xXxHOLYMANxXx

Well i have a 98 civic hx that i want to build as a project. I have a complete b16a2 that needs a rebuild i pulled from my em1 when i replaced it with a sir ii b16a and a complete jdm b18b that's in the hx now and a blown b18b1 with a good head and possibly picking up a ls block with a spun rod bearing. I'm having trouble deciding what i should do as far as a build and what route since a good tuner isn't close. Probably around a 4 hour trip one way. just trying to see what would be the most cost efficient way to make around 250-300whp with what motors i have already.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

All of them. With turbo. Without turbo? None of them.

jbpnoman

So let's just make sure we have your available parts laid out.

B16A2 complete, blown
B16A complete, functioning
B18B1 complete, blown, good head
B18B1 complete, blown, good head

Take the working parts out of the first blown LS, put them in the second blown LS. Throw away the busted LS ****. You'll want to get the crank surfaces line honed. Pull the pistons from the B16A2, put them in the LS. Sell the LS heads for $75 a pop. Sell the working B16A for $600. Sell the B16A2, minus the head and pistons, for whatever you can get for it.

Put the B16A2 head and pistons in and on the LS block. Put a 19T, or GT28RS on your new LS/V. Make 250 to the wheels all day long, with a healthy powerband and decent torque. If you want even more, take the money from the **** you sold and buy some forged pistons and rods, and make 300-350 on a solid tune.

xXxHOLYMANxXx

Well i have the b16a in my dd em1 but i have b16a2 that's just needing a rebuild cuz its pretty worn. A fully functional jdm b18b and a b18b1 with a rod through the block. And i know a guy with a b1 block with a spun bearing but no head i was thinking of getting cuz its cheap. And i was thinking lsv too .

DCRB

why did the rod go through the block? spun bearing or hydro lock?

xXxHOLYMANxXx

Not really sure. It was in my old eg hatch when i bought it and swapped out with the jdm b18b. But from looking at it the rod bolts had broke. But the previous owner said they had just had the head reworked a couple weeks before that rod went through.

jbpnoman

If the block threw a rod, just throw it away. The block is obviously damaged, and the rotating assembly will be damaged as well.

xXxHOLYMANxXx

I know that block is junk. But i may be picking up another b1 block with a spun bearing and rebuilding it to mate with the head i have on the blown b1 just to have as a backup.

sleepyaccord96

sell everything and put something with bigger displacement. k20 or h22...do something that actually has some decent torque and with some decent bolts on can make a very fun car around town and at the track

just my .02 but do as you please.

but a b set up regardless of what you choose to do has a lot of potential! And it seems as if you have you hands on quite a bit of b motors.... be thankful it is not a d series, i love the people who boost little d16's and claim they have 200+ whp when in reality they do not and only have as much or less than a stock b.

xXxHOLYMANxXx

oh trust me if i had the money to do a k swap that would be the route i would go. but i don't have the funds for anything that cool yet. so i'm just going with something i already have available more than likely.

sleepyaccord96

i understand, althought you could do a turbo set up on the b. Have you considered H2B? that would be a nice set up in the hx because it is a little bit heavier than say a 92 00 hatch

jbpnoman

By less than 100 lbs. Inconsequential. It's also quite easy to get 200 to the wheels out of a healthy, bone stock D, but once again, doesn't matter.

B18B1 + B16A2 head + GT28RS = 250 to the wheels all day long. Toss in forged internals, 300+ easy. An H, or H2B swap would work as well, but proper forged internals would be pricier because of the FRM sleeves.

xXxHOLYMANxXx

i agree there. and yet again i would have to buy an h22 when i already have a b16a2 and a b18b. but the trans i will be using is from a 95 gsr with no lsd. but i like the gearing and how smooth it shifts compaired to the ls trans i had and the s4c trans in my em1. and if it wasn't for some tard in a silverado plowing into my eg hatch and totaling it all this work would be going into it. but what i'm thinking is trading a b series dust shield to this ls block off this guy and rebuilding it with forged pistons and rods and replacing the crank and a bore. buying lsvtec kit and taking my b16a2 head and getting a skunk2 valve train and going boost. my biggest issue is finding a close tuner to do my tune. i live in south eastern ky and don't really know of any closer than going to bowlingreen or a ashland.