rrmaron

Has anyone got a step-by-step guide of only replacing the crank seal and not the timing belt on a D16Y7 Honda - I am looking for the quickest way without removing anything unnecessarily as have oil pouring out of it (1 quart a week).

The first steps would be:
1. Remove crank bolt (easier said than done)
2. Pull off crank pulley

and I am hoping that there are very few other steps after that ...

apexi_rsx

so your changing the front oil pump seal? you will still have to drop the pan to get the oi lpump out and do it correctly. u can jab at it with a screw driver and try to pry it out without removing the oil pump. its easier when the crankshaft isnt in the way and the oil pumps out.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

3. Remove timing belt (many steps)
4. Remove timing belt guide plates and timing gear from crankshaft

You have to remove the timing belt.

hondamark35

this sounds crazy to me. there is no need to remove the pan or the pump. once you get the feel for it, and find the ideal size and shape screwdriver (i like a narrow 1/4" flat blade about 3-4" long) it's nothing to pop one out.

the same steps are required to replace that seal as to replace the timing belt.
-remove valve cover
-remove outer drive belts (not completely from the car, just off of the pulley.
-remove crank pulley
-remove the oil dipstick tube and both timing covers. now is a good time to set the engine at TDC on cyl. #1.
-loosen the tensioner and remove the timing belt.
-remove the crank sproket to access the seal.
-be very careful not to scratch the seal mating surfaces when removing.
-new seal can be installed with some bits of PVC pipe if you don't want to go out and buy a seal installer tool.

personally i don't like going to the trouble of getting to the crank seal without doing a T'belt job (all belts, seals; cam and crank, water pump, thermostat and valve cover gasket set) same amount of work involved as just doing the seal, but you end up with a completely fresh front side of the motor. only ~$90 on Ebay for the kit. just sayin'.

kp

My thoughts exactly, I have a thin "dentist" hook that really grabs the rubber and yanks it out in no time. Don't let this job intimidate you, it'll be easy.

rrmaron

I really appreciate all the helpful tips - the timing belt and water pump were replaced 11,000 miles ago (allegedly, before I bought it), that is why I was thinking of doing only the crank seal ... but it seems from the replies that

a) I don't have to take out the oil pump (use a screw to screw into rubber of old seal and remove, or fish hooks)
b) I cannot avoid doing the regular steps for normal timing belt replacement, so might just do it to be sure.

I found a Kit online for $60 - are these the correct parts needed:

1 Timing Belt - 104 round teeth (CONTITECH brand, CONTI SYNCHROBELT)
1 Timing Tensioner (GMB brand)
1 Water Pump - 19 teeth pulley (GMB brand)
1 Water Pump Rubber Gasket

98civdx

Go with an OEM kit from ebay. I paid about $149 or something like that for mine.
OEM belts, (all 4) water pump, cam seal, oil seal.

motegicivic

You are sure this is your leak, do you see oil from the timing area?

rrmaron

when my "mechanic" saw all the oil under the car, he decided that the only reason would be a leaking oil pan, and replaced the oil pan gasket (if he was any good, he would have pulled out the oil pump at that time and replaced it as the oil seal is integrated into it).

The oil leak did not get any better at all and I can see drops of oil forming under the timing belt cover. When I removed the valve cover for inspection, I could not see any oil around the cam seal, so it is obviously the crank seal.