Originally Posted by 94eg!

I have done the rear disc swap on my 94 civic cx. If you buy your parts used you will have to replace the rotors, pads, pad retaining springs & guides, and clean and re-lube the caliper guide pins (just letting you know since it may seem the only thing you have to buy is the swap). I bought mine from here
IMPORT AUTO SALVAGE ANDALE GALLERY

They got the parts here in a week (shipping is super cheap), and after all the above servicing, worked great. The best part is that the rear disc swap comes with the integra 4040 (disc brake) proportioning valve (difficult to install since you can't switch the mounting brackets with the civic one). Plus, import auto salvage has the best customer service ever. If you have any problems just e-mail them

Costs:
Rear disc swap---------------$270 shipped from http://www.importautosalvage.com (with 4040 valve)
Front disc swap---------------$75 + shipping from http://www.hmotorsonline.com (as advertised)
New Brembo Rotors----------$20-$30 each at http://www.nopi.com (oem replacements)
New Axiss Ultimate Pads-----$20-$30 a pair at http://www.nopi.com
New caliper hardware--------$20 at autozone
Disc Brake Lube--------------$1 per packet at autozone (2 needed)
Brake Fluid--------------------$5 at autozone (get big bottle)
10mm Flare nut wrench------$3 at pep boys (a must for brake line nuts)
10 ft small clear tube---------$2 at home depot (cut into 4 pieces for bleeding brakes)
Brake Cleaner-----------------$2 at autozone (cleans off new rotors)

Options:
Engine paint -------------$5 at autozone (paint calipers after clean up)
wire cup brush-----------$5 at lowes (clean up rust on hubs and calipers)

Notes:
1. If your adding Integra front brakes, you will need the 1991 civic ex 4 door's brake master cylinder (15/16"), and it's a bolt on for 92-95 Civics(this is the only civic with integra calipers). If your car is 96-00 I don't know what MC will bolt on.
2. If your adding Civic EX front brakes, you will need the 93-95 civic EX 2 door's brake master cylinder (7/8"), and it's a bolt on for 92-95 civics (Civic EX calipers have a smaller piston than Integras). If your car is 96-00 civic, use the 99-00 Si MC.
3. For any 92-95 civic getting a rear disc swap, you will need the NON-ABS 40/40 proportioning valve from: 92-95 rear disc civic, 93+ rear disc del sol, or 90+ integra. If your car is 96-00 civic, you can use the prop valve from an 99-00 Si, or 96-00 hatch back (their all the same part number).
4. If you have a 96-00 civic, you must retain your stock rear LCAs & rear shocks because they are different.
5. Depending on what pads you use, follow the manufacturers break-in process.
6. You must bleed your brakes to remove all the air from your brake lines. Use the proper sequence in your helms manual because some cars are different than others. Do not follow the old "farthest to closest" method, because Honda brakes arn't setup that way.

Front Sway-Bar: requires you to separate the shift linkage. One unbolts from the transmission, and one unbolts underneath the shifter. Parts required for this addition are the LCA's w/ sway-bar hole (any civic, sol or teg w/ front sway), matching end-links, sway-bar mounting brackets, bushings, and nuts & bolts. I purchased the whole kit from Import Auto Salvage too for $99 + shipping.

Integra E-brake Cables: For 92-95 Civics, it can be tricky to mount the drivers side e-brake cables from the integra. I had to purchase a $2 body bolt (looks like a black bee hive with a washer) from lowes to mount one of the brackets under the car into an existing chassis drain hole. It's easiest (bolt-on) to get the e-brake cables from an ABS version of your chassis (2dr, 3dr, 4dr), but that isn't always an option. I don't know which cables to use for 96-00 civics (sorry).

Front Ball Joints: First make sure your new knuckles have good ball-joints before you install them (if they don't, replace them). Now, since your new front knuckles will be replacing the lower ball-joints, you don't have to be particularly careful separating them. The upper ball-joints & tie rod ball-joints, however, will be reused, so make sure whatever tool you use doesn't damage them. Pickle forks okay, but they tear the boot (cheap to replace boots though)... A Ball joint separator works best though. It seems, however, the last 3 times I rented checkers front end kit, the ball joint tool was missing the cup that sits on the ball-joints stud. This led to the destruction of two of my ball joint studs making it impossible to get the suspension back together. Also be extra careful not to damage the castle nuts with the separator either. This will happen if the separator is resting on the nut instead of the stud (the nut should be screwed on far enough to keep the separator from sliding off the stud, but should not receive direct pressure). For an awesome tip to separate the lower balljoint super easily, click here!

Sorry to be long winded, but I've had bad experiences with ball-joints

Rear LCA Bolts: I almost forgot... If you are removing the rear lower arms use a ton of pb blaster (available at wall-mart) on the lower shock mounting bolts, and let it soak as long as possible (some guys wait over night). When I went to remove the bolt that connects the shock to the LCA, it just snapped the head right off (the bolts rust to the inside of the bushings). This meant that I had to buy a new shock or find someone to cut the old arm off the shock (I tried 3 different places and no one would help). I opted for a set of koni yellows and all new bolts instead. If all the bolts come out fine, order some replacements for the more rusty ones from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and add a little anti-seize goo to the non threaded parts.