Replaced Rear Trailing Arm, Brake problem
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Replaced Rear Trailing Arm, Brake problem
1998 EK hatch Okay So I replaced my Rear Trailing arm, everything was cool, except my brakes I have to push in alot deeper for the brakes to work, It feels like theres air stuck in the lines. when you bleed your brakes do you have to bleed all four of them in a sequence? because we just bleed that one side.
Also when you bleed the breaks you pump in 3 times then hold it with pressure, then losen the bleed screw then tighten it again. Do you only do this 1 time to each wheel or several times?
Also, lol my alignment is pretty off, it drifts to the right side when I let go of the wheel, and i have to hold my steering wheel about 20 degrees off to go straight. I'm guessing this is because I put a new compensator arm and its not adjusted?
anyways thanks for reading, any help, feedback, tips, suggestions would be great.
thank you.
Also when you bleed the breaks you pump in 3 times then hold it with pressure, then losen the bleed screw then tighten it again. Do you only do this 1 time to each wheel or several times?
Also, lol my alignment is pretty off, it drifts to the right side when I let go of the wheel, and i have to hold my steering wheel about 20 degrees off to go straight. I'm guessing this is because I put a new compensator arm and its not adjusted?
anyways thanks for reading, any help, feedback, tips, suggestions would be great.
thank you.
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Re: Replaced Rear Trailing Arm, Brake problem
You have to pump the brakes several times pretty hard and then open up the bleeder screw. Do this several times. Go through about a big bottle of brake fluid...or till the brakes feel good. I'd do all 4 brakes. There's a general sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF for LHD cars. But I think Honda has a difference sequence.
Do this with the car turned on. It's much easier.
As far as your pull problem, this would definately happen with an unadjusted compensator arm. The car will pull to the side with the most rear toe in.
Do this with the car turned on. It's much easier.
As far as your pull problem, this would definately happen with an unadjusted compensator arm. The car will pull to the side with the most rear toe in.
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Re: Replaced Rear Trailing Arm, Brake problem
You have to pump the brakes several times pretty hard and then open up the bleeder screw. Do this several times. Go through about a big bottle of brake fluid...or till the brakes feel good. I'd do all 4 brakes. There's a general sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF for LHD cars. But I think Honda has a difference sequence.
Do this with the car turned on. It's much easier.
As far as your pull problem, this would definately happen with an unadjusted compensator arm. The car will pull to the side with the most rear toe in.
Do this with the car turned on. It's much easier.
As far as your pull problem, this would definately happen with an unadjusted compensator arm. The car will pull to the side with the most rear toe in.
and why does bleeding your brakes when your car is on easier? Something with master cylinder? Is it a necessity to use Honda Brake Fluid? or can I use my Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid?
Last edited by dth0ng69; 10-25-2009 at 11:17 PM.
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Re: Replaced Rear Trailing Arm, Brake problem
Hey thanks alot for ur help bserious. When you say to pump the brakes several times about how much times is that? Do you pump the brakes bleed the screw then pump on it again and bleed it or do you move on to the next brake after doing once? or twice?
and why does bleeding your brakes when your car is on easier? Something with master cylinder? Is it a necessity to use Honda Brake Fluid? or can I use my Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid?
and why does bleeding your brakes when your car is on easier? Something with master cylinder? Is it a necessity to use Honda Brake Fluid? or can I use my Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid?
-Then have the person hold the pedal down.
-Open the screw. (tell them not to let go of the pedal...keep holding it down till you close the screw)
-Close the screw.
Repeat that a few times. There's really no magical number. Just do it a bunch of times per wheel. Pick a number 5 - 10.
The vacuum assist is on when the car is on. You move more fluid at more pressure with less pedal effort. Notice how the brakes are easier to press when the car is on? This will also give you a more accurate reading as to how the brakes will actually feel when the car is running.
You can use any DOT 3 fluid if you're just using the car for normal driving.
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