Rear LCA bolt. Not as easy as you might think.
10-13-2006, 12:52 PM
#1
Rear LCA bolt. Not as easy as you might think.
Alright, so I picked up a rear disc conversion off a 99 si (thanks to danny), which included more than I need, including the LCAs. Im trying to disconnect the LCA from the trailing arm, so I can mount the trailing arm to the current LCA on my car. The problem is, the bolt is more stuck than ever AND the trailing arm isnt mounted to the car, so theres nothing to torque off of. Worse moreso, the bolt is fairly stripped (cant get a good grip on it). So, any suggestions? Heres some reference pics:
**EDIT - I HAVE ALREADY SHATTERED TWO, YES TWO 14MM SOCKETS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO GET IT OFF WITH A BREAKER BAR**
Thank You!
**EDIT - I HAVE ALREADY SHATTERED TWO, YES TWO 14MM SOCKETS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO GET IT OFF WITH A BREAKER BAR**
Thank You!
10-13-2006, 01:17 PM
#5
be professional
Re: Rear LCA bolt. Not as easy as you might think. (sk8shorty012)
Hence the reason why I always recommend to unbolt the hub assemblies from the trailing arms and swap those, instead of swapping the entire arms . . .
10-13-2006, 01:27 PM
#7
Re: (Kruzen510)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hence the reason why I always recommend to unbolt the hub assemblies from the trailing arms and swap those, instead of swapping the entire arms . . .</TD></TR></TABLE>
It came like this, wasn't my choice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kruzen510 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cut it off on each end of the bushing but inside the bracket where the control arm slides up into, if that makes sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it makes sense, but what will I do with each of the threaded parts - I need to re-use the trailing arm.
It came like this, wasn't my choice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kruzen510 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cut it off on each end of the bushing but inside the bracket where the control arm slides up into, if that makes sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it makes sense, but what will I do with each of the threaded parts - I need to re-use the trailing arm.
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10-13-2006, 01:33 PM
#8
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Re: (sk8shorty012)
Everyone is right the bolt has got to be cut or broken off in some way. That bolt is always a pain in the a**. When i did my struts and springs las spring both bolts broke. It just gets frozen in the bushing. Heat and wd-40 will be your best friends.
10-13-2006, 01:36 PM
#9
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Re: (sk8shorty012)
what i did on the trailing arm side was cut it as close to the control arm so there is still a little bit of the bolt still there, then vice grips and some wd-40 should do the trick, you'll be able to twist whats left, out with the vice grips
10-13-2006, 01:38 PM
#10
Re: (Kruzen510)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kruzen510 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i did on the trailing arm side was cut it as close to the control arm so there is still a little bit of the bolt still there, then vice grips and some wd-40 should do the trick, you'll be able to twist whats left out with the vice grips
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ah because your saying, since the bolt isnt so long any more AND not going through two threads that it shouldnt be as hard to torque?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ah because your saying, since the bolt isnt so long any more AND not going through two threads that it shouldnt be as hard to torque?
10-13-2006, 01:41 PM
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Re: (sk8shorty012)
well my problem was that the inside of the bushing was rusted to the bolt and not letting it turn, so once you cut the bushing out you'll be able to turn the part thats still threaded in with vice grips
10-13-2006, 02:25 PM
#13
Re: (DC_RaceR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_RaceR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would try a ez out socket first.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
explain more please?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
explain more please?
10-13-2006, 02:31 PM
#14
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Re: (sk8shorty012)
if you dont have an ez-out socket already vice grips work just fine, or you can go buy some ez-outs to add to your tool collection.
snap-on one to give you an idea http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog
snap-on one to give you an idea http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog
10-13-2006, 02:54 PM
#15
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If you want to try heat. Get a little coalman gas bottle, (camp stove) most hardwear stores sell a tourch kit that will mount on the gas bottle. That should give you enough heat.
10-13-2006, 02:54 PM
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Re: (sk8shorty012)
I had the same problem on the same bolt when doign my rear disc swap. Stripped the bolt head, so I got these.
they are called twist sockets. They grip the head an dig in to turn it. You will need a new bolt after this but looks like you need a new bolt anyway.
I bought mine from home depot, $10 or so, came in a small blue box and was with all the socket wrench tools.
There is a chance when you using those you will torque the bolt's head right off.
Then you will need to drill into the remaining shaft of the bolt and insert one of these
Called an easy out. these will dig into the hole you make and let you turn the bolt out without a head on it.
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts. I got mine again at home depot.
In both cases I recommend a penetrating lube (hee hee)
(lemme tell you I was a little scared to google.image this here at work)
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts store.
I got my at pep boys.
All three of these will not set you back much cash, and in each case you will use them plenty I am sure. Or lend them to friends.
the penetrating lube is good in pretty much all under car parts because of the light surface rust and small crap that gets into everything.
they are called twist sockets. They grip the head an dig in to turn it. You will need a new bolt after this but looks like you need a new bolt anyway.
I bought mine from home depot, $10 or so, came in a small blue box and was with all the socket wrench tools.
There is a chance when you using those you will torque the bolt's head right off.
Then you will need to drill into the remaining shaft of the bolt and insert one of these
Called an easy out. these will dig into the hole you make and let you turn the bolt out without a head on it.
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts. I got mine again at home depot.
In both cases I recommend a penetrating lube (hee hee)
(lemme tell you I was a little scared to google.image this here at work)
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts store.
I got my at pep boys.
All three of these will not set you back much cash, and in each case you will use them plenty I am sure. Or lend them to friends.
the penetrating lube is good in pretty much all under car parts because of the light surface rust and small crap that gets into everything.
10-13-2006, 02:58 PM
#17
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Re: Rear LCA bolt. Not as easy as you might think. (Targa250R)
ive done 2 different things in this case, heated it and used a pipe wrench. and ive also grinded both ends off (the welded nut, and the head of the bolt) then pried the arm out. good luck
10-13-2006, 03:12 PM
#19
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Re: (cybergreencivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cybergreencivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy aftermarket LCA's. omni's are like $100 shipped at passwordjdm.com. looks good, and saves the hastle. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Old ones still need to be cut out though.
Old ones still need to be cut out though.
10-13-2006, 03:57 PM
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Re: (MonkeyPuzzle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyPuzzle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem on the same bolt when doign my rear disc swap. Stripped the bolt head, so I got these.
they are called twist sockets. They grip the head an dig in to turn it. You will need a new bolt after this but looks like you need a new bolt anyway.
I bought mine from home depot, $10 or so, came in a small blue box and was with all the socket wrench tools.
There is a chance when you using those you will torque the bolt's head right off.
Then you will need to drill into the remaining shaft of the bolt and insert one of these
Called an easy out. these will dig into the hole you make and let you turn the bolt out without a head on it.
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts. I got mine again at home depot.
In both cases I recommend a penetrating lube (hee hee)
(lemme tell you I was a little scared to google.image this here at work)
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts store.
I got my at pep boys.
All three of these will not set you back much cash, and in each case you will use them plenty I am sure. Or lend them to friends.
the penetrating lube is good in pretty much all under car parts because of the light surface rust and small crap that gets into everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try the Sockets first..
they are called twist sockets. They grip the head an dig in to turn it. You will need a new bolt after this but looks like you need a new bolt anyway.
I bought mine from home depot, $10 or so, came in a small blue box and was with all the socket wrench tools.
There is a chance when you using those you will torque the bolt's head right off.
Then you will need to drill into the remaining shaft of the bolt and insert one of these
Called an easy out. these will dig into the hole you make and let you turn the bolt out without a head on it.
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts. I got mine again at home depot.
In both cases I recommend a penetrating lube (hee hee)
(lemme tell you I was a little scared to google.image this here at work)
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts store.
I got my at pep boys.
All three of these will not set you back much cash, and in each case you will use them plenty I am sure. Or lend them to friends.
the penetrating lube is good in pretty much all under car parts because of the light surface rust and small crap that gets into everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try the Sockets first..
10-13-2006, 04:31 PM
#21
went to home depot and couldnt find the sockets, BUT I did get a 14mm impact socket so that it couldnt shatter, and the bolt just will not budge, I dont think its going to unscrew, can someone please elaborate on what id need to cut it out?
10-13-2006, 07:58 PM
#23
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Re: (MonkeyPuzzle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyPuzzle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a chance when you using those you will torque the bolt's head right off.
Then you will need to drill into the remaining shaft of the bolt and insert one of these
Called an easy out. these will dig into the hole you make and let you turn the bolt out without a head on it.
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts. I got mine again at home depot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't even bother with those. They have their uses, and this is not one of them. When the bolt is seized to the bushing (as in this case), if you can torque it hard enough to shear the head off but not break the stud free, then an easy out is NOT going to get it out. All it will do is break off in the stud, and cause a headache later on if you have to drill through it.
Then you will need to drill into the remaining shaft of the bolt and insert one of these
Called an easy out. these will dig into the hole you make and let you turn the bolt out without a head on it.
Should be able to get this at any hardware or car parts. I got mine again at home depot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't even bother with those. They have their uses, and this is not one of them. When the bolt is seized to the bushing (as in this case), if you can torque it hard enough to shear the head off but not break the stud free, then an easy out is NOT going to get it out. All it will do is break off in the stud, and cause a headache later on if you have to drill through it.
10-13-2006, 09:27 PM
#24
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Re: (SL!M)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SL!M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your going to have to cut it man, if heat and a set of good vice grips or an extractor socket doesnt do it for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
x2
10-13-2006, 09:28 PM
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Re: (MattsGreenEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MattsGreenEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">x2</TD></TR></TABLE>
x3
x3