the_illest_soldier

I did a 5 lug conversion this weekend and installed new Work 15inch RSZ-Rs with a 44 offset. After done installing...the right rear tire was rubbing on the top. I stiffened the suspension and raised it to about a 2 finger gap between the fender and the tire. Still rubs going hard around a corner and when i go over bumps. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem before.

the_illest_soldier

up

743power

you reused your ek rear lower control arms, right?

the_illest_soldier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you reused your ek rear lower control arms, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes

eg64u

how wide of tires? you might have to bend in your wheel wells. most likely

SD350z

check bushings? cracked/old bushings might make your suspension squat a little

bent trailing arm?

hybrid0006

prob bad struts letting it squat when cornering

the_illest_soldier

wheels are 15x7 44offset and the suspension is tein SS coilovers

EM1-23

I had the same problem with my coupe w/ the itr 98 spec 5 lug. To fix this problem you can roll your rear fenders. And what spec 5 lug are u running? A 98 spec jdm itr? I heard that the ctr 5 lug conversion doesn't stick out compared to the 98 itr conversion.... Your best bet is to roll your fenders in the rear.

Ricey McRicerton

A good friend of mine had the same problem with those Work wheels on his 4 lug setup. He has one of the stiffest rear setups of anyone I know and it still rubbed.

the_illest_soldier

Damn...guess i might have to roll the fenders. Can anyone estimate how much that is going to cost?

DeLSoLo

not to sure on price but i think its a good time for a Do-It-Yourself kinda thing i just hammered mine in both front and back but i've heard of people using a Bat Technique where you raise the car stick the bat between the fenderwell and rim lower it onto the bat the roll your car foward and backward which will create the "ROLLED FENDER" thing...not to sure though can anyone confirm this?

Mwsol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeLSoLo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to sure on price but i think its a good time for a Do-It-Yourself kinda thing i just hammered mine in both front and back but i've heard of people using a Bat Technique where you raise the car stick the bat between the fenderwell and rim lower it onto the bat the roll your car foward and backward which will create the "ROLLED FENDER" thing...not to sure though can anyone confirm this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the bat in the fender is the way to go. The only way to get rid of your off set problem is to roll fenders.

EricUSC

Just curious, is your setup from a CTR, JDM ITR, or USDM ITR?

Rodney

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKcoupe99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a 5 lug conversion this weekend ....the right rear tire was rubbing </TD></TR></TABLE>


what is the alignment? you did get an alignment after swapping parts out, correct? how much camber in the back right compared to the other side? you might have slightly bent suspension pieces. look into this before you go changing out ride height.

Joon Joon

iTrader: (1)

my friend did a 4lug disc conversion on his ek hatch.. when it was done the rear was sticking out like crazy.. the ek rear lower arms were used.. when he got an alignment the guy said he needed shorter rear lower arms.. so all the guy did was leave the rear camber at -6degrees.. we bought some eg rear arms but he never put them on but they are definately shorter.. might try doing that.. not sure if its the same problem as u though...

in short.. try some eg rear lower arms..

the_illest_soldier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EricUSC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious, is your setup from a CTR, JDM ITR, or USDM ITR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe the rear is a USDM ITR and the front is a CTR.

I havent had time to do an alignment yet. That is the first thing I am going to do. Just need to find a time when the shop i work at is dead for me to pull my car in.

pearlcfcivic97

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeLSoLo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to sure on price but i think its a good time for a Do-It-Yourself kinda thing i just hammered mine in both front and back but i've heard of people using a Bat Technique where you raise the car stick the bat between the fenderwell and rim lower it onto the bat the roll your car foward and backward which will create the "ROLLED FENDER" thing...not to sure though can anyone confirm this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont roll your fenders with a bat you will crack the paint and the outside of the fender will be have dents in it...

I have the same problem I had 15x6.5 +40 offset with 205 50 tires and i had to drive my car with the rear raised so i sold those wheels and am getting 16x7 +45 offset and 205 40 tires if that still doesnt fix it im going to cut that edge off and put primer over it so it doesnt rust

civicsisi

cutting that lip off will reduce the rigidity of that rear fender, its actually better to roll that lip. You wont crack any paint if you do it slowly and warm up the part being bent.

HPCO$T

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicsisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cutting that lip off will reduce the rigidity of that rear fender, its actually better to roll that lip. You wont crack any paint if you do it slowly and warm up the part being bent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly , We do it to bagged trucks all the time take your time and just work it slow while rolling it use a thick pipe but they also have a tool to roll fenders as well..

pearlcfcivic97

the inside lip is like a half inch cut off half of that and it should clear while still having rigidity thats all ill need...

civicsisi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pearlcfcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the inside lip is like a half inch cut off half of that and it should clear while still having rigidity thats all ill need...</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you only cut off half you will retain the rigidity, that is if all you need is 1/4 inch more of clearance. I think cutting half off and then touching the paint back up is way more work than rolling the fender. If you roll the fender there is no raw metal that needs to be touched up(especially since this area is already so prone to rusting), there is less work involved and you get more clearance while keeping the rigidity of the panel...... seems like a win win situation if you roll your fenders.

deeksmooth

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pearlcfcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the inside lip is like a half inch cut off half of that and it should clear while still having rigidity thats all ill need...</TD></TR></TABLE>

do as you wish, u can rent a fender roller online somewhere for $70... check google. maybe someone can post up the link... i dont have it anymore.

EDIT: Here's the link... i guess you can rent it from tire rack for the cost of shipping.

http://www.bmw-m.net/Gallery/haweka.htm

jdmjade

Do your alignment. what size tires are you running? could be too wide and tall. Offset might be a little off too. Might need a +42 offset instead. I know the 5-lug offset is different. It sticks out more.

pearlcfcivic97

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicsisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you only cut off half you will retain the rigidity, that is if all you need is 1/4 inch more of clearance. I think cutting half off and then touching the paint back up is way more work than rolling the fender. If you roll the fender there is no raw metal that needs to be touched up(especially since this area is already so prone to rusting), there is less work involved and you get more clearance while keeping the rigidity of the panel...... seems like a win win situation if you roll your fenders. </TD></TR></TABLE>

everybodys car that i have seen that has done it, looked like **** and since you only get one try without screwing it up id rather go the safer route

btw what do these fender rollers you can rent look like that sounds better than a baseball bat and cutting