SidmeisterEG

Can anyone let me know a safe redline for my d16z6? Im kind of scared to go past 7000 so thats what i shift at when im running my car. Would my SOHC make it to 8000?

slo_hatch

your ecu controls the redline...not your engine. and i have had my d16z6 up to about 7500...havent taken it past that.

dragonfly2k3

If the engine is stock, keep the redline stock. There is absolutely no point in revving higher on a stock engine, you wont be making any more power.

SidmeisterEG

So i would have to tune my ecu to redline at the point i want it to? The point in where my motor isnt in jep of something blowing.

slo_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonfly2k3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the engine is stock, keep the redline stock. There is absolutely no point in revving higher on a stock engine, you wont be making any more power. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2...after a certain rpm, your engine stops making power. so its pretty pointless. but search on google and it might tell you the rpm redline if you find the right site full of specs and info.

and im not 100% but i think you can kinda tune your redline with a VAFC or something like that. not completely sure tho.

SidmeisterEG

Thats what im trying to figure out, the stock redline! 7500?

slo_hatch

here i found this....

http://www.bulletmotorsports.net/enginespecs.htm

hope that helps. look for the d16z6...i looked its like halfway down i think.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SidmeisterEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what im trying to figure out, the stock redline! 7500?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your car is safe at or before stock fuel cut. You can shift at fuel cut. You wont break anything any time soon. Obviously, if you do it all the time, the engine wont go 300k miles...but it's within the parameters of stock Honda tuning. Stock hondas are reliable....hence your stock fuel cut setting is safe. Do it only when the car is at operating temp, though.

I used to shift all the way at fuel cut all the time every day. I road raced the car (93 civic, D16Z6), and even had it up to around 8-8500 a few times on a downshift over rev. It finally blew up because I refused to change the timing belt....which was 11 years and 130k miles old. I think the reasoning was that I was 18 years old.

SLO_EH2

The stock redline of a Z6 is 7200.

dragonfly2k3

if you're really not sure go out, get the car warmed up and up to temp, make sure you have plenty of oil and your timing belt has no excess slack, then go redline 1st gear. You will know when you hit redline because the car will fall on its face. Its safe.

SidmeisterEG

another question....

alot of my friends ride hondas around my area and 2 of my good friends both have integras (LS no vtec) funny thing isi beat both of them out of the hole and all i have is intake exhaust skunk2 pro street coilovers DC traction bars and drag radials on slipstreams that i know of...is this common? also the other stock single cam civics

i have a d16z6 btw

l337m4n

Yeah the ls in the integra is like haveing a dx civic maybe worse.


Modified by l337m4n at 3:17 PM 2/11/2008

SlaMMedB16

Lol ok, im assuming you have a Hatch correct?

If you have even the slightest mods like you have you should be stomping all over and LS's. Thats just my opinion but ive seen it happen a few times, especially if the Ls's are stock

dragonfly2k3

The tires are what allowed you to beat them out of the hole.

SlaMMedB16

the tires did help but even without the tires he would have easily still got the holeshot

schardbody

LS gearing is equivelant to EX gearing, so power to weight ratio is all that matters, beyond driver skill.

in laymens terms YOUR CAR SHOULD BE QUICKER, even if its a coupe.

oneludesol

now turbo that bitch, and get some new friends.... lol

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS gearing is equivelant to EX gearing, so power to weight ratio is all that matters, beyond driver skill.

in laymens terms YOUR CAR SHOULD BE QUICKER, even if its a coupe.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

IIRC, the EX gearing is different from the LS. I could be wrong, though. I'm almost positive that the 92-95 Si gearing is different from the LS.

I thought EX gearing was shorter than the integra LS. I could be wrong, though. The only big mods I did to my D series was to buy a B series. Best mod ever

ddd4114

Assuming this information is correct, the gearing is pretty close.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Assuming this information is correct, the gearing is pretty close.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The D series looks almost like the DX ratios by just looking at the MPH. I dont think that's accurate. I remember my z6 trans topping out at 35 in 1st, and 60 in 2nd. I remember at 60mph, I was sitting around 3kish RPM. Meaning that the top speed in 5th would be around 145mph - 150mph.

I remember thinking how ridiculous the DX trans that I used to have was. I even remember saying "this is geared to go 180mph".

If you had a DX trans hooked up to a D16Z6, those are the MPH numbers you could expect.

Again, I could be wrong....I'm not a big D series buff. But I'm almost sure that those MPH numbers are wrong for the Si trans...

ddd4114

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The D series looks almost like the DX ratios by just looking at the MPH. I dont think that's accurate. I remember my z6 trans topping out at 35 in 1st, and 60 in 2nd. I remember at 60mph, I was sitting around 3kish RPM. Meaning that the top speed in 5th would be around 145mph - 150mph.

I remember thinking how ridiculous the DX trans that I used to have was. I even remember saying "this is geared to go 180mph".

If you had a DX trans hooked up to a D16Z6, those are the MPH numbers you could expect.

Again, I could be wrong....I'm not a big D series buff. But I'm almost sure that those MPH numbers are wrong for the Si trans...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I just got the gear ratios, but I didn't change any other settings, including the 8200 or so redline. Disregard the "Max MPH" column.

Syndacate

Gah, there's so much useless bullshit in this thread it's ridiculous.

A) The redline of the Z6 is 7200 RPM. It is safe to take it there.

B) Stock '92-'95 honda civic tach is NOT accurate at 7200 RPM - I was able to hit "8500" in my civic on the tach, but seeing as the fuel cut is like 7400 that's relatively hard - so just keep in mind that the tachs are useless in terms of telling what RPM you're at in a civic. They're just a decoration. Much like a wideband O2 gauge on a stock narrowband sensor.

C) Unless your ECU is modified, it will cut the fuel at ~7400 RPM, even if your tach says different, the tach is mechanical and inaccurate, your ECU will know the "true" RPM (or at least what your dizzy decided was the true RPM), you need not worry about revving it too far.

D) The stock Z6 doesn't make power past 7000 RPM, I haven't driven a Z6 in awhile but from what I remember there's a huge torque drop off in the stock motor when the tach shows 6.8k-7000. So shift there if you want optimal accel. You're out of the torque band if you shift later so it's absolutely pointless. The Z6 isn't exactly a high flow engine.

I don't know what all this crap about transmissions and probably street racing is about (I just skimmed it). Though an LS trans is exactly like an EX trans and anybody that says different obviously hasn't driven both.

Cln94EG1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gah, there's so much useless bullshit in this thread it's ridiculous.

A) The redline of the Z6 is 7200 RPM. It is safe to take it there.

B) Stock '92-'95 honda civic tach is NOT accurate at 7200 RPM - I was able to hit "8500" in my civic on the tach, but seeing as the fuel cut is like 7400 that's relatively hard - so just keep in mind that the tachs are useless in terms of telling what RPM you're at in a civic. They're just a decoration. Much like a wideband O2 gauge on a stock narrowband sensor.

C) Unless your ECU is modified, it will cut the fuel at ~7400 RPM, even if your tach says different, the tach is mechanical and inaccurate, your ECU will know the "true" RPM (or at least what your dizzy decided was the true RPM), you need not worry about revving it too far.

D) The stock Z6 doesn't make power past 7000 RPM, I haven't driven a Z6 in awhile but from what I remember there's a huge torque drop off in the stock motor when the tach shows 6.8k-7000. So shift there if you want optimal accel. You're out of the torque band if you shift later so it's absolutely pointless. The Z6 isn't exactly a high flow engine.

I don't know what all this crap about transmissions and probably street racing is about (I just skimmed it). Though an LS trans is exactly like an EX trans and anybody that says different obviously hasn't driven both.</TD></TR></TABLE>I would so have to agree with him cause I drive a Z6 all the time and there is no point to try and max that little poor thing out and yes you will smoke LS Tegs I do All day long like it was a Dx hatch lol

blk92_d16

I had my chipped/slotted/converted P06 running me up to 7800 with a totally stock Z6 on the VX TRANS. &lt;-- Only reason for this was the god-awful tranny! It took the revs like a champ! No issues to this day.

BTW, I totally rocked my brother's LS from a stop on 13s with all-seasons. Compare the power to weight factor though...2000 lb per the factory, then gut it (minus full dash), with racing seats. Total ownage, even with the vx trans shifting @ 45 into 2nd and 92ish into 3rd! LOL, good times.

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS gearing is equivelant to EX gearing, so power to weight ratio is all that matters, beyond driver skill.

in laymens terms YOUR CAR SHOULD BE QUICKER, even if its a coupe.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont see what the point of this thread still going is when i answered his MAIN question right here.

i should add that the SAFE redline is 7200 rpm as per HONDA engineers specify when they set it. unless volumetric efficiency goes up revving higher is POINTLESS.