CRXREFIC

well im geting started on my rebuilding of a b18a1 with b1 head....

i just want to rebuild it while the motor is still out and separated... so

whats the best rebuild kit their is i can order? im not basically going to build it, but just want to rebuild it and make it last for a small turbo set up

gimmi list of items i will need to run least 10 pounds of boost without worrys

supersize

http://www.perfectengine.com/Acura_1...af-sek1291.htm


hope that helps

supra-n-civic

well there is no real right answer here you coul say that it needs to be sleeved an with forg internals and what not but . it ultimatly will hav to do with how you drive it. id say if you take care of it. a fresh stock build with arp rod, main, and an head bolts is a good choice for your goals really

CRXREFIC

thanks man,, this is the full truth of how i will drive it,

i will let it break in, and i will just cruise it alot, but from time to time i will give it a few good flooring, but i will not ever punch it and power shift and all that, just a few good full throttle, i will also be racing it on the track next summer few times,

i am already planning on get arp rod bolts,
will i be good with stock pistons and camshaft?

supersize

do you just want to rebuild it basic or build it for total performance?

CRXREFIC

basically rebuild it with a small turbo set up...

i basically just want to reach around 200hp at the crank including boost

i dont want to built the motor that much
like i said before i want a boost setup with the minimun requirements for a turbo motor to last

im rebuilding cause the motor been sitting all dried up and crap for over a year

93egSLEEPER

if you only want 200 at the crank throw a vtec head on it and do a lsv swap and you wont have to hassle with the turbo. If you want to rebuild it and do turbo might as well do it right and at least do pistons, rods are a plus too. it would just be a waste of a turbo setup for 200 crank hp

Kidnkorner

Ahh LSVTEC. Seriously, this concoction came about as a super cheap alternative to get close to the power of a B18C5 but at a fraction of a B18C1 without touching any internals. If you are going to start putting in forged internals, cams and valve train, you may as well build a B18C.

No, you should give it a good flooring from the very beginning, you have a very small window to seat the rings optimally and babying it is the worse thing you could do.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Been using this technique before most of you even knew what the innawebz was.

93egSLEEPER

you dont wanna floor it right off the bat or you have oil soak and saturate the rings before they get a chance to heat up nd exand correctly. it should be a very gradual "rev, drop" process. then after 20-30 times of that get on it some.

Kidnkorner

Why do people have to take things literally? Of course you want the engine up to operating temperature, duh George. And, I posted a link to the technique to use. The ideal place to do this is on a chassis dyno if it can't be done on an engine dyno.

CRXREFIC

sweet thanks lol

i was thinking ls/vtec but theirs ppl in this town that says ls/vtec, and ls/boost

idk which sides to pick lol.... if i throw in a ls/vtec it will be very hard to find a b series vtec head in my town or the state for that matter....

anyone gimmi link to a ls/vtec set up then? i know it needs carefulness to make it work properly,

93egSLEEPER

i wasnt referring to warming up the car to operation temps. i was talking about making sure the "flooring" method was conveys as lugging it in a high gear from 1500 to say 6000 rpm and letting it drop on its own by compression. As long as the OP deosnt get the idea that breaking it in is ripping through the gears and redlining is what i was making more concrete. i was not disagreeing with you, i use that same method. i was just clarifying.

93egSLEEPER

use the site search engine and search ls/vtec. you will et TONS of info. more then you will wanna look at. i am just wondering why do you only wanna make 200 crank hp? if your going to boost the LS run it up to say 240whp and make use of the setup safely.

CRXREFIC

idk really lol....

i was saying i want to make 200 hp at the crank with just the turbo

im planning on making more with aftermarket chamshaft, gears, intake manifold, and nothing much in the internals...

im still on the decisions list... thats y i am asking for opinions..

lets say i am going turbo set up
if i want 250whp..
what will the setup have to be to have it reach that number?
and what if i want to go ls/vtec, and reach over 200whp? what will i have to get to complete this?

this is my first swap, and rebuild btw this is why this topic was created

btw.... how much would a full d16z6 swap price be? with dx transmission also?

my d16 motor beat a b16a civic off the line till third gear

93egSLEEPER

a full d16 swap w/ dx tranny? i would pay like 6-700 for it.

Making 250whp on a LS is easy, you can d it stock. just takes the right turbo and a good tune. my buddies DA makes 252whp on 10psi w/ a .54 trim turbo.

CRXREFIC

that is what im looking for
but i want it to last me and keep the budget around 500-1000 for the rebuild
i dont want to replace the pistons and rods tho, since most of the blown up engines are the head that goes out

93egSLEEPER

you can do a stock rebuild and be fine. STAY AWAY from rock pistons though, they have horribly weak ring lands.... seen them break w/o boost. My buddy has been running his DA on the LS-T setup for 2 years now no problems. GL with the build and let me know if your looking for any parts, im selling parts off my turbo lsvtec civic. i go to school in ND too so i might be able to meet up if ya wanna get em.

CRXREFIC

that will be AWSOME lol got msn? if not add me on aim and we can talk more about the parts

iiipimpazn

93egSLEEPER

i dont have either messenger man... lol. feel free to shoot me a text or something. ill pm you my number.

supersize

damn.. install aim, its like 5 minuts topps haha, plus its the shyttttt

JDMInteg96

ttt

supersize

ttt???

Puma909

For a guidelines when selecting pistons, keep these things in mind. If you are going turbo, it would be a good idea to run the first compression ring about .0250" below the crown of the piston. This will give the ringland the strength you need to hold up to extreme use.

However, remember that you are using cast pistons. Even the strongest cast pistons are brittle and they will shatter, if there is detonation or it they are subject to a lot of load. If you want reliability and longevity go with a forged piston. Aries is pretty well priced, and I think Bisimoto offers them, but dont quote me on that.