Recommendation for flywheel and clutch? opinions wanted
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Recommendation for flywheel and clutch? opinions wanted
Ok so im working on my del sol again.. and im looking to keep the stock engine and tranny. whats are your opinions on a lightened flywheel (8lbs) and stage 2 or 3 clutch?
my clutch is starting to slip a little and i know ima have to replace it soon enough thats why im asking for opinions.
currently i dont have alot done to the motor. (d16z6)
CAI, exhuast, i have a d16y8 intake manifold on the way..
suspension: no name coilovers, stock shocks.. camber kit front and rears..
5zigen super 6's for wheels.. 17"
oh yeah i forgot to mention an integra B&M short shifter
Modified by mv1luv at 9:49 PM 2/23/2008
Modified by mv1luv at 11:42 PM 2/24/2008
my clutch is starting to slip a little and i know ima have to replace it soon enough thats why im asking for opinions.
currently i dont have alot done to the motor. (d16z6)
CAI, exhuast, i have a d16y8 intake manifold on the way..
suspension: no name coilovers, stock shocks.. camber kit front and rears..
5zigen super 6's for wheels.. 17"
oh yeah i forgot to mention an integra B&M short shifter
Modified by mv1luv at 9:49 PM 2/23/2008
Modified by mv1luv at 11:42 PM 2/24/2008
#2
Re: Recommendation for flywheel and clutch? opinions wanted (mv1luv)
Since your keeping it mostly stock, a light-wieght fly-wheel will be good. But you dont need nothing over a stage 1 if that. Stage 2+ if 6-pucks will chatter, and some even if not 6-puck shorten shaft life. So stick to a aftermarket oe or oem replacement, and you should be good. I know exedy has oe replacements, not sure about act, ect but i would think they would.
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i heard a rumor that if your flywheel is too light it loses torque and makes town driveability somewhat bothersome.. any truth to this?
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#6
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A lighter flywheel requires more throttle when starting from a dead stop, but "bothersome" is the opinion of the driver. Some say it's fine and others hate it. I have an ACT 10.8 lb Streetlite and I have no issues with it, but I don't know if I'd go with an 8 lb-er. That's just me... but like 95projectej1 said, an oe replacement can be had for cheap. You don't need any stage 2/3 since torque hold ratings on those are typically up in the 300+ ft-lbs and a stock D won't be pushing that... ever. My ACT HDSS stage 1 holds up to 240 or so ft-lbs and I have a stock B. Driving that over a stock clutch is already a lot stiffer and more "binary" in terms of dis/engagement but I like the feel. Spending $6-800 on an upgraded clutch doesn't make more power and isn't necessary.
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thankyou the input is greatly appreciated and taken well into consideration. i just want something reliable that has some what of better feel. i will keep an eye out for a good deal for a stage 1 .., thankyou very much
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#8
Re: (mv1luv)
I have a Fidanza 8-lb flywheel with an Exedy stage 3, 3-puck clutch. It's great for my all motor setup, but it kinda beats the hell out of the car. (i.e. chattering) Haven't noticed any problems with overall drivability though, just gotta get used to how hard/fast it engages. Personally, I love the combo.
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Re: (mv1luv)
I'm using an Exedy Stage 1 Clutch with an ACT 12.5 LB Flywheel on a stock B16a in my 92 hatch. I think thats the perfect combo for me since it's my daily beater. The clutch feels great and isn't too harsh, but it has nore than enough grab for me. If you are looking for something a little better than stock, but still good enough to take some abuse once in a while this is what I would recommend
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Re: (DOHChatchGUY)
I think most brands are pretty reliable. I got a good deal on a Competition Clutch and 12lb flywheel. But since you don;t have any serious mods stick with a stage 1 and don't go under 12lbs on the flywheel. Good brands are ACT, Exedy, Competition Clutch, Centerforce, etc.
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Re: (sql_civic)
The flywheel depends on your preference. Your engine speed will change more easily, and if that's not an issue for you, the lighter the flywheel the better. You will not lose or gain torque when changing flywheels. An inertial dyno will show a gain, but that's just due to the way in which it measures horsepower.
Your engine is barely producing more power than stock, so an OEM (or OEM replacement) clutch will be perfectly fine.
Your engine is barely producing more power than stock, so an OEM (or OEM replacement) clutch will be perfectly fine.
#13
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The flywheel depends on your preference. Your engine speed will change more easily, and if that's not an issue for you, the lighter the flywheel the better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that you mention it, I'll add that combining a lighter flywheel with a quality short shifter is a good idea. Shortening the shift throw to match your engine's quicker drops in RPMs will go hand in hand so you don't have to compensate on the shift speed. People with short shifters and stock flywheels often wear their synchros by power shifting into every gear, forcing the trans to do the work that their foot, hand, and brain should instead be doing. A lighter flywheel will make this more transparent, allowing you to shift slightly faster without abusing your gearbox.
Now that you mention it, I'll add that combining a lighter flywheel with a quality short shifter is a good idea. Shortening the shift throw to match your engine's quicker drops in RPMs will go hand in hand so you don't have to compensate on the shift speed. People with short shifters and stock flywheels often wear their synchros by power shifting into every gear, forcing the trans to do the work that their foot, hand, and brain should instead be doing. A lighter flywheel will make this more transparent, allowing you to shift slightly faster without abusing your gearbox.
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Excellent this is exactly the kind of feedback i was hoping for. HT forums are the best im going to keep my eyes open for a good combo deal. thankyou all.
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