litterbox

Hey Guys,

How do you remove the dust cover and bumpstops from these stock shocks.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

I'm switching over to KYB AGX's and H&R's and I need to use these stock parts.

Thanks.

George

jlacoy82

Is it possible they are threaded onto the shock rod? I really have no idea.

litterbox

That might be a possibility. There is an allen key opening at the top of the shock. I just want to know for sure because I don't have my helms with me and I dont' want to go break something I need.

dantastic

they should just come off. use a mallet and tap them upwards.

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they should just come off. use a mallet and tap them upwards.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure? They aren't threaded on? I can't really tell because there's rust.

jlacoy82

Personally if you dont know how they come off and are looking for an answer, I'd start spraying them down with PB Blaster or the like until you find one

Is the allen key set straight down into the shock? Or does it go in through the side where the threads are?

I'll look at my helms real quick and see what I can find.

SOHC4life 96

The dust covers on mine were sliding around like crazy, so those should just come right off. The bump stop I'm not sure about it. Go get some rust remover and try and clean it off.

jlacoy82

Its just pressed on, its the same for both rear and front struts. You already have all the parts above the dust cover removed, so all thats left is the dust cover/dust cover boot/bump stop/bump stop plate.

I'd try spraying it down with something to loosen the rust, then like someone said, tap it with a mallet or something to work it off.

Lee_Delso

They are not threaded just need a little tap here and there then some wd-40, actually you need to heat the part that I circled then spray some wd-40 on it the take a vise grip and rock it back and forth. You have to take that off first before the dust cover will come off.

turbo_ef9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lee_Delso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are not threaded just need a little tap here and there then some wd-40, actually you need to heat the part that I circled then spray some wd-40 on it the take a vise grip and rock it back and forth. You have to take that off first before the dust cover will come off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

tahts if urs are all rusted like that.. woah ....

litterbox

Ok so this is how it wen't down. The dust covers should be able to slide but mine wouldn't because they were so rusted over at the top. I hammered and hammered but they wouldn't budge. I ended up cutting the dust cover off with a dremel to get to the bumpstop which is really what i needed. I then cut the actual shock rod in half to remove the bumpstop.

SOHC4life 96

So you got the bump stops? Interesting way of getting them, but I'm sure I would have done the same.

turbotime

wow, make sure ya trim the stops for the kybs (your other post) i took two notches off mine, if youve extended your shock travel just take one off

99hatch

why does he have to trim his bump stops?

litterbox

I trimmed the bumpstop for full shock travel since I'm using a lowering spring.

99hatch

yea, im asking though, what happens if you dont?

alotawatts

bumpstops etc. are cheap why use old deteriorated parts and risk the chance of squeeks and bad performance ?

99hatch

so you cut the bumpstops to get rid of squeaking?

turbotime

i cut the bumpstops becuase if you lower too low on kyb you will rest right on the bumpstop, thus basically eliminating the strut altogether.

Even after the 2part trim i though i was still pretty damn close to the stop, so i got the ground control upper mounts, extending the travel about 1.5 inches. ******* SWEET

now i can drop nice and low on the kybs without damaging them or sacrificing ride quality



*edit: oh i thinkt he 'purpose' of the bumpstop is to protect the top of your strut from damage while colliding with the underneath of your car (aka: bottoming out)

jefe

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lee_Delso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are not threaded just need a little tap here and there then some wd-40, actually you need to heat the part that I circled then spray some wd-40 on it the take a vise grip and rock it back and forth. You have to take that off first before the dust cover will come off.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. The part of this image that is circled is a sleeve that just slides on the shaft. I just had this same problem with my car swapping out shocks. That sleeve had rusted and fused itself onto the shock shaft.

I took some PB blaster and hosed it down, tapped it a few times, hosed it down again and let it sit over night, the next day, it just fell off.

and be sure to trim down the bump stop and dust cover a bit.

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lee_Delso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are not threaded just need a little tap here and there then some wd-40, actually you need to heat the part that I circled then spray some wd-40 on it the take a vise grip and rock it back and forth. You have to take that off first before the dust cover will come off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...zMXk1NDE3D.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't get that piece off, so I'll be finding a new one at Honda or maybe home depot. What is the purpose of this piece? I put the rear shocks on the car without it and the shock rod was sticking way to high up inside the trunk. So the shock actually puts pressure on this piece to stop it from moving up?

turbotime

partly, or just a big washer

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Those sleeves are what limit the amount of compression on the bushings when you tighten down the nut on top of the shock. This is why your rods were sticking up too high (the nut is pulling them through too far). Once the bushings compress so far, the washers are supposed to bottom out on that sleev, also allowing you to put proper tourque on the top nut.

If you don't have them, then your upper mount bushings will be over compressed, and the nut on top won't be torqed down (which will allow it to back off someday).


***BTW, those GC upper mounts only add 3/4" shock travel total. You can trim their provided bump stops, but must leave a minimum of 1" (per GC's instructions).

jefe

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those sleeves are what limit the amount of compression on the bushings when you tighten down the nut on top of the shock. This is why your rods were sticking up too high (the nut is pulling them through too far). Once the bushings compress so far, the washers are supposed to bottom out on that sleev, also allowing you to put proper tourque on the top nut.

If you don't have them, then your upper mount bushings will be over compressed, and the nut on top won't be torqed down (which will allow it to back off someday).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

94EG has it right. If you look at your new shocks, you can see where the shock starts out at the top and then a few inches down it flares out to be a bit wider. That sleeve cannot go past the part that flares out for the reason that 94eg said.

When I bought my new Tokico shocks, they provided me with a new sleeve plus the bushings that fit into the shock mount plus a new bolt for the top of the shock.

Are you sure you didn't get these with your new shocks?

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jefe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
94EG has it right. If you look at your new shocks, you can see where the shock starts out at the top and then a few inches down it flares out to be a bit wider. That sleeve cannot go past the part that flares out for the reason that 94eg said.

When I bought my new Tokico shocks, they provided me with a new sleeve plus the bushings that fit into the shock mount plus a new bolt for the top of the shock.
Are you sure you didn't get these with your new shocks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I didn't get those parts. I got a small collar with them that I put on but it's obvious after the install that I need the honda collar and washer as well.

Question: When I get the longer collar from honda and the washer, what does that collar actually rest on to keep the shock rod from raising too high?