Ron454321

I had some work to do on the front end of mt 92 hatch this week and figured since I was in there I would remove the noisy brake dust shields. They were pretty worn where it had been contacting the rotors. After removing them and putting the rest of the car back together I noticed I still have a noise that sounds like the shields are still there. It is very consistent with my speed and I was wondering if there were any other obvious places I should check to see where this is coming from. I did replace the front pads, installed my koni/gc coil-overs and replaced the front passenger caliper. The pads are thermo-quiet? from advance auto so with a name like that I would hope to not expect any noise although I have been duped before so if anyone has any good input I'm more than willing to dig in and check it out.

virgineg6

Any leftover dust shield still scraping the disk? Check for wear marks on the disk, see if anything unusual is scraping it.

Frozen E

Did you loosen the axle nut for any reason?
Is there any scarring on the outside part of the disc, about 1/2" from the edge?

If you answered yes to both of these, tighten your axle nut.

Ron454321

No scarring and I left the axle nut on, just lowered the fork and slid the new shock combo in because I was lazy and didn't have a socket for the nut. Also I removed the whole dust shield including the screws that hold it in so that I was left with a bare hub.

XDeath

If its nor the brakes then it could be the wheel bearings bro..

Hidenplanvew

Why remove it? The dust shild is there for more then one reason... Did you put the silencer on the outside of the pad?

Ron454321

Read the first post as to why it was removed, as for other reasons they are there I would be glad to hear what those are since I have read no ill results as to the removal. And if by silencer you mean the shim then yes. I actually am leaning to thinking it may be the wheel bearings which would suck but good to know.

Frozen E

If you get the wheel off the ground and wiggle the wheel, do you get any play? If so, there's a good chance your wheel bearing is shot. Order a new hub while you're at it. MUCH easier. Just did both wheel bearings on my EM1, and I thought I was going to be able to get away with reusing the old hub. Nope. The inner race of the bearing separated and got stuck on the hub. Wasn't coming off either. It was much simpler to just order a new set of hubs and pressed everything back together.

UsDm_Junky

durabrand.. great example to never trust a brand by its name lol

Ron454321

So the hub also needs to be pressed? I'm guessing I have to remove the knuckle (again) and just take it to a shop. Are there any upgrades to the hubs available besides exchanging it for a different spline or should I just go OE?

thenext

Just replace the hub. It isn't worth pressing the bearings in and out.

Ron454321

My shop manual says I have to have the hub pressed out/in. Wouldn't it be just about the same since I would have to remove the whole knuckle anyway? Unless there is another easier way to remove the hub?

Frozen E

If any of your boots on your upper or lower ball joints are cracked or the one on the end links is gone, might as well replace them since everything is going to be out anyway. Hell, the end links are easy and cheap. Like $7 a pop or something from rockauto. Alignment required afterwards though.

I had to call up the parts people at majestic honda in Rhode Island to get a part number for the hub since their site didn't show it. Once I got it I was able to add it manually on their site. $100+ a pop.

Bearings I picked up off Amazon with free shipping for around $20 a piece. Lower ball joints for about $40 each. Uppers I didn't replace.

Take the knuckle off
Press hub out of the bearing
Remove big *** C clip
press out bearing
clean everything up a bit
press in bearing
replace big *** C clip
press in NEW hub
reinstall knuckle

Be sure to torque that axle nut to spec to get that bearing preloaded right, otherwise you'll have some serious wheel wobble and be wondering "WTF?!?!?" like I did. Experience speaking here.

I have a 99.99999% brand new lower balljoint I pressed in and back out of a knuckle that was never driven on or even had the car's weight on it. Let me know if you want to make a deal.

Ron454321

Yeah I was actually going to replace the ball joints anyway, and I really need an alignment anyway. How much did you want for it shipped? My shipping zip code is 21797.

92ehatch

could be the pads, i have seen pieces of hard metal get mixed into the pad and it makes that noise.

sand them down a little and see if it stops.

Ron454321

It seems to be very intermittent. I have about an hour drive to work and the same back and I can only hear it sometimes. When I had the car jacked up it would get tight in a certain area while spinning the wheel. Didn't feel much play if any though in the wheel in any directions.

matcat86

civic402lx

Could you not pm the op instead of bumping a 7 yrs old thread? In the op profile, it will show last activity. That will give you a hint whether the op is still active or long gone.

You can also start a new thread for your specific car issue. Give that a try.

tony_2018

sound video clip