inaety

I'm trying to remove the rotor off my disc brakes, and a lot of how-to's say to use an impact driver to get those two screws out that secure it to place. My question is, can I just a drill on a low speed and remove it? And if I were to strip the screws then what would I do? I'm replacing it, so I guess I could get two new screws?

Thanks

waaBAAH

impact driver is the simpliest way. im guessing you dotn own one. your local part stores carry them around 20-40 dollar range. well worth the investment since drilling sucks.

if they are already stripped...whcih i am guessing they are since your posting about it... then i would drill or air hammer or torch them out. im guessing you dont have a torch nor air hammer so drilling would be your only option. you can drill them out but it is a slow process. it would be worth the money to try to get a shop to do your brakes at that point. most shops charge an hour labor for front pads and front rotors. some shops might even install your cool cross-drilled/slotted rotors with pads.

good luck

b18cKoupe

just drill them out, they serve no purpose other than holding the rotors in place on the assembly line in the factory.

dragon007

get a chisel n tap it out

jtmartin96civic

what??

I'm all for the Impact driver purchase... they're worth every penny. Unless its already stripped out. If so, you still have a few options.

You can drill it a bit to get an easy out on it.

OR you can find a drill bit just larger than the phillips pattern on the head and as soon as it gets through that portion of the head, the head should just fall off, once you do this for both screws take the rotor off, and remove the remaining threads with vicegrips.


btw. Dont put new rotor screws back in... IMO. They're just a pain, i took mine out forever ago. they're worthless. good luck

inaety

well my plan was to completely destroy them since i knew i wouldn't be needing them. I went to Lowes and they recommended a thing called a "Grabit". What you do is put it in a drill on forward and it cuts through the screw, then you switch around the bit and it is thread to pull out the screw. The problem is, the pressure is still great for the drill, lolz. I plan on getting an impact driver for the last screws, but for this one i am just gonna put that drillbit on forward and mutilate the head. hopefully i can pull it out i can impact driver the other screw out.

Yeah, apparently they were there only for assembly, so definitely not going with that.

I had another question: I removed the two 12 mm bolts of the outside caliper and the two 14 mm bolts of the inner, but I still can't remove the caliper from the rotor. This will be vital when I do end up getting the screws out, so is there something i am missing?

Thanks all!

thumper64

Did you press the piston back into the caliper? I have a big farking C clamp and just put it on the exposed surface of the outside pad and back of the caliper and tighten the sucker down.

And definitely drill out the old screws if you can't get them with the impact. I put Wagner rotors on my mom's Odyssey and they don't even have holes for the screws.

inaety

the piston that adjusts the rear caliper? You have to press it in in order to get it to release? I thought that was something we had to press down and turn using a big *** screw driver. Where exactly is this piston?

Thanks thumper

roadsqueegy95

ya there should be what looks like a X on the caliper, that part that the pad sits next to, if so it screws in, there is acculy a tool to turn them back in, but a big screw driver always worked for me!

inaety

I guess that means if its screwed in, it's gonna be locked to the rotor, persay. and if its out and loose, then it should freely fall off the rotor?

inaety

bumppp

Tarmac Junkie

Its kind of hard to explain all this to you, do you own a repair manual for this car? If the caliper is a bit hard to take off with your hand, use a screw driver to pry between the rotor and the caliper to wedge it off..

thumper64

I have only done normal disk brakes on fronts of vehicles and you press the piston inside of the caliper in by clamping on the caliper and pad and tightening down, but it may be different on rears.
A manual would be helpful, but I did a little research and indeed you need to turn the cross thing to back the caliper off.

http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Arch.../msg00041.html

inaety

okay, thanks, so it looks like i just have to work with that piston and it should lose its clamp on the rotor. would the outer caliper come off by just undoing those two screws and prying it like that? That doesn't sound like it would work?

roadsqueegy95

ya i know some times i gotta get a screw driver and pry it off, they stick on sometimes.

inaety

yeah this one probably is. i dont think its been removed in quite some time, i'll try that, i just want to make sure all the bolts are out so i dont break anything. the inner caliper, though, needs the piston i believe

nello a.

c clamp on the piston has always worked for me. maybe i misunderstood the question

cashkeith

impact driver 9 bucks at auto zone

inaety

What does it mean by getting exactly the piston lined up with the tab? What I am tightening it down to?

the piston:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...talignment.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rkingonpad.jpg

and what helm's says about the piston alignment:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2mo5nrb.jpg


And would leaving the ebrake on cause the outer part of the caliper to not come on because of the pressure? maybe that's what i did and is why i couldn't get it off. I don't remember taking it down but I always put it up when jacking it up

inaety

night bump

thanks