Jimi Hondrix

1997 Civic EX coupe stock. A/T. 150K miles.

The new (not-reman.) after-market CV axle removal and installation went smoothly and the outer shaft seal is in good condition so, I reused it.

Now, the bad part: drove it for a couple blocks and was stopped at a slight uphill stop sign. Gave it a bit gas and hear a loud clunk/grind and then lost forward momentum. I turned the engine off and pushed it home.

I suspect: Either the inner shaft spline wasn't seated into the differential correctly (although I check several times).. I used light hi-temp grease on inner axle spine (in hindsight.. I probably shouldn't have), or it leaked out tranny fluid that I didn't see and I forget to check tranny level or ** I noticed before I installed the CV axle that the outer joint on this new shaft was very tight and lacked movement (almost like it was no grease in it) when I checked it by hand before installing it. The inner joint moved freely by hand. The old shaft (ripped boot) both joints moved freely by hand. I just assumed the new outer joint would loosen up after install.

Starts fine in park. I didn't put in gear again and just plan to remove it tomorrow and pray there's no differential damage.
Any comments, suggestions or tips appreciated

This read might apply?: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...8083050AA3FPcV

TomCat39

Let us know what you find.

With the tight outer, I would suspect that first. Especially being you double checked the inner install and know you got it in all the way.

I hear warranty replacement coming.

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks TC39. This car has been one issue after another since I purchased it. Learned a lot about repair though since ownership..so that counts for something. I'll post results.

tony_2018

Check the axle, might have popped out or the shaft fell out of the hub, which means you'll have to get another axle from carquest.

Jimi Hondrix

I've been reading through various post with similar issues and seems like it most likely did pop out. I used the end (outer) shaft as a pseudo slide hammer to fit it in. I compared the gap between the left and right inner axle and they felt like the same amount. It's very possible their isn't a clip on the new inner axle that should be there. I didn't look close enough before I installed it but, I wouldn't be surprised if it's missing because the new CV's inner axle slid in way too easily. I'll know more tomorrow. Thank you,Tony.

tony_2018

Pretty messed up if it didn't, considering its "NON-REMANUFACTURED".

Jimi Hondrix

Inner axle slipped out, speedo working,
differential splines look good, viewable shavings next to nil. Clip is/was on, joints working, only noticable damage is the splines are worn at the inner axle tip ( in front of clip).

Going to parts store to replace

Jimi Hondrix

new part obtained and installed. Have not run engine yet... Should I first do an ATF drain and fill to help remove shavings?

Jimi Hondrix

Didn't do a drain and fill. Drove car for about 30 minutes without issue. Lessen learned... install correctly first time is always better..lol. Auto parts store was cool..no questions asked.

tony_2018

They're always cool. **** happens, but what it looks like though is the shaft didn't go completely in, or was a tad bit short, therefore cause the spline to wear that way.

Jimi Hondrix

Yep. I banged 'er in hard this time and I gave a few hits to the end of the outer axle (while shaft horizontal) with a rubber hammer for good measure. Seems to be working fine now.

sowellman88011

also the new aftermarket cvs are usually a little bit shorter. if it pops again switch it for a reman'd 1. I went thru the same thing and compared them and the new 1 was shorter. I guess to save alil money in metal.

Jimi Hondrix

I matched up the new to the old before install and the new one "seems" to be the same size. I hope it is as I have spent a lot of time under my car this year and dread doing even one more repair..lol

tony_2018

Jim,

Its alwasy time well spent when maintaining a car, trust me.

Jimi Hondrix

I hope so. I am at a point where I'm tempted to sell it but, I've done so much to it that I keep thinking "This should be the last repair for a while". Combine that with the thought that if I sell it someone else might benefit from the fruits of my labor and not have another issue for a long time.

I genuinely enjoy driving it as well even though its a stock SOHC Vtec and automatic transmission. Also, to be considered is the ease of repair compared to other makes, models and years (newer). Relatively inexpensive parts, availablity of parts new and used (U-pulls in salvage yards).

Here's the list of repairs I've done since January 2015:
1) Head gasket (head resurfaced, valve job, new valve stem seals done at machine shop).
2) Timing belt kit (WP, V-belts, cam, crankshaft, valve cover gaskets)
3) L and R inner and outer tie rods
4) All motor mounts (neutralized and sequenced)
5) L and R CV axles (seperate dates)
6) ATF 3x3 drain and fill
7) Replaced majority of coolant and heater hoses
8) L side caliper replaced. L and R brake pads. Bled brake lines.
9) L side knuckle w/hub assembly (salvage yard pulled).
10) A/C compressor clutch pulley bearing (salvage yard pulled)

tony_2018

I've had unexpect repairs myself but my sister is still riding the same db7 integra I bought her 13 yrs ago. She just start dental school further up north and drove it up there NO PROBLEMS. She was worried but I assured her the engine is fine.

edit: yrs are off, bought it in 05/06 so it should be...9 yrs.

TomCat39

I've not come across these terms before.

Can you expand on what neutralized and sequenced means to all the mounts and torsion mounts?

Jimi Hondrix

Described in this HT link: https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...olved-2779057/

Jimi Hondrix

New after-market axles don't come with the small rubber balancer on the driver's side.
What purpose does that balancer serve and why isn't on new axles?

Besides what's been done under car.. also, since beginning of this year:
1) Driver's side door lock actuator (salvage)
2) Driver's side window regulator/motor and master switch control (salvage)
3) New head unit + front & rear speakers
4) Headliner (purchased from friend..he installed)
5) Center console armrest. Visors. (salvage)
6) New tires (lifetime balancing and alignment)
7) Full paint job (primer + 2 base + 3 clear coats) and body work ...large dent repair to quarter panel, trunk drain channel and filled several small body dents. Done at local independant auto body shop. Cost $1,000 total and he did a nice job, explained everything he did beforehand and along the way. He's from Ecuador and self educated on body and paint.
8) New trunk seal. Seem sealer applied to areas of trunk.
9) Spray painted hubcaps and black side skirts/trim.

Keeping it all stock look and ride height. ****.. almost a new car! Why the hell would I want to sell it now?..LOL.