Relocated my IAT
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Relocated my IAT
So i put the IAT towards the front of my CAI yesterday, and you CANT tell me it doesnt help on a OBD2 car. I can feel a tad bit more torque, and now i get alot more wheel hop at startup. I guess its feeding in more fuel, and bumping up the timing a bit. Its a cheap alternative to a Adjustable FPR. And i fully insulated my CAI pipe. Anybody else's thoughts on this?
#2
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Re: Relocated my IAT (YoungKadafi)
Take it to the dyno and show us a smoother curve or higher numbers. Best place you could have the IAT is in the intake manifold.
#3
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Re: Relocated my IAT (Luserkid)
just becuase your tricking the computer to think its colder outside does not mean your getting any power.
like he said, the best place is on the IM. you want real conditions not fake.
in the heat of the day you will lose.
like he said, the best place is on the IM. you want real conditions not fake.
in the heat of the day you will lose.
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having the IAT reading a colder temp=more fuel injected and more timing added. My car runs pretty lean right now so this is cheaper than buying a adjustible FPR, or doing an OBD1 conversion....plus i insulated the whole intake pipe so the reading will be slightly cooler than if it were in the OEM location.. This gives me more timing and fuel, which is what i need.
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I'm sure it's a bit faster. by placing it further away from the engine you're just running a **** hair richer. It'll give you a nice bump but you're running rich so your MPG will decrease by 1 or 2 /gal. You have less chance of throwing a rod though .
Colder can't get better b/c eventually it's too rich and the car won't run properly.
Innovation is always good. It really won't make a diff, like I said, you're just running a bit rich. Maybe if you had like a 13 even you'd be running like a 12.9? 12.85? Maybe not even that. Maybe more, whatever.
Though that's generally for boosted apps, on naturally aspirated apps you generally want it dead center on 13 or 13.2 even.
I don't know man, like I said, innovation is always good. Running it a bit rich won't really hurt anything.
I'd suggest running it on the IM though. Definitely like the thinking though .
EDIT:
PS: This does the same thing as those chips on ebay that guarantee 20hp (chips for the IAT). All those are is resistors that make the ECU assume coldest O2 possible, pump more gas, run it a bit rich, you basically did the same thing by moving it away from the engine.
Colder can't get better b/c eventually it's too rich and the car won't run properly.
Innovation is always good. It really won't make a diff, like I said, you're just running a bit rich. Maybe if you had like a 13 even you'd be running like a 12.9? 12.85? Maybe not even that. Maybe more, whatever.
Though that's generally for boosted apps, on naturally aspirated apps you generally want it dead center on 13 or 13.2 even.
I don't know man, like I said, innovation is always good. Running it a bit rich won't really hurt anything.
I'd suggest running it on the IM though. Definitely like the thinking though .
EDIT:
PS: This does the same thing as those chips on ebay that guarantee 20hp (chips for the IAT). All those are is resistors that make the ECU assume coldest O2 possible, pump more gas, run it a bit rich, you basically did the same thing by moving it away from the engine.
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obviously honda knows best, I just needed to richen up things according to my plugs. The resistors make it really cold, im sure a few inches shouldnt make too much of a difference. Running richer is better than lean, so why is it such a bad idea? Yea obviously the chips do way worse, but this is just trying to read a few degrees cooler to pull in more fuel and timing.
not to bash anybodys thoughts, but if honda did know best, then why are people putting on test pipes, converting OBD2b cars to OBD1, slapping on turbos, running open breather PCV setups, raising the compression, Running a K&N filter, running a CAI, exhaust, header, IM, doing ANY modifications on their cars?
I know the whole IAT thing is for ebay ricers, but if you were to ask most people how to richen up your A/F ratio, they would say "convert to OBD1" Well i cannot convert as of this moment, so the only option I have is to trick the ECU to think im running maybe 2-3*f cooler, and advance maybe a degree of timing.. I still have my intake insulated from heat, so the air temps should be the same. I just needed a touch more fuel because im running
CAI w/K&N
Header
IM/TB
removed EVAP system, so startup is lean
Test pipe
2.5" exhaust
advanced timing
Ecu can only add about 25% more fuel per air added. Im sure im close to 25% more air induction, however im sure my engine doesnt even use close to that 25% since i dont have cams/headwork or any kind of tuning. Im just trying to stay on the safe side.
not to bash anybodys thoughts, but if honda did know best, then why are people putting on test pipes, converting OBD2b cars to OBD1, slapping on turbos, running open breather PCV setups, raising the compression, Running a K&N filter, running a CAI, exhaust, header, IM, doing ANY modifications on their cars?
I know the whole IAT thing is for ebay ricers, but if you were to ask most people how to richen up your A/F ratio, they would say "convert to OBD1" Well i cannot convert as of this moment, so the only option I have is to trick the ECU to think im running maybe 2-3*f cooler, and advance maybe a degree of timing.. I still have my intake insulated from heat, so the air temps should be the same. I just needed a touch more fuel because im running
CAI w/K&N
Header
IM/TB
removed EVAP system, so startup is lean
Test pipe
2.5" exhaust
advanced timing
Ecu can only add about 25% more fuel per air added. Im sure im close to 25% more air induction, however im sure my engine doesnt even use close to that 25% since i dont have cams/headwork or any kind of tuning. Im just trying to stay on the safe side.
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