have a roll pin in there the next thing to do like the guys above said is to get some prothane or energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I just installed some on my car this weekend and they made a drastic difference. The shifts feel so much more precise. I got the energy suspension bushings off of ebay which rang up to about $25.00 shipped, which is an excellent deal for what it does in the end.
Give those a try and I hope you get it all worked out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like it is the bitch pin to me. User "Emerika" on here wrote up a nice little article (including pics which may be helpful) a little while back.
You can search through his posts to see if you can find it. Or ask him about it. But same exact symptons as he had(shifter will go left and right WHILE in gear).
If you do have a roll pin in there the next thing to do like the guys above said is to get some prothane or energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I just installed some on my car this weekend and they made a drastic difference. The shifts feel so much more precise. I got the energy suspension bushings off of ebay which rang up to about $25.00 shipped, which is an excellent deal for what it does in the end.
Give those a try and I hope you get it all worked out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like it is the bitch pin to me. User "Emerika" on here wrote up a nice little article (including pics which may be helpful) a little while back.
You can search through his posts to see if you can find it. Or ask him about it. But same exact symptons as he had(shifter will go left and right WHILE in gear).
#7
Re: Shifter sucks. (Sketch_hs)
Alright, basicly lift up ur car.or something of the sort, and you will see two rods that go back to ur tranny. one will be connected to ur shifter and one will be the thing that holds it to the body. it seems to me(i might be wrong) that your spacer on ur shifter is rotted or that you need to get new bolts and get it off somehow and put on a new one. its not that hard. just a good rachet and some S clamps.get it off and replace the bushings spacers or get some fitting nuts and bolts to replace. its basicly just taking out the shifter rod and linkage and finding the prob and putting it back.good luck
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Re: Shifter sucks. (civicSIhatch93)
thanks for all the replys guys.
The bitch pin is in. But it's not a bitch at all with the 8mm punch from sears.
Looking at the linkage on my shops lift, it's just like loose everywhere. All the bolts are tight but it's loose where the non replacable washer things are... And a little loose where the shifter connects to the linkage.
It's so loose it sometimes buzzes at certain RPMs...weak.
best product/solution?
The bitch pin is in. But it's not a bitch at all with the 8mm punch from sears.
Looking at the linkage on my shops lift, it's just like loose everywhere. All the bolts are tight but it's loose where the non replacable washer things are... And a little loose where the shifter connects to the linkage.
It's so loose it sometimes buzzes at certain RPMs...weak.
best product/solution?
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Re: Shifter sucks. (doublejz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">energy suspension bushings, like $10</TD></TR></TABLE>
which set do i need for my car and where should i order then for a good price?
which set do i need for my car and where should i order then for a good price?
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#14
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Re: Shifter sucks. (Sketch_hs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all the replys guys.
The bitch pin is in. But it's not a bitch at all with the 8mm punch from sears.
Looking at the linkage on my shops lift, it's just like loose everywhere. All the bolts are tight but it's loose where the non replacable washer things are... And a little loose where the shifter connects to the linkage.
It's so loose it sometimes buzzes at certain RPMs...weak.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds like ur problem. it will cause buzzing at speed, as well as shifter slop. make sure u have the right shifter for your application (b series have wider bases than d series shifters), and that the part of the shift linkage that bolts to the shifter itself isnt all mangled
The bitch pin is in. But it's not a bitch at all with the 8mm punch from sears.
Looking at the linkage on my shops lift, it's just like loose everywhere. All the bolts are tight but it's loose where the non replacable washer things are... And a little loose where the shifter connects to the linkage.
It's so loose it sometimes buzzes at certain RPMs...weak.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds like ur problem. it will cause buzzing at speed, as well as shifter slop. make sure u have the right shifter for your application (b series have wider bases than d series shifters), and that the part of the shift linkage that bolts to the shifter itself isnt all mangled
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Re: Shifter sucks. (dantastic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that sounds like ur problem. it will cause buzzing at speed, as well as shifter slop. make sure u have the right shifter for your application (b series have wider bases than d series shifters), and that the part of the shift linkage that bolts to the shifter itself isnt all mangled </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll check it out.
that site it out of stock. where else can i order them from?
that sounds like ur problem. it will cause buzzing at speed, as well as shifter slop. make sure u have the right shifter for your application (b series have wider bases than d series shifters), and that the part of the shift linkage that bolts to the shifter itself isnt all mangled </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll check it out.
that site it out of stock. where else can i order them from?
#16
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Re: (civboy115)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civboy115 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might as well do everything at once...shift linkage, bushings, and a short shifter </TD></TR></TABLE>
why short shifter? Thats personal prefference. I went from a stock shifter, to a short shifter, back to my oem civic shifter, and now I have an oem gsr shifter. Both my oem civic shifter and my gsr shifter are better than that crappy short shifter ever was. Espescially the gsr shifter. Dual bend rocks!
why short shifter? Thats personal prefference. I went from a stock shifter, to a short shifter, back to my oem civic shifter, and now I have an oem gsr shifter. Both my oem civic shifter and my gsr shifter are better than that crappy short shifter ever was. Espescially the gsr shifter. Dual bend rocks!
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Re:
I just replaced the items highlighted in the image this week:
What a difference it made! Most of mine had completely broken down and made it seem like I had never installed the ES bushings elsewhere in the shifter assembly. There was tonnes of slop and it was buzzing like mad when driving down the road.
If anyone's considering replacing theirs, I highly recommend it. My OEM shifter has no side-to-side wobble and shifts nice and crisp now. The buzzing's all gone too.
Just so you're aware, if you go into the local Honda dealership to replace those parts, ask for the kit. The parts guy found out from one of the senior parts guys that there was a kit AFTER I ordered mine as individual pieces. That resulted in me not getting the 4 11mm O-rings that go on the brass bushing (nothing that a trip to Home Depot couldn't fix for a few cents though). If you order the kit, you get the O-rings included with it, and price is the same as ordering the parts individually.
Out of curiousity, are there any aftermarket kits for those pieces that might be more durable? The OEM ones are plastic/rubber and although I'm sure they help to dampen the noise tranmitted into the cabin through the lever, I don't like the fact that they breakdown so easily.
What a difference it made! Most of mine had completely broken down and made it seem like I had never installed the ES bushings elsewhere in the shifter assembly. There was tonnes of slop and it was buzzing like mad when driving down the road.
If anyone's considering replacing theirs, I highly recommend it. My OEM shifter has no side-to-side wobble and shifts nice and crisp now. The buzzing's all gone too.
Just so you're aware, if you go into the local Honda dealership to replace those parts, ask for the kit. The parts guy found out from one of the senior parts guys that there was a kit AFTER I ordered mine as individual pieces. That resulted in me not getting the 4 11mm O-rings that go on the brass bushing (nothing that a trip to Home Depot couldn't fix for a few cents though). If you order the kit, you get the O-rings included with it, and price is the same as ordering the parts individually.
Out of curiousity, are there any aftermarket kits for those pieces that might be more durable? The OEM ones are plastic/rubber and although I'm sure they help to dampen the noise tranmitted into the cabin through the lever, I don't like the fact that they breakdown so easily.
#20
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Re: Shifter sucks. (Sketch_hs)
All the replies here are good, but they fail to address the U-joint right behind where shift linkage "bitch-pins" to the tranny. I had the same problem. My vertically oriented (front) pin in the U-joint was way floppy. I ground off rivet, took bushings out, wrapped inner and outer bushing with teflon tape, then reversed bushings (so lower was now upper, etc) and reinstalled.
I used M8 bolt w/ nyloc nut to complete installation.
I bet the shifter rebuild kit from Honda and the Energy bushings would help too!
But that sloppy U-joint has got to be addressed.
I used M8 bolt w/ nyloc nut to complete installation.
I bet the shifter rebuild kit from Honda and the Energy bushings would help too!
But that sloppy U-joint has got to be addressed.
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