shaving door moldings
#3
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Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
thats prolly the worse thing you can do .. shave em that is.. just paint em.. i know there are ppl that have shaved em but it looks odd to me .. i guess cause i like em
#5
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Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
Paint them cause of course my em1 has stock painted but it looks good with painted ones.. and yes people have done it..millions of times...just ....you know what im gonna say...so i wont say it..
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#8
Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
I actually did that to one of my fifth gens. Problem is you can't just use plain old bondo. Well you can but out of the first ten times the door gets slammed it WILL crack. The best way is to cut sheetmetal strips and weld them in and then topcoat it with bondo for shape only, not filling the entire area where the molding was. I have a friend that did use longhair bondo (basically fiberglass impregnated bondo) to do the whole job and no cracks as of yet. Looking back I would have rather painted the moldings or got the thin kit but you live and learn. If you have any specific questions let me know.
#9
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Re: shaving door moldings (HuntsvegasHatch)
have you actually done the welding method? did you like spot weld a strip here and there until it was eventually all welded? i don't plan on filling it with bondo and was a little scared about welding strips on because of the doors getting warped.
#10
Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
yes i have welded that and shaved the handles antenna and keyhole on the hatch, Unless you are VERY comfortable welding and have a lot of experience you will warp the door. It is really easy to do. I have been welding a long time and I had some distortion come up on the passenger side.
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boy.. this thread shoulda been here last week.. i just bondoed my doors and painted the car, and the **** fell off when i slammed the door. now i gotta pry the bondo off and put back the stock trim on then paint it... crap
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Re: (civiccoupe94)
i like how the cx is, no black trim but the indentations are there, no rust and no welding after having my crx rusting out on those i'm never buying a car with side moldings again
#16
Re: (stingray2772)
shaved doors are pretty lame with a stock looking car.. unless you have a new body all around, just spend your money on hp. You can also buy the mad tight jdm thin side moldings...
#17
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Re: (GripStar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GripStar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">, just spend your money on hp. </TD></TR></TABLE> i have a h22a,im ready to spend some dollars to make it look pretty
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It cost me about $1,000 to do it right, but it does look nice. I just did handels, did the poppers myself, and paid to have the welding and painting done right. I love the look, and I meet a lot of people when they see the doors pop open, but the money could have been better spent...
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Re: (knoj)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knoj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It cost me about $1,000 to do it right, but it does look nice. I just did handels, did the poppers myself, and paid to have the welding and painting done right. I love the look, and I meet a lot of people when they see the doors pop open, but the money could have been better spent...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the paint looks bad from that angle, cuz if you paid 1000 for that paint job you got ripped.
also to the original poster you will get 99% flames because people on here wont do anything to ther car unless its m4d tyte JDM. i mean these are the people that shave integra side molding to look like a type-r, they will paint their roofs black because some cool jdm guys did it, they will spend 100 on a jdm ash tray because it has velvet lining, talk about money being better spent else where.
but yes the correct way to do it is, wled in filler plates and only use mar glass to shape the rest, take your time and tack one side then tack the furthest point away from it, then take your time and let it rest then tack again later. its all about patience when not getting it to warp
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the paint looks bad from that angle, cuz if you paid 1000 for that paint job you got ripped.
also to the original poster you will get 99% flames because people on here wont do anything to ther car unless its m4d tyte JDM. i mean these are the people that shave integra side molding to look like a type-r, they will paint their roofs black because some cool jdm guys did it, they will spend 100 on a jdm ash tray because it has velvet lining, talk about money being better spent else where.
but yes the correct way to do it is, wled in filler plates and only use mar glass to shape the rest, take your time and tack one side then tack the furthest point away from it, then take your time and let it rest then tack again later. its all about patience when not getting it to warp
#20
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Re: (built562)
I did mine, or should i say still doing it.
Downside to doing it yourself is that if you stop once you wont get back to it for a good while, espeically when its your daily driver. If your going to do it, dont stop go all the way through until your done.
What i did:
Tacked some sheetmetal over the holes
Used Duraglass over it.
Puddy over that and to finish.
Downside to doing it yourself is that if you stop once you wont get back to it for a good while, espeically when its your daily driver. If your going to do it, dont stop go all the way through until your done.
What i did:
Tacked some sheetmetal over the holes
Used Duraglass over it.
Puddy over that and to finish.
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Re: (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did mine, or should i say still doing it.
Downside to doing it yourself is that if you stop once you wont get back to it for a good while, espeically when its your daily driver. If your going to do it, dont stop go all the way through until your done.
What i did:
Tacked some sheetmetal over the holes
Used Duraglass over it.
Puddy over that and to finish. </TD></TR></TABLE>
For mine, I taped the back of the holes (to keep the fiberglass from getting into the door and no welder), laid a layer of fiberglass, duraglassed over that, then bondo. Only a short while until we can paint the whole thing!
-Shane
Downside to doing it yourself is that if you stop once you wont get back to it for a good while, espeically when its your daily driver. If your going to do it, dont stop go all the way through until your done.
What i did:
Tacked some sheetmetal over the holes
Used Duraglass over it.
Puddy over that and to finish. </TD></TR></TABLE>
For mine, I taped the back of the holes (to keep the fiberglass from getting into the door and no welder), laid a layer of fiberglass, duraglassed over that, then bondo. Only a short while until we can paint the whole thing!
-Shane
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Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
i shaved mine, took for ever. Where the fender and door meet sucked really bad. You have to angle it back or when you open it crunched.... yea i found out the hard way. Just tiger haired it... still looks good after 2 years :-P I'll post a pic later.
#23
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Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
The safest and easiest (and by easiest i mean no welding) is to fill the area with a Fiberglass/filler mixture like Tigerhair or Marglass (every maufacturer calls it somtwething different) then shape it with regular filler. if you want to be a pimp about it then after that go over with a type of finishing putty. Its the same as regular filler except it made of finer grit filler. The undesputed best way to do it would be to weld up the holes with a plate and the lead it in. The worst way is to go down to walmart buy a gallon of bondo and paved that S.O.B. The wait till winter (if your best friend doesn't slam the door and make it crack) and with the cold weather it will pop out. Lead is best because it expands at the same rate of the door. I like Evercoat the best, they are top of the line. if the JDM freaks keep hating on you you can always go for evercoats FiberTech (it contains Kevlar) that should shut them up.
IMO i can go with or without moldings but atleast have them painted, and the handles and mirrors too
IMO i can go with or without moldings but atleast have them painted, and the handles and mirrors too
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Re: shaving door moldings (Vintech)
Without the moldings, when people open their car doors carelessly, they slam into your good paint job. I'd keep the moldings
If not the see the following
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vintech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The safest and easiest (and by easiest i mean no welding) is to fill the area with a Fiberglass/filler mixture like Tigerhair or Marglass (every maufacturer calls it somtwething different) then shape it with regular filler. if
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If not the see the following
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vintech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The safest and easiest (and by easiest i mean no welding) is to fill the area with a Fiberglass/filler mixture like Tigerhair or Marglass (every maufacturer calls it somtwething different) then shape it with regular filler. if
</TD></TR></TABLE>
#25
Re: shaving door moldings (legron_m)
to shave your doors, you have to remove those ****** ugly molding
then you weld a metal slice in the hole that the molding left. Then your take some fiberglass puttey and fill out the rest on the hole. To make a good finition you take finition puttey and you start spread it from the mid door to the bottom to keep the round shape of the door. Have fun this is very long to do and if your not good to make a beautiful finition don't even try it and if you don't know how to weld or if you had never made any body job forget it too.
Sorry for my english i'm a french speaker
then you weld a metal slice in the hole that the molding left. Then your take some fiberglass puttey and fill out the rest on the hole. To make a good finition you take finition puttey and you start spread it from the mid door to the bottom to keep the round shape of the door. Have fun this is very long to do and if your not good to make a beautiful finition don't even try it and if you don't know how to weld or if you had never made any body job forget it too.
Sorry for my english i'm a french speaker