oleskooljoker

have a 2000 SI^^^^thats the question ive been looking around and cant find any answers. so (for future references) would it be better to replace my b16 with another b16 or rebuild it when needed? they are both are around the same budget. i just want to know what would be best.

replace it with one with 40,000 miles or rebuild the one with 160,000??

Ecky

Depends what's wrong with it. I spun a bearing and rebuilt, and mine failed again within 100 miles. Of course it can be done right... but there's room for error. Machine shop apparently didn't do a perfect job on the block.

I'd try and grab a B18 instead, when the time comes.

98civdx

What's wrong with it?

fallrivercolin

rebuild it early before anything happens to it, and you're good as gold. Or what I would do is find another b16 bottom end (they are cheap and easy to find as people like to take the heads for ls/vtec) and rebuild it while you're still able to drive.

oleskooljoker

Well there is something wrong with it now but have to see or check it out with my mechanic to see what. I don't know what it is. But just in the future in case its major like a thrown rod and put a hole in the block...would it be good to replace the block, pistons, rods etc. Or get a whole engine??? Also the head on my engine now has about 10,000 miles on it if that tells you anything. I have a thread under tech/misc if you want to know what my car is doing but I'm just trying to get ideas that's all

fallrivercolin

If it's knocking, get a new bottom end to keep it easy (i'm not searching to see what it is, sorry, but not tonight). b16 bottom ends are easy to find. or upgrade to a b18b bottom end (even easier to find) and look into an LS/VTEC setup.

oleskooljoker

ok so rebuilding it would be the better way to go and just find another b16 bottom end or a b18b and it all should just fit into place. ok cool. will the stock ecu work on the b18 block? or is that just a dumb question? im new to some engine electrical stuff but i know the mechanical of the engine.

98civdx

There is no stock ecu that will run a ls/vtec correctly. Now a GSR block, and b16, probually. but, the only correct way to do it has it tuned.

That means jumping to obd1, buying a new ecu having it chipped/tuned.

NotAJDMFanBoy

Rebuilding will be cheaper, but you'll be out of commission for 2 weeks minimum. Figure at least a day to pull you engine out, at least a day to disassemble the motor and get it ready to take in. Machine shops usually have a good week or two wait between getting your stuff and getting it back to you. Then assembly takes a day or two, same with the install.

You would be better off finding a second block. Either another B16 block or a B18, even a B20 block and doing an LSVTEC. B16 will be the easiest option and you won't have to drill and tap your head...some people are squeemish about that.

You will not be able to use your ECU. You'll have to get an OBD1 ECU, aftermarket tuning software and either tune it yourself or have someone else tune it.

post a link to the thread you were talking about. If you want us to read what your car is doing, don't expect us to search for it.

Mazdaholic

iTrader: (1)

I say rebuild it. The car as a whole will be worth more as a whole with the original b16, and it will probably be cheaper in the end.

NotAJDMFanBoy

Could a P72 run a B16 head on a B18C bottom end? It will definitely run, almost anything will run on almost any ECU. To get the most out of any engine, you should tune it, it's free horsepower especially if you do any modifications.

98civdx

It will look for the IAB's, and throw CEL's, but, yes it will run.

Damn near any Honda ecu will start and run the car. Will it run good? Not likely.


****, I could start my friend's ITR with my ECU if I wanted to.

Burton42

If its a bottom end knowck could be bearings could be something else. I am a big fane of cylinder leakage tests to shot the condition of the cylinder walls rings and valve seats which should be good if the head is new).

If it just needs new rod and crank bearings that should be easy. If it spun a bearing you would need to get it line bored by a good machine shop (probably easier to get a new block). If there is cylinder wall damage you would need to look at either sleeving it replacing it or going oversized pistons and boring and honing it. If the cylinder bore iis off by a couple thousands you will need to rebuild again.

I would recomebd doing some more dudilligence on determining what is wrong. If it seems to be a major bottom end issue I would recomend tearing it down. You can plastiguagwe your crank and main bearings to check them out and should be able to feel any wear that is excessive on the cylinder walls.

oleskooljoker

ok cool. now would there be any major modifications or differences on the b18 block that i would have to recognize for the b16 head to go on? or would it just be a straight drop in easy swap?

98civdx

You need to be SPECIFIC what B18 block?

oleskooljoker

B18b...

98civdx

You will need a LS/Vtec kit.

fallrivercolin

Info on ls/vtec (b18a/b w/ vtec head) or b20b/z with vtec head can be found here

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

rhymeshark916

Sounds easiest for OP to just replace the B16A2 with JDM B16A. A good low mile is under $1k.

fallrivercolin

For sure. Replace with JDM b16a or b18c.

Chris Trout

Not sure. . I was driving home and it sounded like I ran over something .. I atop at a stop sign and it lost all power. .. it turns over but will not start

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

4 year old thread

What the ****? Step 1: Make your own thread. No one likes a threadjacker. Step 2: Don't bump ancient ******* threads without a damned good reason. You don't have one. Step 3: Read the rules sticky, and the FAQ sticky. They're stickied threads for a reason.