VTDr0p0ut

So I've owned my 99 DX for a whole two weeks now, the motor mount blew out, put a few big dings into the hood, and now my car is sitting in the driveway and I'm scared to move it more than 10 feet. I half blame the previous owner who probably wrecked the mount since it was formally boosted (b20). But I think it was only lightly boosted, and it drove solid, so it's not like he would have known. It's probably mostly my fault since this was the first six-puck I had ever driven and a "stutter" here and there was rather violent in that car.

So now here I am, sitting on a blown motor mount. I did a quick search here and didn't find a single hit on the search term "motor mount" or "mount" (which seems very odd, perhaps I'm retarded?). My question is, I can get a new stock replacement mount from the guy who sold me the car (hopefully he'll give me a discount), but I don't really want to have the car towed, and I don't want to drive it to a shop. I'm not entirely mechanically retarded... I do my own oil changes, tune ups, replace exhaust, some suspension work, etc. Without an engine lift, is this something I can do myself (or with a buddy)?

Since this is just the drivers-side mount (the tranny and rear mount look fine), is it possible to just simply put a jack or other form of support under the motor to keep it up, unbolt/remove the top mount plate, remove the blown mount, replace the mount, replace mount plate, and voila, done? If so, where's a safe place to jack it up from? I'm assuming the crank is a no-no, and that the oil-pan will crumble like cheap cardboard. Would jacking it up from the transmission be good enough?

Any help/suggestions and minimal mocking would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

elektronsi

youve got it, just jack it up and replace, easy 10min. fix in your driveway, as for where to jack the car from the oil pan should be fine, ive done a few and always used the oil pan, if your not comfortable doing that then the tranny will be fine, GL

95vxtealhatch

Once again good advice is hard to find. What your dealing with here is an issue of overclamping due to your clutch and pressure plate being too much for your motor and or buring out from a stand still. You can drive a car with a busted motor mount; However, if you want to replace that mount its easy. I own a 5th gen so these instruction might differ a bit.

First off you need a new mount, this might be a good time for a new A/c belt if applicable. On my 5th gen its possible to lower the engine via the drivers side upper mount because of the long bolts. I advice you do this till you get enough clearance to remove the lower mount. Do NOT remove the upper mount unless you have a jack to support the engine. Thats about it man, theres not a lot to replacing that lower mount, at least there wasn't a lot of problems when i replaced my lower mount on my 5th gen civic.

I hope i helped, if i didn't i advice you to get a factory honda service manuel, They have greats pics and take you threw it step by step plus it has everything you've wanted to know about your civic, and stuff you didn't want to know as well.

VTDr0p0ut

Thanks for the quick response! I'm definitely gonna need all the luck I can get!

VTDr0p0ut

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95vxtealhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once again good advice is hard to find. What your dealing with here is an issue of overclamping due to your clutch and pressure plate being too much for your motor and or buring out from a stand still. You can drive a car with a busted motor mount; However, if you want to replace that mount its easy. I own a 5th gen so these instruction might differ a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the reply. I got the car with the 6-puck (more of a concession than a request). Are you saying that with the 6-puck in there, it puts too much stress on the stock mounts? I've never "burned out" in the car, and normally don't get on it until the engine is fully engaged and I'm already rolling (around 3k). I do occasionally have a hard shift from 1st-2nd though... very hard not to with that clutch.

95vxtealhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTDr0p0ut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for the reply. I got the car with the 6-puck (more of a concession than a request). Are you saying that with the 6-puck in there, it puts too much stress on the stock mounts? I've never "burned out" in the car, and normally don't get on it until the engine is fully engaged and I'm already rolling (around 3k). I do occasionally have a hard shift from 1st-2nd though... very hard not to with that clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes im saying a 6 puck clutch will grab harder and therefore put more stress on your motor mounts. Hard shifts put alot of stress on motor mounts expecially with a bigger motor with more hp on mounts designed for not so much hp. I don't recommend solid motor mounts or motor mount inserts as you will not like the added roughness of the clutch engauging on the street. My advice to you is get a custom kevlar clutch. Do some research on kevlar and it applications with clutches, and you'll find that it grabs harder wears less, and wears your mating surface less. I've had my kevlar clutch for 50k miles it still feels brand new to me.