JReed

ok, so somebody hit my car and i'm having to pay for it instead of putting it on insurance, and since i was paying i wanted to go ahead and get the sideskirts painted... the guy at the bodyshop said they couldn't do it. i asked told him i knew of people that had had it done to their cars and he said it was a textured plastic and something about the paint not sticking... so whatever, how many of you have had your sideskirts painted without having problems of peeling... he said they wouldn't do it because they wouldn't be able to guarantee it wouldn't peel after about a year... settle this for me, do i need to just go somewhere else and get 'em painted, or does this guy know what he's talking about...

drunknbass

i uderstand why. it "prob" wont peel under normal driving but they are prob being safe. ive seen paint peel off before same with urathane

BlackDeuceCoupe

I'm still trying to figure out how they get Teflon to stick to frying pans, since Teflon is non-stick, you know? If they can do that, they can do anything...

JReed

yeah, but will paint stick to the sideskirts on a '00 EX.... i know people have had this done before so when the guy told me that i was like wtf... somebody prove him wrong... i don't wanna have to pay $350 for a set...

rodrez.

I have an older Civic (93), but my side skirts have been painted for about 2.5 years, w/out any problems. As long as they're prepped correctly, using a flex additive in the paint, you shouldn't have any problems. When I had a CRX, before I bought a Mugen kit, I had all of the moldings, skirts, and lip color matched, had no problems with it, but again, it was prepped correctly by a quality paint shop

Echo7847

Mine are painted, I had em done when the car went in for a full paintjob. That was months ago, and they still looks the same as when I first got it back.

kommon_sense

My sideskirts were painted just over a year ago and still look great. As for the paint not sticking... I thought that was what primer was for?

cd5_2NR

who's painting your car...they probably dont have the best stuff if they're making excuses that the paint wont stick...i've heard that certain chemicals make the paint stick to certain things...obviously that paint shop doesnt have this...i've had mines painted...including the sidemoldings and the paint does stick...try finding another spot..a better one to paint your car...

rodrez.

I would simply ask them "Do you use flex additive when painting plastic trim?"

JDM_SiR_II_EG

urethane paint might be ok, if you choose acryllic...it would be like painting them with finger nail polish, one good twist and it will all crack/chip. urethane paint is what cars are painted with stock, it has alot of flex in it, as it is urethane but its pretty pricey

IgniteTeg

Mine are painted also and their fine. No problems here.

EKFerioHawaii

Follow what everyone else said. If you decide to get a shop to do it, make sure they prep correctly, use flex additive, use a adhesion promoter, and they can color match the paint correctly.

I hate when fenders don't match hoods. Why? Because I'm a victim of that. LoL

FlatlineEF9

yeah, just make sure they do it right. mine are painted and never had a problem yet, even though i bottom them out at least every day.

eknine

yeah ive had mine painted for a while, but where the paint is coming off... ill claim resposibility, damn uneven driveways

bzyrice

yah I took mine to a paint shop and they game me the same excuse.. So i said to the guy that his paint shop sucked *** wipe ad went somewhere else and gave them my business... its been a year and everything still lookin good .. just find the right shop.. som shops are dicks cuz they dont want your business.. i personally felt that shop was racist and just didnt want to paint my shiet!!

1 point 6

Well BDC im glad you asked...

Before we dive into that, let's dispense with a technicality: Teflon was DuPont's original brand name for what now goes by various unattractive pseudonyms, such as "non-stick coated aluminum cookware," as well as a poetic variety of brand names. I'll call these slippery coatings "non-sticks."


In the early days, what the non-stick stuck to was a mechanical issue.

Manufacturers textured a pan by blasting its surface with grit, gouging little pits in the aluminum, or by spraying the cookware with a micro-lumpy ceramic coating or stainless steel, which formed mini-mountains as it hardened.
These textures gave the long, slippery non-stick molecules much more to brace themselves against. And when the non-stick wore off the peaks of the mini-mountains and micro-lumps there was still enough clinging to the slopes and valleys to keep the flapjacks flipping. Sort of.

Trouble was these methods didn't hold up very well under normal household use, leading to a chorus of feminine voices across America, singing out in harmony, "TOUCH THAT FORK TO THAT PAN AND YOU'RE A DEAD MAN." (To the credit of these women, of whom my grandmother is one, their 1964-vintage Teflon still appears virginal, while I have forked to death a long, sad series of pans.)


The bottom line was that the non-stick didn't stick to the pan long enough. So, back to the drawing board.

The basic non-stick molecule is a polymer, or chain, of fluorine atoms and additives such as carbon and hydrogen. The longer this chain, the tougher it is; but a molecule that's too long gets viscous and hard to handle.
To move beyond mere mechanics, the frying-pan engineers added a sticky molecule to the non-stick molecule. Non-stick was now applied in coats, with the bottom coat containing the sticky additive that held to both the metal pan and the non-stick molecules. A coat of non-sticky non-stick went over that, non-stick and non-stick clinging together lovingly. A final non-stick layer, spiked with teensy bits of ceramic or other tougheners, protected the softer guts.

This is how lots of non-sticks are made still: Grit-blast the pan; spray on a sticky primer coat, a midcoat, and a tougher top coat; and bake. Oh, yeah: Add colors if you like -- the fluoropolymer is naturally white, but cooks prefer somber saucepans. You may also add a handful of mica, a sparkly rock, to glimmer up the finish.

But the latest non-stick revolution, probably lost on cooks, is a non-mechanical means of sticking non-stick to aluminum. In this method, which DuPont calls "smooth technology," new-and-improved sticky molecules in the primer coat sink as the pan bakes and chemically lock themselves to smooth, unmolested metal. The upper layers fuse together better, and you get a tougher pan.


But even tough non-stick isn't very tough.

Each of the three coats is only about one one-thousandth of an inch thick, for starters. And non-stick softens as it heats, leaving forks as lethal as ever. Plus, raw non-stick is baked on at only about 800 degrees for four or five minutes, so you can toast it if you leave it on the burner with nothing in the pan. Then a rubber spatula, even in the hands of the gentlest grandmother, will slowly disentangle the long, slippery molecules and carry them away.
Which raises the question: Are there health consequences to ingesting all those non-stick molecules? Not to worry, says DuPont's Kris Mohan: We are, after all, talking non-stick. "It's completely inert, and it passes right through the body without interfering with anything."

And that BDC is how teflon sticks to the pan.

rodrez.

Holy ****!

BlackDeuceCoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy ****! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahahaha! No kidding! Thanks, 1 point 6.

Bottomline is: prepping, just like the sideskirts...