md88hfcrx

i am rebuilding a z6 back to stock. i got the pistons/rods and new rings in, all new bearings. no machine work except for me doing a light hone to bring back the crosshatch.

when i torqued down the # 2, 3, and 4 rod caps the crank would still spin easily (considering the friction of the pistons), but when i torqued down the #1 rod cap the crank will barely spin over. i put them at 23 ft/lbs. i put the torque wrench on the crank and it takes 50-55 ft/lbs to spin

i reset the rod bearing on that cylinder, but still. if i leave it at about 15-18 ft/lbs it still spins easily (considering the friction of the pistons)

ANY IDEAS? Trying to get this thing out so i can start my build


motor ran before but rebuilding for a friend cuz it had 230k miles

caseyhamm68

do you have a micrometer is so mic them ans see if one is thicker than the rest i have had a few times they gave the wrong bearings did you use plastigauge? what was the measurment..

md88hfcrx

didnt use a plasti gauge. all the bearings came out of the same package but i'll check it through

nub

what kind of bearings (brand)? you know you have codes on you block, crank and rods that are used for bearing codes (size=color) but those code are only good for o.e. bearings and are only a guideline to get you in the ballpark. buying aftermarket bearings is a shot in the dark especially if you havent measured clearance in any way. using the factory codes you can end up with a differant size bearing on every journal. aftermarket may be cheaper but one size doesnt fit all

md88hfcrx

using acl bearings

nub

have you mic'd or plastigauged yet? go to autozone and get some (green), $10? that journal is obviously to tight regardles take the codes off the crank and rod for that journal and go to honda and get the proper bearing.

md88hfcrx

yeah i need to plasti gauge everything. thanks . how much do bearings run from honda?

SilverBulletY8

depends on the color... there are several.